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Hi, Wayne, and thanks for the lengthy response.
Wayne.B wrote: There has been a big ongoing debate on one of the trawler lists regarding this question. Most engine manufacturers, including Cummings and Cat, are recommending 10 micron elements in the Racors followed by a 2 micron engine mounted filter. Since the engine mounted filter is frequently much more difficult to change, some have advocated 2 micron elements in the Racors on the assumption that the engine mounted filters would then last more or less indefinitely. The manufacturers have countered that the engine mounted filter should be changed on its recommended schedule regardless. I have come full circle and gone back to 10 micron elements in the Racors. Although you sound like you've done all the right things, I'd offer one word of caution. Fuel problems often do not occur until the boat starts moving around and stirs up sediment accumulated in the bottom of the tank. This is almost impossible to address with dock side polishing so I'd recommend extra filter and vacuum guage vigilance the first few times you go out, especially in rough conditions. If you can run your polishing system while underway in rough conditions, that should speed the cleaning process. Don't forget to use a good fuel conditioner in the recommended quantities. I've been using mostly Biobor and it seems to work. I'd commented many times privately, but forgot to include it in my note here, that I was hoping for some really snotty sailing in our sea trials, during which time the polisher would be running all the time, for just that reason. As little as it draws, likely I'll be running it non-stop during nearly any of our sailing. Unlike another poster in one of the threads I researched, I'll not have it connected to the ignition but rather maintain the ability to control it separately, but expect to have it operating any time the engine's turning, as the alternator will keep up with whatever draw is happening. Regarding your other question on filter changes and filling the Racor cannister with fuel; it depends on the boat. If your tanks are below the level of the Racors, then you will need some way of topping off the filters after you change out the element. On my boat the tanks are higher so it is not a problem. I just crack open the inlet valve while watching the fuel level in the cannister. My filters are about 2' above the tank, unfortunately. Thus the question about using the priming pump as filler. Certainly, it would suck the fuel, if the top was closed - but I don't know if that would just leave some air in the top, or if that air would be sucked into the system. With the priming pump before the filters, I could fill the canisters before closing them, and *then* do the prime sequence if needed. Of course, if I'm changing by just shutting/changing the valve, going to the other filter, the lines would stay full, and the only thing I'd be dealing with would be the racors. I *do* have the polishing filters equipped with drain valves, so could draw fuel from those to fill the Racor in question. However, I'd have to hope I got the right amount, so I wouldn't have to deal with any excess or shortage. Hm. Looks like I'll be re-mounting the pump upstream of the Racors... Or, any reason not to?? More "hmmm..." - perhaps I could put a line on the end of the 10micron polishing filter valve, mounted above the Racors (see the November gallery) and use that as my fill medium. That might solve both problems... Thanks... L8R Skip, back to the engine room in the cold rainy weather (had to put on jeans, today!) Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery! Follow us at http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog and/or http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
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