TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Not exactly, but A is very caustic (basic) and B is a neutralizing
acid. Get extra B when you buy the stuff to neutralize it when you get
it where you don't want it.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Keith,
If you are speaking about 'basic chemistry' {sorry about the pun}, any weak
acid should do. My recommendation for something simple, cheap, and readily
available . . . VINEGAR.

Quickly throw a bucket of water on the spill to dilute it as much as
possible, then toss on some Vinegar and swab the area with a towel, etc.

It's Acidic Acid at a 5 percent dilution. Available at your local
supermarket in GALLON sizes. Really useful stuff . . . I use it for initial
cleaning and mix it with denatured Alcohol for 'holding' epoxy tools. It
also makes a very good weed killer. Not 'systemic', but gets rid of the
'above ground' green part in about 24-hours.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Keith" wrote in message
oups.com...
Not exactly, but A is very caustic (basic) and B is a neutralizing
acid. Get extra B when you buy the stuff to neutralize it when you get
it where you don't want it.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Don't know about Teka....but 'many' teak cleaners prime ingredient is oxalic
acid. Flush with water to remove.
Some two part cleaners have stronger chemicals that can eat away the softer
wood tissue between the growth rings, not a good thing.

...Ken


"Chris" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

http://www.marinetex.com/MSDS%20PAGE...%20Cleaner.pdf


"Chris" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Interesting.

Their "unique" "teak" oil is 1 part linseed oil to 5 or 10 parts paint
thinner:

http://www.marinetex.com/MSDS%20PAGE...Teak%20Oil.pdf

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Chris wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Chris;
Go to the 99 cent store and get a gallon of "Sudsy" Ammonia. Make sure
it is the right stuff. Regular ammonia won't work.

Works as well as Teka, costs nothing, and is gentle on you and the teak.


You're welcome.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B

Part A will dissolve the UV destroyed (grey) surface layer of wood
cells but leave the 'fresh' cells intact. Part B neutralizes part A
..... and the excess part B bleaches the teak.


In article .com,
Chris wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Or, you could just get some Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. Scrub a bit
and rinse. They say to avoid too much contact with fiberglass,
aluminum or paint and other finishes, though I've never had a problem.
Teak comes up clean and fresh.


Rich Hampel wrote:
In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B

Part A will dissolve the UV destroyed (grey) surface layer of wood
cells but leave the 'fresh' cells intact. Part B neutralizes part A
.... and the excess part B bleaches the teak.


In article .com,
Chris wrote:


Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Coudn't find it...

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Thanks for all the answers!
Next time I will try the paint store.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Rich Hampel wrote:
In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B
[...]

Where does this come from? I have constantly seen references to rapid
skin absorption of oxalic acid. Yet as a professional in the chemical
engineering field, I have never seen any literature referring to that
property (and here I am not talking to the "chemicals are evil" scare
literature, cf. http://www.dhmo.org for a parody). At worst, oxalic
acid is listed as a skin irritant. I grant you that it is a powerful
systemic poison - when ingested.


bob

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

RW Salnick writes:

Where does this come from?

No use starting a rhubarb over this.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Now thats funny.



In article , Richard J
Kinch wrote:

RW Salnick writes:

Where does this come from?

No use starting a rhubarb over this.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

I have no idea what the answer to your question is and to further show my
ignorance:
Isn't DHMO the industrial cleaning agent that was reported to have curative
effects for arthritis while causing garlic breath?
BF


"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
Rich Hampel wrote:
In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B
[...]

Where does this come from? I have constantly seen references to rapid
skin absorption of oxalic acid. Yet as a professional in the chemical
engineering field, I have never seen any literature referring to that
property (and here I am not talking to the "chemicals are evil" scare
literature, cf. http://www.dhmo.org for a parody). At worst, oxalic
acid is listed as a skin irritant. I grant you that it is a powerful
systemic poison - when ingested.


bob

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

BF wrote:
I have no idea what the answer to your question is and to further show my
ignorance:
Isn't DHMO the industrial cleaning agent that was reported to have curative
effects for arthritis while causing garlic breath?
BF


"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...

Rich Hampel wrote:

In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B

[...]

Where does this come from? I have constantly seen references to rapid
skin absorption of oxalic acid. Yet as a professional in the chemical
engineering field, I have never seen any literature referring to that
property (and here I am not talking to the "chemicals are evil" scare
literature, cf. http://www.dhmo.org for a parody). At worst, oxalic
acid is listed as a skin irritant. I grant you that it is a powerful
systemic poison - when ingested.


I think you may be confusing DHMO (DiHydrogenMonoxide) with DMSO
(DiMethylSulphoxide).

bob

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

Chris wrote:
Coudn't find it...

Go look again. I buy it there all the time.

The brand name is "Goodwins." It says, "For Cleaner Laundry" across the top.

TEKA Teak Cleaner - What is in it?
 

In article .com,
"Chris" wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

The answers are in Bruce van Sant's "The Gentleman's Guide to Passages
South, The Thornless Path to Windward."

Of COURSE I could give the answers (from the top of my head), but I
believe you'll get quite a bit more out of that book that will serve you
well.

Before others respond that he's a "do as I say, not as I do" type of
guy: It doesn't matter as he gives HOPE to many, and there are a bunch
of great tips for the inexperienced. He's not inexperienced, so the
rules differ for him and those who have experience.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/