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Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?
Some very good methods have been sugested which made some good reading.
However, assuming you are using 3/4" ply, these 1/8" reliefs will remove about 1/3rd of the thickness and could(will) creat a stress point where the 1/2" thich relieved section butts to the full 3/4" section of the bulkhead. If this is a sizeable boat, and the bulkheads are tied into members that will introduce sort of a parrellogram like stress ( cabin floors, decks, ect) the working of the stress aforementioned stress point could , over time, delaminate the plys? Anyway, it's just a thought to consider. It would look slick but possibly at a cost. I doubt the such a delamination would have seroius structural consequences, but it might not be pretty. Delamination or not, certainly it would create a good flex point to crack your faired out smooth bulkheads to have cosmetic cracks. ( sorry spellchecker isn't working, got to fix that!) -- Ron White Boat building web address is www.concentric.net/~knotreel |
Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?
The relief near the edge of the bulkhead should taper to zero, as should the
tabbing. Ron White wrote: Some very good methods have been sugested which made some good reading. However, assuming you are using 3/4" ply, these 1/8" reliefs will remove about 1/3rd of the thickness and could(will) creat a stress point where the 1/2" thich relieved section butts to the full 3/4" section of the bulkhead. If this is a sizeable boat, and the bulkheads are tied into members that will introduce sort of a parrellogram like stress ( cabin floors, decks, ect) the working of the stress aforementioned stress point could , over time, delaminate the plys? Anyway, it's just a thought to consider. It would look slick but possibly at a cost. I doubt the such a delamination would have seroius structural consequences, but it might not be pretty. Delamination or not, certainly it would create a good flex point to crack your faired out smooth bulkheads to have cosmetic cracks. ( sorry spellchecker isn't working, got to fix that!) -- Ron White Boat building web address is www.concentric.net/~knotreel |
Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?
Gregg Germain wrote in message
I don't use plywood in my boat building but it's just a wild thought. haven't tried anything like that. Showoff! ;) |
Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?
mike worrall writes:
Imagine a freshly cut-out plywood bulhead lying horizontaly on a table before you. The bulkhead will be attached to, or installed into the fiberglass hull using 'bonding angles' i.e., several layers of 'glass / epoxy that will lap onto both the bulkhead and hull. I'd like to relieve, or remove, about 1/8" of the plywood (face) material all along the edge of the bulkhead (where it will bond to the hull) for (say) 3" from the edge on both sides of the bulkhead. In this way, the 'glass angles will lie flush with the bulhead surface. How do I do this? That is, wat tool(s) would be used for removing the plywood, leaving a clean cut of consistent depth? Lots of ways to do it buy why bother? You are going to be using glass and fairing compound to bond the bulkheads to the hull anyway. The proper size beer bottle to form the fillet is probably of more concern.G BTW, even my smallest bulkhead had to be assembled inside the hull. These bulkheads were constructed using two (2) pieces of 1/2", 4 ply, CDX, temporally screwed together on the layout table to form a blank, some of which were 12 ft x 16 ft, using 4x8 sheets, then laid out using a tick stick and trimmed to size. Finished bulkhead is now disassembled, carried up into the boat, piece by piece, and reassembled using low cost steel deck screws and wood glue. The assembled bulkhead is now located in the hull with blocks that have been temporally attached to the hull with deck screws and tabbed to the hull with scrap glass pieces. (One layer of 24 oz double bias). When cured, the blocks are removed and the rest of the bulkhead is now glassed to the hull. When cured, fairing compound is used to fill all voids between hull and bulkhead and a layer of glass is laid over the compound to form a fillet using said beer bottle on the other side of the bulkhead. When cured, sand down plywood and the glass fillet edges, seal with 2 coats of epoxy, sanding between coats, then laminate two (2) layers of 24 oz double bias glass on each side of the bulkhead. After that, it's time for high build primer followed by LPU. It's working for me. HTH -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?
Backyard Renegade wrote:
: Gregg Germain wrote in message : : I don't use plywood in my boat building but it's just a wild : thought. haven't tried anything like that. : Showoff! ;) Well I just wanted to be honest that I was making a suggestion that I never tried. ;^) --- Gregg "Improvise, adapt, overcome." Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics Phone: (617) 496-1558 |
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