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nobody January 31st 06 10:51 PM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
Talk about luck. I had been contemplating the purchase of a 4x8 block
of styrofoam to build a working raft so that I could work on my hull.
Today I walked out to my dock and lo and behold there was a new piece
of styrofoam, just the size I intended to buy. Now I would like to
know if anyone knows of plans or has suggestions of how to turn it
into a work raft. I guess one needs to keep the weight down so the
more I put on it (i.e., a sheet of 4x8 treated plywood on top and
plywood banding around the sides. Someone in this gorup must have
done this. How??? Thanks.

Meindert Sprang February 1st 06 06:50 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
"nobody" wrote in message
...
Talk about luck. I had been contemplating the purchase of a 4x8 block
of styrofoam to build a working raft so that I could work on my hull.
Today I walked out to my dock and lo and behold there was a new piece
of styrofoam, just the size I intended to buy. Now I would like to
know if anyone knows of plans or has suggestions of how to turn it
into a work raft. I guess one needs to keep the weight down so the
more I put on it (i.e., a sheet of 4x8 treated plywood on top and
plywood banding around the sides. Someone in this gorup must have
done this. How??? Thanks.


You don't need to care about wheight to mich, regarding floatation. That
block can carry around 900 kg/2000 lbs before it sinks. So even coating it
with a thin layer of cement, reinforced with some chickenwire, will keep it
floating. Making it a bit heavier will even help stabilizing the platform.
Floating docks are made this way.

Meindert



dennyhugg February 1st 06 09:54 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
Stucco craftsmen use styrofoam to form up window openings, column
decorations, etc. They cover with fibreglass. I've vote for plywood,
since most of how to bond plywood with glass is known.

I made a set of "Jesus boots" once, big long blocks of styrofoam with
horizontal fins on the bottom surface, retracted flush by water
pressure of forward movement. I used fibreglass to seal all surfaces.
The intent was to be able to walk across canals and waterways of the
Louisiana marsh. The fibreglass made the surface quite tough and
ding-resistant.

I will leave that skill to the Master......... I could never keep the
pair close enough together for very long to keep me balanced topside.

Fibreglass and plywood; that's the ticket!

Denny Hugg


Glenn Ashmore February 1st 06 12:20 PM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
If it really is Styrofoam (blue, pink or white) do not use polyester
fiberglass. It will melt the foam. Epoxy is OK but be sure to dry out and
clean the foam first.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"nobody" wrote in message
...
Talk about luck. I had been contemplating the purchase of a 4x8 block
of styrofoam to build a working raft so that I could work on my hull.
Today I walked out to my dock and lo and behold there was a new piece
of styrofoam, just the size I intended to buy. Now I would like to
know if anyone knows of plans or has suggestions of how to turn it
into a work raft. I guess one needs to keep the weight down so the
more I put on it (i.e., a sheet of 4x8 treated plywood on top and
plywood banding around the sides. Someone in this gorup must have
done this. How??? Thanks.




William R. Watt February 1st 06 07:57 PM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
I think floatation is 62.5 lb per cu ft. Small difference between fresh
and salt water. 4x8x0.5 is 16 cu ft or 1,000 lb less the weight of the foam.

Protect the bottom from being chewed up by muskrats or whatever you have
there, if you are leaving it in the water. Chicken wire will do.




[email protected] February 2nd 06 12:29 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
Hi
I build a raft like this once, it was same size as a standard plywood
sheet that covered top and bottom and around the 4 edges I made a frame
in very heavy timber. It was the best small work platform ever. It's
still floating 20 years after but take my advise ; make a heavy
frame,rough dovetail corners ,this not the styrofoam is what make it
work for years. If you compromise and don't make a heavy frame the
thing will last only a few years .
That raft was btw very popular ,small but not to small ,handy and
rugid. ----


Jim Conlin February 2nd 06 12:47 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
If you intend to use this as a work float for topside work, then it's edges
can't be too hostile and might demand fendering. The styrofoam is pretty
good in this respect. For this purpose, I think i'd cut my sheet of plywood
4 to 6" in length and breadth, glue it to the block with a cheap
construction adhesive and call it done.



"nobody" wrote in message
...
Talk about luck. I had been contemplating the purchase of a 4x8 block
of styrofoam to build a working raft so that I could work on my hull.
Today I walked out to my dock and lo and behold there was a new piece
of styrofoam, just the size I intended to buy. Now I would like to
know if anyone knows of plans or has suggestions of how to turn it
into a work raft. I guess one needs to keep the weight down so the
more I put on it (i.e., a sheet of 4x8 treated plywood on top and
plywood banding around the sides. Someone in this gorup must have
done this. How??? Thanks.




nobody February 2nd 06 03:30 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
On Wed, 1 Feb 2006 19:47:53 -0500, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:

If you intend to use this as a work float for topside work, then it's edges
can't be too hostile and might demand fendering. The styrofoam is pretty
good in this respect. For this purpose, I think i'd cut my sheet of plywood
4 to 6" in length and breadth, glue it to the block with a cheap
construction adhesive and call it done.


Is construction adhesive what one should use to stick plywood to
styrofoam? Will it adhere OK. Other question: I will need to mount
cleats on the plywood. Will pressure from these cleats cause the
plywood to separate from the foam??
Thanks

Richard Lamb February 2nd 06 06:35 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
nobody wrote:

On Wed, 1 Feb 2006 19:47:53 -0500, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:


If you intend to use this as a work float for topside work, then it's edges
can't be too hostile and might demand fendering. The styrofoam is pretty
good in this respect. For this purpose, I think i'd cut my sheet of plywood
4 to 6" in length and breadth, glue it to the block with a cheap
construction adhesive and call it done.



Is construction adhesive what one should use to stick plywood to
styrofoam? Will it adhere OK. Other question: I will need to mount
cleats on the plywood. Will pressure from these cleats cause the
plywood to separate from the foam??
Thanks


Anything (and I mean ANYthing) that has any kind of aggressive solvent
will desolve styrofoam before your very eyes.

Carpenters (white?) glue should be ok.

Test on a small sample before selecting an adhesive.

Richard

[email protected] February 2nd 06 10:49 AM

Washed Ashore--A 4'x8'x12" styrofoam block
 
Hi

nobody I prefere to ansver in the group as when you ask for the
measures for the frame around m then what a lot don't realise is, that
in denmark and many of the other "metric" we acturly still use inches
and feet --- in plumbing with timbers we still use inches but we
adabted to the english inch system as we had our own inch but this is
many years ago .

So when you ask for the measures for the perfect small raft with foam
core then it was made from two 22 mm standard plywood sheet one acting
as deck and one as bottom nailed with galvanised boats nails to a frame
that was 3 inch by luck just the hight of two 12 cm, thick foam sheets.
Now you maby wonder why I mix up these measures -- well I have a
metric tape measure with inch measures and metric measures on same tape
and in that way I don't mix uo inches and cm. Anyway I was lucky to
find that 3 inch plank and my best advise are for you to remember to
make the corner assembly , maby not as dovetail but then with strait
dovetails , it is quite easy even you have to make 4 corners , but it
is my experience that it is the heavy and strong frame that make a raft
these measures work so smooth and last so long ---- the raft need to be
both heavy but also offer enough volume ,then I build one just like
that and it served the local comunity and still do for some 20 years
and it have if just the deck are repaired with a new plywood sheet, 20
more years.



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