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Ed March 12th 04 01:30 AM

Removing nicopress and swag fittings
 
The cables look great but the thimbles on all of my stays need replacing.
Any suggestions on removing nicopress and swag fittings?



JayCeeCG March 12th 04 12:49 PM

Removing nicopress and swag fittings
 
You are going to have to cut them off...sorry. You could try using norseman
style fittings as a replacement. you probably shouldn't be using nicropress on
your shrouds anyway.

IMO

Jared

Any suggestions on removing nicopress and swag fittings?




Steve March 12th 04 04:04 PM

Removing nicopress and swag fittings
 
In my experience using NicoPress for "emergency" or temporary rigging, the
only way to get the compressed sleeve off is to cut it lengthwise.. This is
difficult to do with a hack saw, but a die gringer with thin metal cutting
wheel will work..

However, before you do this, you should realize that the 1X19 wire bundle
will be crushed and deformed inside the sleeve. I've never tried it but I
think it would be nearly impossible to get this mangled mess back into a new
sleeve. Even if the strands could be guided back into a new sleeve, the
strength of the standing part of the wire would be diminished by the second
application of this crushing force, when swaging.

Solution, cut the wire just above the swag, and install Sta-Lok's or
Norsman. Or have a rigging shop put termial eyes on..

If your have lost too much length, you could use a toggle to make up the
difference.

Many have stated that NicoPress sleeves are not appropriate for standing
rigging on a boat and I will have to agree.. However, I have had two older
boats that were rigged with stainless and nicopress and I they both are
still sailing today, 40 years later with that same rigging. Not doing any
major offshore passes but survive the routine loads of coastal and
Caribbean sailing..

In fact, there have been an occasion where I made up temporary running
backstays and ultimately just left them, never replaced them.

I think the primary objection to NicoPress is the crushing of the standing
part of the wire under the swag. Additionally the load from the turnbuckle
pin to the shroud is out of line, thus causing an additional bending force
in the area of the swag. (sorry I don't know the correct terms here, no a
mechancal engineer.) How about out of plane or non-coplanar?


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions




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