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#1
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Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using
it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Tailgunner wrote:
Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Brian Nystrom wrote:
Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. Interesting. It's stamped "Ethafoam" on the side. It truly does appear to be closed cell, but I have been wrong before, just ask the wife. I'll take a test piece and soak and see what happens. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Tailgunner wrote:
Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. Interesting. It's stamped "Ethafoam" on the side. It truly does appear to be closed cell, but I have been wrong before, just ask the wife. I'll take a test piece and soak and see what happens. It's expanded polyethylene foam. Most of the cells are not interconnected, but enough are to pose water absorption issues. The large cells in the lighter foams are more likely to have substantial connections than the smaller cells in the denser foams. It also has rather low abrasion resistance and it will compress permanently if you put pressure on it for an extended period of time. It's primarily used as disposable/sacrificial packaging, similar to the way Styrofoam is used, except that Ethaboam can be used to protect much heavier objects. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Brian Nystrom wrote:
Tailgunner wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. Interesting. It's stamped "Ethafoam" on the side. It truly does appear to be closed cell, but I have been wrong before, just ask the wife. I'll take a test piece and soak and see what happens. It's expanded polyethylene foam. Most of the cells are not interconnected, but enough are to pose water absorption issues. The large cells in the lighter foams are more likely to have substantial connections than the smaller cells in the denser foams. It also has rather low abrasion resistance and it will compress permanently if you put pressure on it for an extended period of time. It's primarily used as disposable/sacrificial packaging, similar to the way Styrofoam is used, except that Ethaboam can be used to protect much heavier objects. Thank you for taking the time to answer this. We use it at work to line crates and it seemed to be perfect for what I needed. We have huge sheets of it and I was going to use 2" for a leaning post seat. One last question if you don't mind. Can you suggest something for my application? I made a seat pan for the leaning post I'm building from a piece of 8" PVC that I cut lengthwise and flattened to form a 90. I used a heat blanket and several cinder blocks to achieve this. It worked like a charm. My plan was to glue the ethafoam to the pvc and then wrap it in vinyl. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Tailgunner wrote:
Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. Interesting. It's stamped "Ethafoam" on the side. It truly does appear to be closed cell, but I have been wrong before, just ask the wife. I'll take a test piece and soak and see what happens. It's expanded polyethylene foam. Most of the cells are not interconnected, but enough are to pose water absorption issues. The large cells in the lighter foams are more likely to have substantial connections than the smaller cells in the denser foams. It also has rather low abrasion resistance and it will compress permanently if you put pressure on it for an extended period of time. It's primarily used as disposable/sacrificial packaging, similar to the way Styrofoam is used, except that Ethaboam can be used to protect much heavier objects. Thank you for taking the time to answer this. We use it at work to line crates and it seemed to be perfect for what I needed. We have huge sheets of it and I was going to use 2" for a leaning post seat. One last question if you don't mind. Can you suggest something for my application? I made a seat pan for the leaning post I'm building from a piece of 8" PVC that I cut lengthwise and flattened to form a 90. I used a heat blanket and several cinder blocks to achieve this. It worked like a charm. My plan was to glue the ethafoam to the pvc and then wrap it in vinyl. If the question is about gluing, it's very difficult to glue Ethafoam, since it's polyethylene. In packaging, it's typically fused together with heat (hot air or hot wire). If it fits the surface well, so that there will be minimal tension in the glue joint, contact cement or an adhesive/sealant like Lexel, 4200/5200 or one of the GOOP product should do the job. If the foam must be bent to conform to the PVC, you'll probably need some form of mechanical fastening in order to keep it in place long-term. If you're wrapping it around a post, I would suggest spiral wrapping it with tape before covering it with the vinyl. This might actually be a "legitimate" use for duct tape. ;-) |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Brian Nystrom wrote:
Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. One last question if you don't mind. Can you suggest something for my application? I made a seat pan for the leaning post I'm building from a piece of 8" PVC that I cut lengthwise and flattened to form a 90. I used a heat blanket and several cinder blocks to achieve this. It worked like a charm. My plan was to glue the ethafoam to the pvc and then wrap it in vinyl. If the question is about gluing, it's very difficult to glue Ethafoam, since it's polyethylene. In packaging, it's typically fused together with heat (hot air or hot wire). If it fits the surface well, so that there will be minimal tension in the glue joint, contact cement or an adhesive/sealant like Lexel, 4200/5200 or one of the GOOP product should do the job. If the foam must be bent to conform to the PVC, you'll probably need some form of mechanical fastening in order to keep it in place long-term. If you're wrapping it around a post, I would suggest spiral wrapping it with tape before covering it with the vinyl. This might actually be a "legitimate" use for duct tape. ;-) Actually I was wondering what is a better foam to use. It sounds like this ethafoam might turn into a sponge over time. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Tailgunner wrote:
Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. One last question if you don't mind. Can you suggest something for my application? I made a seat pan for the leaning post I'm building from a piece of 8" PVC that I cut lengthwise and flattened to form a 90. I used a heat blanket and several cinder blocks to achieve this. It worked like a charm. My plan was to glue the ethafoam to the pvc and then wrap it in vinyl. If the question is about gluing, it's very difficult to glue Ethafoam, since it's polyethylene. In packaging, it's typically fused together with heat (hot air or hot wire). If it fits the surface well, so that there will be minimal tension in the glue joint, contact cement or an adhesive/sealant like Lexel, 4200/5200 or one of the GOOP product should do the job. If the foam must be bent to conform to the PVC, you'll probably need some form of mechanical fastening in order to keep it in place long-term. If you're wrapping it around a post, I would suggest spiral wrapping it with tape before covering it with the vinyl. This might actually be a "legitimate" use for duct tape. ;-) Actually I was wondering what is a better foam to use. It sounds like this ethafoam might turn into a sponge over time. For the application you're contemplating, that's probably not the case, but why take the chance? Something like Minicel foam would be a better bet. It's microcellular, closed-cell polyethylene foam thats commonly used for bulkheads, seats and padding in kayaks. It works well in wet environments and although it's still polyethylene, it's much easier to glue than Ethafoam, using the products mentioned above. It's also easy to shape with Surform tools and sanders. If you want to see some examples of it, you can peruse my Webshots albums on kayak outfitting at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Brian Nystrom wrote:
Tailgunner wrote: Brian Nystrom wrote: Tailgunner wrote: Anybody use this in a marine environment? How does it hold up? I'm using it for a leaning post seat covered in vinyl. Ethafoam is not closed-cell and depending on the density you use, it can absorb quite a bit of water. The lower the density, the more this is an issue. The 2# and to some degree the 4# density are not well suited to a wet environment. The heavier 6# and 9# densities don't absorb as much. The difference is due to the smaller pores on the denser foams. One last question if you don't mind. Can you suggest something for my application? I made a seat pan for the leaning post I'm building from a piece of 8" PVC that I cut lengthwise and flattened to form a 90. I used a heat blanket and several cinder blocks to achieve this. It worked like a charm. My plan was to glue the ethafoam to the pvc and then wrap it in vinyl. If the question is about gluing, it's very difficult to glue Ethafoam, since it's polyethylene. In packaging, it's typically fused together with heat (hot air or hot wire). If it fits the surface well, so that there will be minimal tension in the glue joint, contact cement or an adhesive/sealant like Lexel, 4200/5200 or one of the GOOP product should do the job. If the foam must be bent to conform to the PVC, you'll probably need some form of mechanical fastening in order to keep it in place long-term. If you're wrapping it around a post, I would suggest spiral wrapping it with tape before covering it with the vinyl. This might actually be a "legitimate" use for duct tape. ;-) Actually I was wondering what is a better foam to use. It sounds like this ethafoam might turn into a sponge over time. For the application you're contemplating, that's probably not the case, but why take the chance? Something like Minicel foam would be a better bet. It's microcellular, closed-cell polyethylene foam thats commonly used for bulkheads, seats and padding in kayaks. It works well in wet environments and although it's still polyethylene, it's much easier to glue than Ethafoam, using the products mentioned above. It's also easy to shape with Surform tools and sanders. If you want to see some examples of it, you can peruse my Webshots albums on kayak outfitting at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg Thanks Brian. Looks like Minicel is the way to go. I'll order some today. Here is what I've done thus far: http://nbrigham.com/Nix/Leanpost/Mockup.html |
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