Pls Help Me Choose a Kit!!
 

Thanks for the link Lloyd. She's lovely.

As for the boat, looks like a fun build, and talk about minimal
risk... I'd have to reserve her use for very calm days, as we have a
fair bit of wind and current here on my stretch of the coast, but it
does look like a fun first time boat. Thanks again.


"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message Just for fun (and learning about s&g) you might want to build Gavin Atkins'
"mouseboat". It's 8ft long, costs about $150 and a weekend or two to build, and
the plans are free! I built one for my Lady (who is not "petite") and we're both
amazed at how well the boat handles. Here are some pics:

http://www.user.dccnet.com/lsumpter/Lily/

You can get the plans at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mouseboats/

Lloyd Sumpter
"Far Cove" Catalina 36

Pls Help Me Choose a Kit!!
 

Drew Dalgleish ) writes:

rocker is the amount of curve from end to end. A boat with lots of
rocker is easy to turn but will not track as well as a boat with less
rocker. More rocker is probably going to cause the boat to be slower
as well.

clarification:
that's curve in the bottom of the boat (keel), not the sides. :)

if you set the boat down on a level surface and measure the height of the
stem and transom above the ground, that's the total rocker. its usually
divided in half for the published rocker.

on a dory built boat it works like this:

if you set the two side panels on edge straight up and down and pull the
ends together at bow and stern there is no rocker. when you angle the side
panels out (flare) and bend them together at the bow and stern the ends
come up and you get rocker. the rocker depends only on the angle of flare
and the width of the boat and can be calculated with the sum of squares
rule for right angled triangles (Pythagorous). if you want more or less
rocker for a given angle of flare you have to shave some wood off the
bottom edge of the side panels. that's why dory side panels have a convex
curve cut in the bottom edge, to reduce the amount of rocker for the large
angle of flare on those boats. to adjust the rocker on a simple flat
bottom ("flat iorn") skiff the side panels have an elongated "S" curve cut
in the bottom edge.

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Pls Help Me Choose a Kit!!
 

brad ) writes:

He did mention why he thought the 14 handled better but I'm having
trouble recalling. I think he was implying that the Osprey 13 would
"slide" around more and be harder to turn. He also mentioned
something about one of them having more "rocker" (I think that was the
term he used), but I am not sure which one or even what it means
(something to do with the "upsweep" of the sides???).

the shorter kayaks have a small keel or "skeg" at the back to make them go
straight. the skeg adds more "wetted surface" friction and will slow the
boat down by some small amount.

I'm not a kayak paddler but I've spent some time paddling canoes and small
wierd boats I've made myself. Last summer while hanging around a public
beach for three weeks I had the opportinituy to try and compare 30
different models of kayaks from half a dozen manufacturers. All but a
couple paddled straight even under full power paddling. I thought the
shorter boats would yaw (turn from side to side with each stroke) but they
tracked (kept a stright course) fine. (This opportunity occured because 4
local sporting goods stores were bringing trilers full of canoes and kayaks
to the beach each evening for the general public try out.)

I discussed my impressions on the rec.boats.paddle newsgroup and was
informed by kayak fanatics that the longer narrower boats are more
satisfying to paddle after you learn to balance them.

Every boat is designed with a purpose in mind. For the boating I now do,
exploring small local waterways, a long narrow kayak would not be
appropriate. (the wierd little boats I built are)

If your family is not paddling narrow winding creeks full of obstructions
or running white water rapids then a longer more narrow kayak would be
a good choice.


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