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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non
waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
patrick mitchel wrote:
a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat You've answered your own questions. Build the boat with the right materials (marine grade ply) and seal it with epoxy. Is the boat sheathed in fiberglass? If not, it should be. The bottom line is that if you build a boat to last, it will. If you build it cheap, you have to regard it as disposable and/or expect to repair it frequently. You can't have it both ways. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
Brian Nystrom wrote:
patrick mitchel wrote: a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat You've answered your own questions. Build the boat with the right materials (marine grade ply) and seal it with epoxy. Is the boat sheathed in fiberglass? If not, it should be. The bottom line is that if you build a boat to last, it will. If you build it cheap, you have to regard it as disposable and/or expect to repair it frequently. You can't have it both ways. You may also want to check the manufacturers data with regards to thinning epoxy. Most of them say don't do it. |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
cavelamb himself wrote:
Brian Nystrom wrote: patrick mitchel wrote: a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat You've answered your own questions. Build the boat with the right materials (marine grade ply) and seal it with epoxy. Is the boat sheathed in fiberglass? If not, it should be. The bottom line is that if you build a boat to last, it will. If you build it cheap, you have to regard it as disposable and/or expect to repair it frequently. You can't have it both ways. You may also want to check the manufacturers data with regards to thinning epoxy. Most of them say don't do it. My understanding is that thinning epoxy just makes it porous when it cures, as the evaporating solvent leaves behind passages in the epoxy. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
Brian Nystrom wrote:
cavelamb himself wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: patrick mitchel wrote: a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat You've answered your own questions. Build the boat with the right materials (marine grade ply) and seal it with epoxy. Is the boat sheathed in fiberglass? If not, it should be. The bottom line is that if you build a boat to last, it will. If you build it cheap, you have to regard it as disposable and/or expect to repair it frequently. You can't have it both ways. You may also want to check the manufacturers data with regards to thinning epoxy. Most of them say don't do it. My understanding is that thinning epoxy just makes it porous when it cures, as the evaporating solvent leaves behind passages in the epoxy. I'd guess that you could thin epoxy with about 10% (max) solvent by volume without much of a problem. It wouldn't surprise me if the reason manufacturers don't advocate much more than this is primarily because the environmental police would come after them for releasing to much solvent vapor. Boden |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
I'd seal the end grain with acrylicexterior latex paint.
Best stuff. On Jun 8, 10:46*am, Boden wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: cavelamb himself wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: patrick mitchel wrote: a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure *to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional *splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem *(considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat You've answered your own questions. Build the boat with the right materials (marine grade ply) and seal it with epoxy. Is the boat sheathed in fiberglass? If not, it should be. The bottom line is that if you build a boat to last, it will. If you build it cheap, you have to regard it as disposable and/or expect to repair it frequently. You can't have it both ways. You may also want to check the manufacturers data with regards to thinning epoxy. *Most of them say don't do it. My understanding is that thinning epoxy just makes it porous when it cures, as the evaporating solvent leaves behind passages in the epoxy. I'd guess that you could thin epoxy with about 10% (max) solvent by volume without much of a problem. It wouldn't surprise me if the reason manufacturers don't advocate much more than this is primarily because the environmental police would come after them for releasing to much solvent vapor. Boden |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
You did answer your own questions. Recognizing that marine ply is not
in the budget you will have to accept that the ply may not last as long but 10 years ain't bad. I agree that it would be best to put a layer of glass on, doesn't have to be heavy but it will give a lot of increase in strength. System Three and I believe that West has a thin penetrating epoxy. There is also a product out there I believe CPES that is a thinned epoxy. In talking with the folks at System Three their product has more solids and no solvents and still penetrates as well. It is best to put a good coat or two of epoxy on any ply end grain on a boat. Have fun. Bria |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
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#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
patrick mitchel wrote:
a stitch and glue kayak made from lauan ply (the cheap doorskin/non waterproof). Kept under cover in the mild southern california coastal climes. Showing delam in the areas where the ply has extensive exposure to end grain (cockpit coaming, hatches). Also occasional splits on the sides where impacts have occurred and allowed to open a bit. What's the best strategy to keep splitting to a minimum (yeah, I know, marine grade ply. Aint gonna happen- not in the budget.) When building the boat might the best strategy have been a couple layers of thinned epoxy to penetrate the end grain and flat surfaces given me a better chance of not having to deal with this fairly minor problem (considering the age of the boat is approaching 10 yr old) It was fun to build the boats and the one that spent the majority of it's life in a garage looks a lot better in the splitting dept (or the lack of splits). Thanks Pat Begs the question. Did you also glass the seams for strength? I don't see it splitting on the edge if the edges are glassed. |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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sealing plywood end grain?
Here's what "I" would do... I'd clean up the delam with my orbital sander
and round off the edges a bit (glass doesn't like sharp edges). I'd then apply epoxy to the ends and let it set. Then, I'd sand it to rough it up and then wrap the ends with fiberglass 'tape'. Doesn't have to be fancy. The 'bondo' CLOTH (not mat) from wal-mart will work fine. Cut it into strips (It's actually one of my favorite glasses because it wets well and is very strong.) Cut it into strips and wrap your delam areas. Then, after that sets, build up the epoxy a bit on those areas with another coat or two so it's good and sealed. The strength of the glass should prevent minor dings and it will help keep the area sealed. If you're trying to keep costs down, you can use the 'bondo' polyester resin that they also sell at wal-mart. I'm not sure about it's UV resistance and from what I've heard, it's not good for structure because it has a tendency to 'creep', but for sealing your end grain, it should work just fine. (I'm sure I'll catch flak for that bit of advice, but if you're wanting to do it on the cheap and you're not concerned about appearance, that's the route I'd go.) Make sure you rough up the areas you're gluing to so it holds. You can't get a chemical bond so you're going to have to rely on a physical bond. Oh, and I agree with the other fellas. I wouldn't try to thin the epoxy. I tried it once and it just came out bad. If you want the epoxy thinner, warm it up. I use a heat lamp about 12" from my epoxy jug. But if you heat it, be sure to use small batches because it'll set up quicker. Hope this helps. Good luck. Ron |
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