Shaft Packing
 

I am replacing the hose between the hull and the packing gland and my question
is this. Should I use the wire renforced hose or regular? It sometimes seems
that with wire hose its hard to get the clamps to really tighten down.

Shaft Packing
 

I should be wire reenforce hose.. The wire and extra stiffness is important
to keep the hose from twisting from the tendency of the gland to rotate.

I've seen old rotten hoses twist and rip when someone over tightened the
gland because of excess leaking.. (he actually had a scored shaft that was
causing the leak.)

You should be able to get the hose clamps to tighten down, if you get heavy
duty clamps (two on each end).. Ordinary hose clamps will just strip before
you can get them tight enough. I'd recommend something like the Shields
T-Bolt type.. There over $8 each but well worth the investment in this type
of security.. At least you can tighten until your sure their tight enough
without worrying about them stripping.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Shaft Packing
 

I have hose without wire but it is twice as thick as regular exhaust hose
with the wire.
http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products...g/packing.html

Anyone used this?
I am going to try it.
The price is good, 2 feet for about 20$ for 1/4 inch packing. I like the
dripless idea.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I should be wire reenforce hose.. The wire and extra stiffness is
important
to keep the hose from twisting from the tendency of the gland to rotate.

I've seen old rotten hoses twist and rip when someone over tightened the
gland because of excess leaking.. (he actually had a scored shaft that was
causing the leak.)

You should be able to get the hose clamps to tighten down, if you get
heavy
duty clamps (two on each end).. Ordinary hose clamps will just strip
before
you can get them tight enough. I'd recommend something like the Shields
T-Bolt type.. There over $8 each but well worth the investment in this
type
of security.. At least you can tighten until your sure their tight enough
without worrying about them stripping.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Shaft Packing
 

Scott, I read and reread that ad and I didn't see any spec on what the
material is.. I seem to remember that the "G" stands for graphite and
graphite isn't compatable with salt water and stainless shafts.

In my experience in the US Navy, graphite packing was only used on steam
packing glands because of this problem.

I'm using teflon impregnated packing and have for the last 15 years. No
complaints here. I do an adjustment at the beginning of each season and at
the end, if there is any leakage, more than a drip.. Personally I have no
problem with a little water in the bilge because I have a deep sump and need
to hear the pump start a couple times a day, just for the sake of my
confidence.

With any packing material, you shaft must be smooth in the gland area and
most important, your engine should be properly aligned.. Engine/shaft
alignment needs to be checked after new engine mounts have been in service
for about a season and then about every time you relaunch after being on the
hard. Not that being on the hard would effect it that much but it's just
about the right period of time and a way to make sure the yard didn't effect
it by the way she was blocked.

ABYC has a good section on shaft alignment limits. Don't assume that a flex
coupling eliminates the need for alignment verification.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Shaft Packing
 

+ my 2 cents. any through hull fitting is not the place to scrimp over a
couple of dollars. A ruptured shaft log can cost more than $20 in loss and
damage. Go for the best. please!!!!!!

terry

Shaft Packing
 

I did quite a bit of searching on google looking for experience with the
packing. I found a lot of happy people no one saying it hurt the shaft.
Several talked about the graphite concern but apparantly no one experienced
any corrosion at all. My own shafts are not perfect have a few pits etc...
and the boat has always used the old original flax packing. The dripless
teflon product sold at West Marine is $50 for one shaft, so I would need to
buy two sets. And runs hotter from what I hear on newsgroups than the Gore
packing with graphite. So I am an easy sell on the stuff. Even with the nut
turned off the packing gland, not enough water comes in to overcome the
pumps. Actually when I got the boat both glands were leaking as if there was
no packing installed and the prior owner had no understanding except to
periodically try and tighten it up with a 3 foot pipe wrench!


"Steve" wrote in message
...
Scott, I read and reread that ad and I didn't see any spec on what the
material is.. I seem to remember that the "G" stands for graphite and
graphite isn't compatable with salt water and stainless shafts.

In my experience in the US Navy, graphite packing was only used on steam
packing glands because of this problem.

I'm using teflon impregnated packing and have for the last 15 years. No
complaints here. I do an adjustment at the beginning of each season and at
the end, if there is any leakage, more than a drip.. Personally I have no
problem with a little water in the bilge because I have a deep sump and
need
to hear the pump start a couple times a day, just for the sake of my
confidence.

With any packing material, you shaft must be smooth in the gland area and
most important, your engine should be properly aligned.. Engine/shaft
alignment needs to be checked after new engine mounts have been in service
for about a season and then about every time you relaunch after being on
the
hard. Not that being on the hard would effect it that much but it's just
about the right period of time and a way to make sure the yard didn't
effect
it by the way she was blocked.

ABYC has a good section on shaft alignment limits. Don't assume that a
flex
coupling eliminates the need for alignment verification.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Shaft Packing
 

I use the Goretex packing and LOVE it. Virtually dripless, only adjusted
once after break-in. It never drips at the dock, just lets enough water in
to cool underway.

--


Keith
__
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: Soap, ballot, witness, jury, and
cartridge.
"Scott Downey" wrote in message
...
I have hose without wire but it is twice as thick as regular exhaust hose
with the wire.
http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products...g/packing.html

Anyone used this?
I am going to try it.
The price is good, 2 feet for about 20$ for 1/4 inch packing. I like the
dripless idea.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I should be wire reenforce hose.. The wire and extra stiffness is
important
to keep the hose from twisting from the tendency of the gland to rotate.

I've seen old rotten hoses twist and rip when someone over tightened the
gland because of excess leaking.. (he actually had a scored shaft that
was
causing the leak.)

You should be able to get the hose clamps to tighten down, if you get
heavy
duty clamps (two on each end).. Ordinary hose clamps will just strip
before
you can get them tight enough. I'd recommend something like the Shields
T-Bolt type.. There over $8 each but well worth the investment in this
type
of security.. At least you can tighten until your sure their tight
enough
without worrying about them stripping.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Shaft Packing
 

On 15 Feb 2004 01:14:42 GMT, (Socalsail) wrote:

I am replacing the hose between the hull and the packing gland and my question
is this. Should I use the wire renforced hose or regular? It sometimes seems
that with wire hose its hard to get the clamps to really tighten down.

Buy shaft log hose, no wire, especially for this purpose.

The modern packings have a reputation for burning shafts. I always the
traditional stuff.