Thanks for the advice especially about leaving enough space for a layer
of fairing compounding.

Jay Chan

Ron Magen wrote:
Jay,
I was referring to the Don Casey {hardcover} book. I have no problems with
Gougeon Brothers literature, I just consider them more 'pamphlets'. {They
call them 'manuals'}This is more due to their brevity and physical size
{note the 'punching' so they can be 'filed' in a loose-leaf notebook}.

They do a LOT of work & research. In certain ways they are the pioneers in
the field. However, if you read more of their stuff you will note a lot of
redundancy in the illustrations & text. This is because a lot of 'problems'
have the same 'solution'.

Looking at my comp of 'F'glass Boat Repair . . .' I looks like your looking
at Section 4.2.1 which refers back to Section 3.3. They are talking about
the fiberglass SKIN . . . this is only about 1/8 in thick, at maximum.
{Casey implies about 1in or more} Therefore, if you bevel the edges as shown
there would only be about 1/2 inch, or so, difference between largest &
smallest piece. Follow that with the rest of the outlined technique -
peel-ply, vacuum bagging, {or heavily rolling each layer}, implied
'wet-on-wet' application, etc. - and it really doesn't matter which is put
down first.

What ever you do, allow space for a 'smooth coat' of fairing material, and a
1/32in thick coat of Gelcoat, or paint topcoat to blend in with the rest of
the deck.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

wrote in message
ups.com...
Yes, I have read both West System books and Don Casey's book very
carefully. That's why I discover the difference between their two
approaches. Otherwise, I might not even notice the difference.
SNIP