Aluminum also tends to be a bit "grabby" with the blades. Asside from
the heat, gloves are needed in case the piece gets tossed out of the
machine. I have a nice scar from an unclamped bit of aluminum binding
and getting tossed out of my chop saw. A glove and less cavalire
additude might have prevented this. I clamp well and use gloves when
cutting aluminum.



On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 00:22:43 GMT, "derbyrm"
wrote:

Many years ago, GE had their research lab study the question of lubricating
aluminum. Their conclusion? Iodine might help a little, but nothing really
worked well. Tap Magic, kerosene, lard, etc. will cool the blade, but they
won't provide true lubrication like you'd use between the crankshaft and the
connecting rod bearings of an engine.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Jim and Becky" wrote in message
...
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port
wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"
skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How
much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?

@#@

I use a product called Do -All it has been around for ages works on all
metal cutting applications , drill bits reamers, saw blades etc. It is an
waxy compound you just smear onto cutting tools works wonders.

Ray

"Jim and Becky" wrote in message
...
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port
wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"
skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How
much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?