I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer? I should remove the cracked
resin, shouldn't I? It's falling off in squarish chunks and doesn't
look very safe. Also, on one side the outer layer of glass is
seperating from the hull and I peeled most of it off. It's cool to add
one layer of just resin, then a layer of glass fabric and then a
gelcoat to make it smooth, right? I mean. that should be ok for a
canoe that won't be under power other than paddles. Shouldn't it?
I don't want to get a few miles from the car downstream this summer
and have it come apart on me. If I cover it good like I described it
won't matter what the underlying hull is like as long as it's strong,
or is that line of thinking going to get me soaked?

But will the resin ruin my planer if I use it to remove all the old
resin off of the keel board that runs down the center. And that gets a
layer of fiberglass mat when I reglass it so rocks won't ruin it, if I
remember right. Hope I do.

Am I fixing to have a bad boating day when I get finished with this
thing?

Search on fiberglas repair and planer

denny

I cannot picture the size of the area you intent to flatten on your canoe.
When I repair my dinghy and also the lead keel on my sailboat I use a 14 " body file mounted on a Adjustable Body File Holder. You can purchase this at any auto body supply shop or borrow one.
As for your power planer you may want to try it on a small area first. Some sailboat builders have use power planer with carbine blades to remove damages fibreglass caused by osmosis on the bottom of the hull with success. This operation requires the right safety equipment and I do not recommend it for a small canoe (16'-0") In my case the Body File works well and gives me more control. At time I have use a wood chisel and gouge to remove lumps. Then I use a coarse grit open coat sand paper and gradually work to finer grits.


"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message ...
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer? I should remove the cracked
resin, shouldn't I? It's falling off in squarish chunks and doesn't
look very safe. Also, on one side the outer layer of glass is
seperating from the hull and I peeled most of it off. It's cool to add
one layer of just resin, then a layer of glass fabric and then a
gelcoat to make it smooth, right? I mean. that should be ok for a
canoe that won't be under power other than paddles. Shouldn't it?
I don't want to get a few miles from the car downstream this summer
and have it come apart on me. If I cover it good like I described it
won't matter what the underlying hull is like as long as it's strong,
or is that line of thinking going to get me soaked?

But will the resin ruin my planer if I use it to remove all the old
resin off of the keel board that runs down the center. And that gets a
layer of fiberglass mat when I reglass it so rocks won't ruin it, if I
remember right. Hope I do.

Am I fixing to have a bad boating day when I get finished with this
thing?

"Ookie Wonderslug" skrev i en meddelelse
...
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the

Can`t answer any of your other questions without seeing the canoe, as far as
the power planer is concerned, it will certainly blunt the blades to use it
on resin- esp. if there`s glass included. A 4" angle grinder with a flex
disc is a better bet IMO.
HTH
Bob Larder

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer?


HI .

Do not use an planer on anything but wood. Fiberglass is extremely
detrimental to any type of metal tool. Best bet use an coarse bodyshop type
sanding disc on an angle grinder. Control of this type tool is very crucial
as damage to life and limb can occur not to mention extreme gouging of work
piece. All loose uv . damaged material must be removed before repair can
be started. Good luck.

Rey

There are two West System booklets which would be a better place for you to get guidance. Titles a
002-970 Wooden Boat Restoration & Repair and
002-550 Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance
They're $3.00 each. Your local boat stuff shop might have 'em or thay can be ordered from the usual places.

Put the planer away until you've read them.


"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message ...
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer? I should remove the cracked
resin, shouldn't I? It's falling off in squarish chunks and doesn't
look very safe. Also, on one side the outer layer of glass is
seperating from the hull and I peeled most of it off. It's cool to add
one layer of just resin, then a layer of glass fabric and then a
gelcoat to make it smooth, right? I mean. that should be ok for a
canoe that won't be under power other than paddles. Shouldn't it?
I don't want to get a few miles from the car downstream this summer
and have it come apart on me. If I cover it good like I described it
won't matter what the underlying hull is like as long as it's strong,
or is that line of thinking going to get me soaked?

But will the resin ruin my planer if I use it to remove all the old
resin off of the keel board that runs down the center. And that gets a
layer of fiberglass mat when I reglass it so rocks won't ruin it, if I
remember right. Hope I do.

Am I fixing to have a bad boating day when I get finished with this
thing?

On Wed, 1 Mar 2006 08:51:50 -0800, "Robert or Karen Swarts"
wrote:

I've used a 3 x 18 belt sander to remove damaged fiberglass very
successfully on two different hulls. I would be very hesitant about using
the planer on 'glass.

BS



Thanks for the advice. I reckon I won't be using my planer on my
canoe. I'd hate to ruin the blade on it. I guess it's back to the old
belt sander.

Sometimes slow is the only way to do it I guess.

Ookie Wonderslug wrote:
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer?

I don't recommend it. I'd look at using a scary-sharp chisel, and a
good file/rasp for removing the old fiberglass. I've also read, but
never tried using a heat gun.

Basically, expect to use a lot of elbow grease and patience.

I should remove the cracked resin, shouldn't I?

Ideally, Yes.

It's falling off in squarish chunks and doesn't
look very safe. Also, on one side the outer layer of glass is
seperating from the hull and I peeled most of it off. It's cool to add
one layer of just resin, then a layer of glass fabric and then a
gelcoat to make it smooth, right?

That's the basics to fiberglassing. I do this on all me wooden canoes
and kayaks. Try doing it like this instead. Lay the fibreglass down
dry, and pour your epoxy onto the cloth and work it into the weave, to
saturate the cloth and attach it to the canoe. Put a second coat of
expoxy down to fill the weave. Use a 3rd coat to build it up a bit
above the weave, so you can sand it smooth before putting on a
gelcoat/varnish. This is how I fiberglass wooden boats.

Don't forget to read your epoxy manual closely. It'll indicate how long
to wait between coats. If you wait too long, you have to sand, and you
want to avoid this. There is a window where you can add a 2nd coat to
curing epoxy and the 2 coats will chemically bond. This is much
preferred to the physical bond achieved if the 1st coat is fully cured
and had to be sanded.

Fiberglass will eat a planer blade in no time and you have little control of
how much gets removed. The best way to remove a lot of glass is with an
angle grinder and a 40 grit flap wheel. The flat kind that looks more like
a regular grinding wheel. You can dig into the cracks and feather the
edges very easily.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I have a canoe that I am reworking. It's got a few holes in it and the
keel board has chunks of fiberglass missing and deep cracks in the
resin. Has anyone used a power planer on fiberglass as a way of
removing it? Did it ruin your planer? I should remove the cracked
resin, shouldn't I? It's falling off in squarish chunks and doesn't
look very safe. Also, on one side the outer layer of glass is
seperating from the hull and I peeled most of it off. It's cool to add
one layer of just resin, then a layer of glass fabric and then a
gelcoat to make it smooth, right? I mean. that should be ok for a
canoe that won't be under power other than paddles. Shouldn't it?
I don't want to get a few miles from the car downstream this summer
and have it come apart on me. If I cover it good like I described it
won't matter what the underlying hull is like as long as it's strong,
or is that line of thinking going to get me soaked?

But will the resin ruin my planer if I use it to remove all the old
resin off of the keel board that runs down the center. And that gets a
layer of fiberglass mat when I reglass it so rocks won't ruin it, if I
remember right. Hope I do.

Am I fixing to have a bad boating day when I get finished with this
thing?