Fiberglass Question
Hi
This is my first boat My plans for the boat I'm building state to use 2 lengths of 60" wide fiberglass for the outer hull and have the overlap across the keel for extra strength. The hull is 64" from gunwhale to keel to gunwhale. Do I lay both layers down at once or do I lay one down at a time. If I lay one down at a time what do I do about the 4" of hull that wont be covered from the first layer Thanks in advance Peter |
Fiberglass Question
Burly Pete wrote: Hi This is my first boat My plans for the boat I'm building state to use 2 lengths of 60" wide fiberglass for the outer hull and have the overlap across the keel for extra strength. The hull is 64" from gunwhale to keel to gunwhale. Do I lay both layers down at once or do I lay one down at a time. Hi- You don't say what weight of cloth you will be using, and that will make a difference. If you are using 6oz cloth you shouldn't have much problem wetting out two layers at once if you are patient and using a slow resin. Sometimes I have resorted to thinning my epoxy a few percent (not much) to get faster wet-out. It will help if you trim the selvage (edge) which is under the top layer- messier to work with but it will leave less of a 'ridge' showing. What kind of boat are you building? Cheers John |
Fiberglass Question
I'm building a Bear Mountain Rice Lake skiff 13' 9'' I'm using 6 oz fiberglass and West Epoxy 105/207. Being a newbie to fiberglass I would prefer not to adjust my epoxy ratio for fear of having a nightmare experience that I could post Peter |
Fiberglass Question
Burly Pete wrote: I'm building a Bear Mountain Rice Lake skiff 13' 9'' I'm using 6 oz fiberglass and West Epoxy 105/207. Being a newbie to fiberglass I would prefer not to adjust my epoxy ratio for fear of having a nightmare experience that I could post Peter: Don't adjust your epoxy ratio for any reason. Diluting your epoxy after it is mixed with a SMALL amount of solvent is OK- there was some research by WEST that they published in Epoxyworks magazine in the Fall, 1999. See http://epoxyworks.com/indexprojects.html and look for 'thinning epoxy' under the 'Epoxy Techniques' heading. You can also use heat to thin epoxy, though that causes other problems (faster cure, bubbling, etc). It would be best to take some cloth scraps and do a few experiments- a few dollars worth of epoxy in experiments is a good investment. The techniques you will be using for your projects are the same as on a strip canoe (I've built a number). I assume you have Ted Moores' (Bear Mountain) book- it has most of what you need to know. Cheers John |
Fiberglass Question
On that boat, I'd want to end up with a double layer of 6 oz. glass only
over the keel or at most across the bottom. To cover the entire boat with that much glass is unnecessary weight. Also, it won't provide as clear a finish. Cut the two pieces of glass to shape ahead of time and position them on the boat and get the wrinkles out. A little 3M spray adhesive is a big help here. Then, wet out the glass on the boat. Different folks have different methods, but i like to pour a dollop of resin onto the boat and then squeegee it around. The 6" yellow plastic bondo spreaders are good for this. You'll only need a brush for dabbing a few remaining dry spots. I'd mix resin maybe 8 oz. at a time. Try to get the glass fully wet, but not filled, with as little resin as possible. You'll fill it later. Too much resin will allow the glass to float and reveal its wrinkles. Don't thin the resin. That makes it weak and permeable. If the temp. isn't over 80, you'll have plenty of time to do the whole thing in one go. "Burly Pete" wrote in message oups.com... I'm building a Bear Mountain Rice Lake skiff 13' 9'' I'm using 6 oz fiberglass and West Epoxy 105/207. Being a newbie to fiberglass I would prefer not to adjust my epoxy ratio for fear of having a nightmare experience that I could post Peter |
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