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Stevenson Minicup
Got little done this weekend. The nerve of my wife thinking Mothers
Day takes precedence. However, did a little fairing of epoxy on #1 and put one side on #2. Bought a wood plane and shaped the daggerboard of #1. Am now leaning toward polytarp sails because I cannot get Tyvek in great enough width and am not sure of joining pieces. |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message om... Got little done this weekend. The nerve of my wife thinking Mothers Day takes precedence. However, did a little fairing of epoxy on #1 and put one side on #2. Bought a wood plane and shaped the daggerboard of #1. Am now leaning toward polytarp sails because I cannot get Tyvek in great enough width and am not sure of joining pieces. I keep finding air bubbles under the fibreglas I applied to the edges so I keep grinding them out and filling them with epoxy. The fibreglas seems to have been a mistake because the adhesion of the fibreglas resin to the wood is very poor. Found that the rudder boxes I made are twisted so I cut them apart and reglued them between two cement blocks so they cannot twist. No progress on #2 yesterday. For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. At any rate, for a diameter of 2.375" and wall thickness of 1/16" vs a diameter of 2" and wall thickness of 1/8", I get a weight ratio of 1.6X. The reccomended numbers result in a total spar weight of about 20 lbs while for my tubing I get 33 lbs. How significant is this? Now, not all the weight is at the top and to get an approximation I estimate the weight is centered about 6' up. At a 30 degree angle of heel, this gives a torque of 98 foot-pounds X sin(30) = 49 foot-lbs. difference between my tubing and reccomended. This means my 100 lb son must sit about .5 foot further out to balance it (I do not multiply by sin(30) cuz I assume he can adjust his body while leaning out to make his weight vector perpendicular to the axis.). Being 187 lbs, I would have to sit about 4" further out. Sorry bout all this stuff, but bein an engineer/physics person, I just luv calculating stuff. Thanks fer yer help |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... Got little done this weekend. The nerve of my wife thinking Mothers Day takes precedence. However, did a little fairing of epoxy on #1 and put one side on #2. Bought a wood plane and shaped the daggerboard of #1. Am now leaning toward polytarp sails because I cannot get Tyvek in great enough width and am not sure of joining pieces. I keep finding air bubbles under the fibreglas I applied to the edges so I keep grinding them out and filling them with epoxy. The fibreglas seems to have been a mistake because the adhesion of the fibreglas resin to the wood is very poor. Found that the rudder boxes I made are twisted so I cut them apart and reglued them between two cement blocks so they cannot twist. No progress on #2 yesterday. For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. At any rate, for a diameter of 2.375" and wall thickness of 1/16" vs a diameter of 2" and wall thickness of 1/8", I get a weight ratio of 1.6X. The reccomended numbers result in a total spar weight of about 20 lbs while for my tubing I get 33 lbs. How significant is this? Now, not all the weight is at the top and to get an approximation I estimate the weight is centered about 6' up. At a 30 degree angle of heel, this gives a torque of 98 foot-pounds X sin(30) = 49 foot-lbs. difference between my tubing and reccomended. This means my 100 lb son must sit about .5 foot further out to balance it (I do not multiply by sin(30) cuz I assume he can adjust his body while leaning out to make his weight vector perpendicular to the axis.). Being 187 lbs, I would have to sit about 4" further out. Sorry bout all this stuff, but bein an engineer/physics person, I just luv calculating stuff. Thanks fer yer help Got the first coat of primer on #1. Got rudder box installed. I like the barrel bolt idea. 4 coats of poly on rudder and centerboard. Put mast in place and made shims for it. Assembled rigging and raised it (without sail). Although theory says the weight of my 1/8" wall tubing is ok, I am a little worried it is too heavy for my kids. Will try it and see. Bought a polytarp for a sail. No progress on #2. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... Got little done this weekend. The nerve of my wife thinking Mothers Day takes precedence. However, did a little fairing of epoxy on #1 and put one side on #2. Bought a wood plane and shaped the daggerboard of #1. Am now leaning toward polytarp sails because I cannot get Tyvek in great enough width and am not sure of joining pieces. I keep finding air bubbles under the fibreglas I applied to the edges so I keep grinding them out and filling them with epoxy. The fibreglas seems to have been a mistake because the adhesion of the fibreglas resin to the wood is very poor. Found that the rudder boxes I made are twisted so I cut them apart and reglued them between two cement blocks so they cannot twist. No progress on #2 yesterday. For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. At any rate, for a diameter of 2.375" and wall thickness of 1/16" vs a diameter of 2" and wall thickness of 1/8", I get a weight ratio of 1.6X. The reccomended numbers result in a total spar weight of about 20 lbs while for my tubing I get 33 lbs. How significant is this? Now, not all the weight is at the top and to get an approximation I estimate the weight is centered about 6' up. At a 30 degree angle of heel, this gives a torque of 98 foot-pounds X sin(30) = 49 foot-lbs. difference between my tubing and reccomended. This means my 100 lb son must sit about .5 foot further out to balance it (I do not multiply by sin(30) cuz I assume he can adjust his body while leaning out to make his weight vector perpendicular to the axis.). Being 187 lbs, I would have to sit about 4" further out. Sorry bout all this stuff, but bein an engineer/physics person, I just luv calculating stuff. Thanks fer yer help Got the first coat of primer on #1. Got rudder box installed. I like the barrel bolt idea. 4 coats of poly on rudder and centerboard. Put mast in place and made shims for it. Assembled rigging and raised it (without sail). Although theory says the weight of my 1/8" wall tubing is ok, I am a little worried it is too heavy for my kids. Will try it and see. Bought a polytarp for a sail. No progress on #2. Painted deck with white paint with anti-skid. I will paint over the white with fluorescent green spray paint. The anti-skid is nice because it covers a lot of uneveness from my mistakes. Sides will be a darker green. Finally managed to obtain visqueen in 12' widths 6 mils thick so will use it for sails. Installed all rigging and observed how big the sail will be, IT IS HUGE. Am considering installing a "Topping Lift" to hold up the aft end of the boom to take some stress off the sail, all I need is a double pulley on the mast, another cleat on the mast, an eye on the end of the boom and some more line. Went with 5/16" line because it is easier ont he hands than 1/4". I am a little worried about the screws holding the barrel bolts to ther transom and am considering fastening a larger plywood plate tot eh transom with the barrel bolts bolted to it from behind. |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
(bookieb) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, US should immediately go metric. I am tired of converting from one bizarre set of units such as carats/acre-yard into lbs/cubic foot. It amazes me that ppl put up with this nonsense. Although I am a Southern redneck american (note capitalization on Southern but not on american), I strongly urge the adoption of metric. Do all calculations in MKS system (meters, Kilograms, Coulombs, Amperes, Joules, etc) and you will never have to convert in the middle of a calculation. I mean hp?, what is that in a real unit like Watts (1 Watt =1 joule-sec)? The so-called English system makes me want to express all power units in something like Mt-FN (Megaton-Fortnights). Back to boats: The hdwre store reccomended spray painting, BIG MISTAKE. Will return unused spray cans this afternoon. I got worried about the little screws holding the rudder assembly to transom via the barrel bolts and have decided to bolt the barrel bolts to a larger plywood plate (about 8.5"x9"x3/8") with #8 nuts and bolts and then glue and screw this plate to the transom. I did order the lighter weight spars. When I realized this project was really running up a bill, I decided to tear up all receipts immediately so I will never know how much these "Cheap" boats have really cost me. bookieb. |
Stevenson Minicup
(bookieb) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. Made my first sail. I am glad I used visqueen because the first attempt was botched. Yielded a serviceable "back-up" sail but I will make another. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. Made my first sail. I am glad I used visqueen because the first attempt was botched. Yielded a serviceable "back-up" sail but I will make another. LAUNCH OF #1 TOMMOROW. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. Made my first sail. I am glad I used visqueen because the first attempt was botched. Yielded a serviceable "back-up" sail but I will make another. LAUNCH OF #1 TOMMOROW. SUCCESS!!! Put her on the top of my truck (not a practical means of transport) and hauled her to Shell Pt, FL, south of Tallahassee. Had 15 kts of wind and rigging while in chop and wind was difficult but got it done. Sail kept slipping down the gaff and boom so really had only about 2/3 sail but SHE FLIES. Tacks well, handles well, really great. Slight prob is that the tiller keeps coming out of the box. Tiller and rudder box seem a little wimpy as they were both bending under the load. Christened her as "Tadpole" and she really swims. She does sorta need coamings as water does come over the bow in chop but I had a bailer handy. My 13 yr old son took her out and had problems as he really didnt understand "jibing" and turned her over twice. I found that standing on the daggerboard will right her slowly. He eventually learned how to jibe and to sail her through a tack and he was seriously impressed. Got the sail adjusted better and my wife and I took her out and she handles beautifully. Shell Pt has lots of oysters on the shore so she did get a little banged up as expected but it was worth it. She did get a little water in her fwd compartment somehow so I will have to drill holes. Carrying her to and from the water was a problem so I will have to build a cart and I also need a trailer for her and #2 I am very impressed. |
Stevenson Minicup
"Parallax" wrote in message
om... SUCCESS!!! Put her on the top of my truck (not a practical means of transport) and hauled her to Shell Pt, FL, south of Tallahassee. Had 15 kts of wind and rigging while in chop and wind was difficult but got it done. Sail kept slipping down the gaff and boom so really had only about 2/3 sail but SHE FLIES. Tacks well, handles well, really great. Slight prob is that the tiller keeps coming out of the box. Tiller and rudder box seem a little wimpy as they were both bending under the load. Christened her as "Tadpole" and she really swims. She does sorta need coamings as water does come over the bow in chop but I had a bailer handy. My 13 yr old son took her out and had problems as he really didnt understand "jibing" and turned her over twice. I found that standing on the daggerboard will right her slowly. He eventually learned how to jibe and to sail her through a tack and he was seriously impressed. Got the sail adjusted better and my wife and I took her out and she handles beautifully. Shell Pt has lots of oysters on the shore so she did get a little banged up as expected but it was worth it. She did get a little water in her fwd compartment somehow so I will have to drill holes. Carrying her to and from the water was a problem so I will have to build a cart and I also need a trailer for her and #2 I am very impressed. Congratulations! You've built that boat in an amazingly short time and should be proud of your accomplishments. I agree about the tiller and rudder box, that's one of the reasons I re-built mine. BTW - for transporting the boat from my Jeep to the water, I built a small dolly out of PVC pipe and it's worked quite well for me - there's some pictures on my web-site if you're interested. -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca |
Stevenson Minicup
Parallax wrote:
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. Made my first sail. I am glad I used visqueen because the first attempt was botched. Yielded a serviceable "back-up" sail but I will make another. LAUNCH OF #1 TOMMOROW. SUCCESS!!! Put her on the top of my truck (not a practical means of transport) and hauled her to Shell Pt, FL, south of Tallahassee. Had 15 kts of wind and rigging while in chop and wind was difficult but got it done. Sail kept slipping down the gaff and boom so really had only about 2/3 sail but SHE FLIES. Tacks well, handles well, really great. Slight prob is that the tiller keeps coming out of the box. Tiller and rudder box seem a little wimpy as they were both bending under the load. Christened her as "Tadpole" and she really swims. She does sorta need coamings as water does come over the bow in chop but I had a bailer handy. My 13 yr old son took her out and had problems as he really didnt understand "jibing" and turned her over twice. I found that standing on the daggerboard will right her slowly. He eventually learned how to jibe and to sail her through a tack and he was seriously impressed. Got the sail adjusted better and my wife and I took her out and she handles beautifully. Shell Pt has lots of oysters on the shore so she did get a little banged up as expected but it was worth it. She did get a little water in her fwd compartment somehow so I will have to drill holes. Carrying her to and from the water was a problem so I will have to build a cart and I also need a trailer for her and #2 I am very impressed. Thanks for sharing your build process. It's been a great post that I have looked forward to reading. -- _______m___õ¿~___m_________________________ "Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away". --George Carlin-- |
Stevenson Minicup
"Andrew Butchart" wrote in message . ..
"Parallax" wrote in message om... SUCCESS!!! Put her on the top of my truck (not a practical means of transport) and hauled her to Shell Pt, FL, south of Tallahassee. Had 15 kts of wind and rigging while in chop and wind was difficult but got it done. Sail kept slipping down the gaff and boom so really had only about 2/3 sail but SHE FLIES. Tacks well, handles well, really great. Slight prob is that the tiller keeps coming out of the box. Tiller and rudder box seem a little wimpy as they were both bending under the load. Christened her as "Tadpole" and she really swims. She does sorta need coamings as water does come over the bow in chop but I had a bailer handy. My 13 yr old son took her out and had problems as he really didnt understand "jibing" and turned her over twice. I found that standing on the daggerboard will right her slowly. He eventually learned how to jibe and to sail her through a tack and he was seriously impressed. Got the sail adjusted better and my wife and I took her out and she handles beautifully. Shell Pt has lots of oysters on the shore so she did get a little banged up as expected but it was worth it. She did get a little water in her fwd compartment somehow so I will have to drill holes. Carrying her to and from the water was a problem so I will have to build a cart and I also need a trailer for her and #2 I am very impressed. Congratulations! You've built that boat in an amazingly short time and should be proud of your accomplishments. I agree about the tiller and rudder box, that's one of the reasons I re-built mine. BTW - for transporting the boat from my Jeep to the water, I built a small dolly out of PVC pipe and it's worked quite well for me - there's some pictures on my web-site if you're interested. Thanks Andrew. I'll have to check over your web site again for the dolly. Once again, I thank you for your help and posting the plans. Gawd was it fun. I'll try to get some pics this next weekend at St. Joseph State park on the coast. I think I will use a small bungee wrapped round the tiller and box extension to hold the tiller down but still allow it to "kick up". More ppl should do this. If I can build a boat, anybody can. Glued the sides on #2. |
Stevenson Minicup
____m___~¿Ô___m____ wrote in message ...
Parallax wrote: (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip For Bookie B. You sure do things the hard way. Do ALL calculations in metric and then convert to english units in the end. This avoids the craziness of converting ounces to pounds and feet to furlongs etc. snip The 55% heavier I came up with is close enough to your 60% as makes no odds, so I didn't screw up completely (or else we both did :-). Yep, use Metric units all the time, esp. since even I can divide and multiply by 10/100/1000 without too many mistakes. In this group though, I think most readers are from the US, and are more familiar with Imperial/US units, so that's what I try and use. Regards, bookieb. OOOps, my metric tirade swhut down my brain. I mean 1 watt =1Joule/sec and I meant Mt/FN. Made my first sail. I am glad I used visqueen because the first attempt was botched. Yielded a serviceable "back-up" sail but I will make another. LAUNCH OF #1 TOMMOROW. SUCCESS!!! Put her on the top of my truck (not a practical means of transport) and hauled her to Shell Pt, FL, south of Tallahassee. Had 15 kts of wind and rigging while in chop and wind was difficult but got it done. Sail kept slipping down the gaff and boom so really had only about 2/3 sail but SHE FLIES. Tacks well, handles well, really great. Slight prob is that the tiller keeps coming out of the box. Tiller and rudder box seem a little wimpy as they were both bending under the load. Christened her as "Tadpole" and she really swims. She does sorta need coamings as water does come over the bow in chop but I had a bailer handy. My 13 yr old son took her out and had problems as he really didnt understand "jibing" and turned her over twice. I found that standing on the daggerboard will right her slowly. He eventually learned how to jibe and to sail her through a tack and he was seriously impressed. Got the sail adjusted better and my wife and I took her out and she handles beautifully. Shell Pt has lots of oysters on the shore so she did get a little banged up as expected but it was worth it. She did get a little water in her fwd compartment somehow so I will have to drill holes. Carrying her to and from the water was a problem so I will have to build a cart and I also need a trailer for her and #2 I am very impressed. Thanks for sharing your build process. It's been a great post that I have looked forward to reading. I will try to get some pics this next weekend. |
Stevenson Minicup
____m___~¿Ô___m____ wrote in message ...
Parallax wrote: (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip BTW, I used the 1/8" wall X 2" OD material for the mast but used .050" wall X 2" for the gaff and boom. Seems to work well. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
I will try to get some pics this next weekend. When you get your pictures you might want to email them to Stevenson Projects - they have a web site that they (eventually) will post them to. And since the plans come from them, they like to hear about successful launches. Andrew Butchart |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message om...
____m___~¿Ô___m____ wrote in message ... Parallax wrote: (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip BTW, I used the 1/8" wall X 2" OD material for the mast but used .050" wall X 2" for the gaff and boom. Seems to work well. Got transom installed on #2. BTW, instead of using duct tape for my sail, I used the double sided glass reinforced carpet tape at the seams. Since the adhesive surface area is larger, it should hold better. I used single sided glass reinforced carpet tape to reinforce high stress areas such as around the pulleys on the boom. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message om... ____m___~¿Ô___m____ wrote in message ... Parallax wrote: (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip BTW, I used the 1/8" wall X 2" OD material for the mast but used .050" wall X 2" for the gaff and boom. Seems to work well. Got transom installed on #2. BTW, instead of using duct tape for my sail, I used the double sided glass reinforced carpet tape at the seams. Since the adhesive surface area is larger, it should hold better. I used single sided glass reinforced carpet tape to reinforce high stress areas such as around the pulleys on the boom. Past two days of rain have really slowed down #2. I have no sheltered area to work on them and was fortunate on #1 to have an historically long period with no rain. Every day, I would have to wait till the dew dried before working, now I have to wait till the rain dries but now we will have regular afternoon showers, hmmmm. Worked on #2 daggerboard. |
Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... ____m___~¿Ô___m____ wrote in message ... Parallax wrote: (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message snip BTW, I used the 1/8" wall X 2" OD material for the mast but used .050" wall X 2" for the gaff and boom. Seems to work well. Got transom installed on #2. BTW, instead of using duct tape for my sail, I used the double sided glass reinforced carpet tape at the seams. Since the adhesive surface area is larger, it should hold better. I used single sided glass reinforced carpet tape to reinforce high stress areas such as around the pulleys on the boom. Past two days of rain have really slowed down #2. I have no sheltered area to work on them and was fortunate on #1 to have an historically long period with no rain. Every day, I would have to wait till the dew dried before working, now I have to wait till the rain dries but now we will have regular afternoon showers, hmmmm. Worked on #2 daggerboard. Events seem to be conspiring to keep me from getting much done. Rain every afternoon. A birthday party on Saturday, a block party on Sunday. My wife in hospital for hysterectomy. I thought that when I was not visiting her and not working or helping the kids, I could get in a few minutes this afternoon. Instead, my 17 yr old daughter backs over my wifes 15 yr old deaf and blind Golden Retriever. At first I thought she had a broken back and was ready to do what had to be done but tried to get her out from under the car with a sheet of ply. Suddenly, she comes around, acts confused. Took her to vet and he says she may be ok, amazing. However, I did get the rudder and tiller for #2 cut out. Am having a few probs with upper side stringers on #2. The sides were bowed so much the stringer broke. I plan to glue the stringer back to correct shape and have slit the side from top to bottom so I can bend the edges to meet the stringer. I will have to glass this slit but thats ok. #1 (Tadpole) had a lot of use over Memorial day weekend and had a little damage. I dropped her about 1' onto a concrete block and put a gash in her bottom, a little glass and she is fixed. No progress on the trailer yet. |
Stevenson Minicup
Parallax says:
Events seem to be conspiring to keep me from getting much done. Time to get on that mountain bike and go find some dirt - change of pace, kinda thing... Steve "AM-B refugee" |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
ospam (Stephen Baker) wrote in message ... Parallax says: Events seem to be conspiring to keep me from getting much done. Time to get on that mountain bike and go find some dirt - change of pace, kinda thing... Steve "AM-B refugee" I liked mountain biking but found that arthritis in my wrists and elbows (aggravated by years of caving) made it difficult to hold the handlebars through more than 15 minutes of rough trails. 48 yrs isnt really not THAT old. Unfortunately, the old Golden Retriever had to be "put down" as the vet felt she would never recover due to being so old. Fortunately, my wife had been released from the hospital so we sorta managed to have her hobble into the vets office to say goodbye. Managed to put some glue on upper stringers of #2. Began reinforcing the rudder box of #1 by extending its sides to also better hold the tiller so it cant jump out. It was easier to simply add another layer of 1/4" ply to the upper part of the tiller box than to make another box with thicker sides. Substantial progress on #2. The upper stringers just were not going to work with the radical bowing of the sides so I had totake off the sides from the bow back to the cockpit. Forced the stringers to follow the correct curve and fastend them at the bow. Made 3 vertical cuts in each side from top to bottom stringer to allow the sides to follow the stringer. Made reinforcements to go on the inside of the sides on the cuts. FINALLY, am at the point of sealing the inside and painting the inside. I have decided that the construction directions represent an IDEAL that can rarely be achieved in practice (at least for me). In order to get it done, I attempt to follow the directions and try several times. Finally, it may be necessary to find a "work around". My experience on #1 shows that this works. On #2, I am trying not to use any fibreglas because it caused about a week of finishing problems on #1 by having bubbles underneath. Fortunately, I have gotten away from the "Gorilla Glue" and am using only epoxy now which gives me a lot of confidence. A little progress on the trailer. The $139 trailer from Northern Tool arrived with NO directions so I follow a process of elimination; eliminating most of the incorrect ways to assemble. Rain is causing problems for me as I have to wait for the boat to dry when I forget to cover it. Serious heat (+95 degrees and high humidity) but working on the boat is helping me with my yearly acclimatization to the heat. |
Stevenson Minicup
Parallax says:
I liked mountain biking but found that arthritis in my wrists and elbows (aggravated by years of caving) made it difficult to hold the handlebars through more than 15 minutes of rough trails. 48 yrs isnt really not THAT old. Yeah, the wrists can be a pain (pun intended). And 48 definitely ISN'T that old, I'm 49 and still manage to ride a fair amount. Unfortunately, the old Golden Retriever had to be "put down" Condolences. Fortunately, my wife had been released from the hospital so we sorta managed to have her hobble into the vets office to say goodbye. Dang! If I had known you had so much going on I would never have tried to wax funny about the mountain-biking thing. FINALLY, am at the point of sealing the inside and painting the inside. There you go! Grats. Steve |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
Parallax says:
snip Also remembered that failure to properly countersink some screws on the hull caused substantial delays in the finishing of #1 so I spent several hours removing most screws countersinking more and replacing to make sure they were really below the surface on #2. ahhhhhh..... my favourite problem (as in the one I do most often) I don't feel alone any more ;-) I do find, however, that it is only really a problem in hardwoods, since I usually underdrill the holes at the same time, making it inevitable that the head shears off when I try to back it out to increase the 'sink. Steve "now you know why I design 'em, not build 'em..." |
Stevenson Minicup
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Stevenson Minicup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
ospam (Stephen Baker) wrote in message ... Parallax says: snip Also remembered that failure to properly countersink some screws on the hull caused substantial delays in the finishing of #1 so I spent several hours removing most screws countersinking more and replacing to make sure they were really below the surface on #2. ahhhhhh..... my favourite problem (as in the one I do most often) I don't feel alone any more ;-) I do find, however, that it is only really a problem in hardwoods, since I usually underdrill the holes at the same time, making it inevitable that the head shears off when I try to back it out to increase the 'sink. Steve "now you know why I design 'em, not build 'em..." More progress on #2. Got rear deck glued and screwed on. Forward deck was screwed on for fitting purposes. I found that wet ply (it has been raining every day) bends FAR easier than dry. I dont seem to have enough floatation peanuts and milk jugs and soft drink containers to fill the bow. Hmmmm... More progress on trailer but the dimensions given on the internet for the Northern Tool site are wrong. It is NOT 4' wide but is only about 3.5' wide, serious modification needed but I got an idea. Finally got the forward deck glued on #2. By now, I have used several of the West System epoxy thickeners and here is my opinion. The expensive colloidal silica works well, spreads well but is too expensive. The brown higher density thickener works very well, spreads well and is far less expensive than the colloidal silica. The micro-fibers do NOT spread well and leave a layer that is fairly rough. They are almost as cheap as the brown filler but I do not like them. |
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