A similar thing happened to me.
My problem was that the polyester resin was too old.
I then purchased a quart of polyester resin at our local auto body store and
the result turned out to be acceptable.
Now I have to dispose of 3/4 gallon of out dated polyester resin.
Epoxy is always a good choice for that type of work. The first saturating
coat of epoxy should be thinned out first for better penetration. Then
after sanding a second coat of epoxy should be applied. I like to use a
third coat of epoxy before painting.
Seats are exposed to more sun, rain and snow and good UV protection is
required. Interlux Brightsides is a good choice. However, I think it was
blended and mean for indirect exposure of the elements. Years of
observation have let me to believed that UV coating like Epifane or its
equivalent are lasting longer on exposed seats. This is more so on
inflatable floor board

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:xwyMg.766$OI1.454@trnddc05...
mrmagneto wrote:
My Coronado needs new seats in the cockpit so I lavished some time
on creating them with 5/8 in. marine ply with birch sides. They
turnd out well. My plan: 2 coats of polyester resin, then prime,
then 2 coats Interlux Brightsides to match the newly painted boat.

First coat of resin went well for a first-timer. Working outside,
dry weather, 75-80 deg. F. Applied with roller and brush. Set up
well.

Second coat- rushed a bit and either got not enough hardener in or
did not mix well enough. Anyway, this coat refused to "kick off"
properly. It has remained tacky for 10 days.

I tested putting on another coat with extra hardener, but it also
has many tacky sections. I'm concerned that the paint will not
adhere properly.

Right now I'm brushing on acetone to strip it. Is this my only
choice? Is there anyway to get the resin to harden?

Put on a coat of finishing resin rather than laminating
resin...finishing resin has wax in it so the air can't get to the
resin which is why it is tacky (as it is supposed to be).


--

dadiOH
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