I know, I know. Why don't you do it the right way up front and save a
bundle?

Well, this is one of those get out of a deal as cheaply as possible and
start over. I need to replace the old (ungalvanized steel) axle on my
father in law's boat trailer so we can sell it ( with full disclosure of its
condition) and possibly start over. The old one lasted many years without
even being rinsed off with fresh water after each use.

Will saturating the replacement axle, springs, u-bolts, spring hangers, etc.
with LPS 3 or something similar be worth the efffort? We would like it to
last the next owner longer if possible.

Any other product that might help? No , we don't expect the same longevity
as hot galvanizing.

Would using Rob White's heat the thing up and spray it while hot and then
let it cool method get the protectant any deeper into the spring stack?

Thanks ,
Richard " Trying to help the dad in law get through with his boat
project"

HD sells a galvanizing spray paint for ~5$ a can
Supposed to be zinc metal in a can



"Rich" wrote in message
ink.net...
I know, I know. Why don't you do it the right way up front and save a
bundle?

Well, this is one of those get out of a deal as cheaply as possible and
start over. I need to replace the old (ungalvanized steel) axle on my
father in law's boat trailer so we can sell it ( with full disclosure of
its
condition) and possibly start over. The old one lasted many years without
even being rinsed off with fresh water after each use.

Will saturating the replacement axle, springs, u-bolts, spring hangers,
etc.
with LPS 3 or something similar be worth the efffort? We would like it to
last the next owner longer if possible.

Any other product that might help? No , we don't expect the same
longevity
as hot galvanizing.

Would using Rob White's heat the thing up and spray it while hot and then
let it cool method get the protectant any deeper into the spring stack?

Thanks ,
Richard " Trying to help the dad in law get through with his boat
project"

The interior of tubes in welded fuselages are routinely sprayed with
linseed oil then sealed as far as possible.

A commercial treatment for car underbodies that is no longer available
consisted of wax dissolved in solvent. You can still make this up and
spray or brush it on. Must heat the solvent: can be kerosene, diesel
oil etc in order to dissolve the candle wax in it. Beeswax,
shellac and petrolatum (like vaseline jelly) have been used to make
up Cosmoline style protective greases too.

Regards

Brian


On Mon, 02 Feb 2004 01:18:26 GMT, "Rich"
wrote:

I know, I know. Why don't you do it the right way up front and save a
bundle?

Well, this is one of those get out of a deal as cheaply as possible and
start over. I need to replace the old (ungalvanized steel) axle on my
father in law's boat trailer so we can sell it ( with full disclosure of its
condition) and possibly start over. The old one lasted many years without
even being rinsed off with fresh water after each use.

Will saturating the replacement axle, springs, u-bolts, spring hangers, etc.
with LPS 3 or something similar be worth the efffort? We would like it to
last the next owner longer if possible.

Any other product that might help? No , we don't expect the same longevity
as hot galvanizing.

Would using Rob White's heat the thing up and spray it while hot and then
let it cool method get the protectant any deeper into the spring stack?

Thanks ,
Richard " Trying to help the dad in law get through with his boat
project"

Thanks , both of those sound do-able. Forgot to ask about the junction
between the aluminum trailer frame and the steel spring mounting angle. Can
some thick layer of grease be placed there or should I paint both the Al and
Fe in those locations, then apply one of the mentioned treatments?

Thanks.

On Mon, 02 Feb 2004 07:58:39 GMT, "Rich"
wrote:

Thanks , both of those sound do-able. Forgot to ask about the junction
between the aluminum trailer frame and the steel spring mounting angle. Can
some thick layer of grease be placed there or should I paint both the Al and
Fe in those locations, then apply one of the mentioned treatments?

Thanks.


Junctions of aluminum and mild steel preferentially attack steel.
(Stainless to aluminum junctions prefer the aluminum however)

There are two approaches: isolate the two metals electrically Easier
said than done. Think pressed linen/resin board, or some insulating
plastic of that kind. Bolts need insulating washers etc.,etc.

OR the easier, less satisfactory approach:

Protect the steel surface completely This is a tall order with
leaf-springs, which rub through insulating films easily.
I found floor paint worked well on a steel trailer exposed only to
fresh water. This is very hard non porous, and durable. But it's only
paint, in the end.

Brian W

I have a steel outboard transom bracket in salt water which I painted with
an 2 part epoxy rust paint and it is completely rust free after 3 years so
far. The trick is using many coats, I probably have 5 on it. The paint I use
is called Bar-Rust 235 from Devoe coatings whixh is an ICI company. I have
used it on boat trailers too with excelelnt results. But like I said 1 coat
will rust after a few months, you have to put on at least 4-5 in my opinion.
If there are any parts that may rub or break the paint then use this it is
excellent, for that matter you could just use it on everything instead of
the paint if you are going to sell it. It works very well but has to be
re-applied now and then.

http://www.crcindustries.com/gallery...&box=&shownew=



"Rich" wrote in message
ink.net...
I know, I know. Why don't you do it the right way up front and save a
bundle?

Well, this is one of those get out of a deal as cheaply as possible and
start over. I need to replace the old (ungalvanized steel) axle on my
father in law's boat trailer so we can sell it ( with full disclosure of
its
condition) and possibly start over. The old one lasted many years without
even being rinsed off with fresh water after each use.

Will saturating the replacement axle, springs, u-bolts, spring hangers,
etc.
with LPS 3 or something similar be worth the efffort? We would like it to
last the next owner longer if possible.

Any other product that might help? No , we don't expect the same
longevity
as hot galvanizing.

Would using Rob White's heat the thing up and spray it while hot and then
let it cool method get the protectant any deeper into the spring stack?

Thanks ,
Richard " Trying to help the dad in law get through with his boat
project"




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