Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am
still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820.
It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for removing air
from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if fills with water.
Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working temperature and works to 150
PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little screw so once the system is
purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect
solution. .
--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

I would sure be interested in how this device works out, Glenn. Is it
made of material suitable for marine service (that is, no mild steel, etc?

bob

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am
still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820.
It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for removing air
from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if fills with water.
Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working temperature and works to 150
PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little screw so once the system is
purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect
solution. .

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am
still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820.
It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for removing air
from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if fills with water.
Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working temperature and works to 150
PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little screw so once the system is
purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect
solution.

Thanks for the info, Glenn... I'm going to invest in a few
of these myself!

DSK

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7.
It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal
engine room environment on the closed side of the cooling system it should
be OK. I will dissect it and report back.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
I would sure be interested in how this device works out, Glenn. Is it made
of material suitable for marine service (that is, no mild steel, etc?

bob

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am
still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part #
4A820. It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for
removing air from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if fills
with water. Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working temperature
and works to 150 PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little screw so once
the system is purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks
like the perfect solution. .

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

I did mine differently...

On the engine expansion tank (now no longer the high point in the
system) I installed a 14 lb radiator cap, replacing the 7 lb cap. Then
at the high point in the system (approximately...) I installed a small
expansion tank (from Summit Racing, but could have been from anywhere),
and put the 7 lb cap on it. Air collects in the tank (a little is
necessary to accommodate the expansion when the coolant gets hot), and
the engine expansion tank is now full to the brim.

This cost more than your approach, but it doesn't have any moving parts...

bob



Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7.
It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal
engine room environment on the closed side of the cooling system it should
be OK. I will dissect it and report back.

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

Well, it is brass with a high temp polyethylene float. It has to be mounted
close to vertical to open. I was worried that when the engine cooled and
the pressure dropped it would act as an anti-siphon valve and let air back
into the system but after playing with it that does not seem to be a
problem. I do believe however that after the system is purged it would be
a good idea to close the outlet valve just in case and just open it when I
am changing out the coolant.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:VANBf.13635$Dh.2158@dukeread04...
I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7.
It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal
engine room environment on the closed side of the cooling system it should
be OK. I will dissect it and report back.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
I would sure be interested in how this device works out, Glenn. Is it
made of material suitable for marine service (that is, no mild steel, etc?

bob

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I
am still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part #
4A820. It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for
removing air from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if
fills with water. Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working
temperature and works to 150 PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little
screw so once the system is purged I can seal it off and it is only 3"
high. Looks like the perfect solution. .

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the
radiator cap - it is designed to do that

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Well, it is brass with a high temp polyethylene float. It has to be mounted
close to vertical to open. I was worried that when the engine cooled and
the pressure dropped it would act as an anti-siphon valve and let air back
into the system but after playing with it that does not seem to be a
problem. I do believe however that after the system is purged it would be
a good idea to close the outlet valve just in case and just open it when I
am changing out the coolant.

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the
radiator cap - it is designed to do that

The way I read the shop manual it won't if the overflow tank is set up
right. It will suck the coolant back in that was pushed out as the engine
heated up.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Heater Hose conundrum redux
 

Ah. You have a NEWER engine... Mine is of the older vintage, where the
expansion tank is part of the pressurized cooling system.

However, the secondary expansion tank, located at/near the high point of
your system, with a cap of lower pressure rating would still serve you
well - it will need an overflow tank like your current and conventional
expansion tank. Installation of this tank essentially moves the
functionality of the expansion tank/overflow tank to the high point of
the system where the air can be collected and expelled, while retaining
the existing system as a backup.

It differs from the air bleed valve only in that it uses radiator caps
instead of the bleed valve.


My request for how the air bleed valve works out was motivated by the
concern that it might not work well at the low system pressures of an
engine cooling system (say 7-20 psi).

bob

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...

Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the
radiator cap - it is designed to do that


The way I read the shop manual it won't if the overflow tank is set up
right. It will suck the coolant back in that was pushed out as the engine
heated up.