Caprail - material
 

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction

Caprail - material
 

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Caprail - material
 

One boat I saw had a glass/resin caprail that was painted a teak color
- from 15-20 ft away it looked like varnished teak - but no
maintenance

On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:32:22 -0400, "Adam" wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction

Caprail - material
 

On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

What about iroko (?sp) . A friend did the deck around his hot tub in it. Said
it cost slightly more than half of what teak would have cost. It looked pretty
much like teak to me and longevity is said to be similar. I'm thinking of
replacing the trashed toerail of one of my boats with it.

JJ


After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction



James Johnson
remove the "dot" from after sail in email address to reply

Caprail - material
 

On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

Pete

Caprail - material
 

peter wrote:
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

No, I said mahogany is harder to steam bend. I can turn air dried white
oak to rubber given enough steam. :-) I try to avoid kiln dried white
oak but it is about twice as expensive as air dried around here. I did
luck up on a few planks of green white oak and dried it in the solar
kill on a 90 day program. It bent great but it is rare around South
Georgia. Mostly red.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Caprail - material
 

Thanks for advice.
I decided to go with tropical mahogany.
In curved area I'm going to use laminated mahogany and white oak
Two colors supposed to look nice.
On straight parts - .25x.25 groove with white oak insert.

What is Oxalic Acid? - in the store of course.
Is it CLR?
Thx
Adam

"peter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

Pete

Caprail - material
 

Oxalic acid is oxalic acid - and labelled as such in specialist paint stores
in this part of the world
DF
"Adam" wrote in message ...
Thanks for advice.
I decided to go with tropical mahogany.
In curved area I'm going to use laminated mahogany and white oak
Two colors supposed to look nice.
On straight parts - .25x.25 groove with white oak insert.

What is Oxalic Acid? - in the store of course.
Is it CLR?
Thx
Adam

"peter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

Pete

Caprail - material
 

Thanks,
I'm in Toronto
Adam
"David Flew" wrote in message
...
Oxalic acid is oxalic acid - and labelled as such in specialist paint
stores
in this part of the world
DF
"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks for advice.
I decided to go with tropical mahogany.
In curved area I'm going to use laminated mahogany and white oak
Two colors supposed to look nice.
On straight parts - .25x.25 groove with white oak insert.

What is Oxalic Acid? - in the store of course.
Is it CLR?
Thx
Adam

"peter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with
both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in
the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull
joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" -
flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

Pete

Caprail - material
 

I've found oxalic acid under the label "Wood Bleach".
"Adam" wrote in message ...
Thanks for advice.
I decided to go with tropical mahogany.
In curved area I'm going to use laminated mahogany and white oak
Two colors supposed to look nice.
On straight parts - .25x.25 groove with white oak insert.

What is Oxalic Acid? - in the store of course.
Is it CLR?
Thx
Adam

"peter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:06:46 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Mahogany is a little harder to steam bend than white oak but still
doable. For some reason the mahogany I bent turned a little dark and
required a lot of sanding to get the color back. The problem with both
is that you have to keep the varnish in very good condition. If any
water gets to the wood it will turn black.

After a lot of anguish I settled for teak but it put a big dent in the
construction kitty.

Adam wrote:

What material could you recommend for caprail - deck to hull joint?

The top part of rail is going to be approximately 4"x0.75" - flatwise

I'm thinking about white oak, mahogany or plastic such as KingStar

How easy is to steam bend mahogany compare to white oak?

Thanks in advance

Adam

(37' Spray under construction


Oxalic acid will get rid of any black if it goes that way, at least on
the mahogany. Oak is a bit more difficult.
I'm surprised that you find oak harder to bend than mahogany, I find
it the other way around, but usually I'm bending european oak, the
grain is a bit wilder. A lot depends on if it was kiln dried and the
speed of kilning.
I've given up trying to bend kiln dried oak now, it's an expensive
way of making firewood.

Pete