Olympic Cub hull rehab strategy
 

I'm new to this group and working on rehab of a 1964 Olympic Cub 24
foot sloop, red cedar on steam bent oak. I've sistered a couple frames
(laminated) and replaced a couple floor timbers. The hull seams are
wedged with what appears to be fir with the exception of very large
caulked seams on each side of the keel. This appears to be the original
construction. My plan is to fill those two seams with epoxy paste and
sheath over them, then soak the hull interior with one of the thinned
epoxy products to keep moisture from ever entering the cedar planking.
While I have read of this method working I am not fully confident that
moisture will not work into enough cedar to cause expansion and crack
the hull sheathing. The alternative I am considering is to fill the
two large seams with 3M 5200 and bring the sheathing up to their edges,
still coating the interior with epoxy. I would appreciate advise on
methods or products from any voices of experience with sheathing
planked hulls,

I am also looking for anyone who knows anything about the Olympic Cub
and whether any of the type are still sailing.

Brian Hardin

Olympic Cub hull rehab strategy
 

Hi

B. I think it will be a good idea if you could show us a few foto's.
What you plan to do could be wrong or right it is very difficult from
your description to say.
But how long have the boat lasted allready ,maintained without epoxy --
you say that two seames are caulked ; witht what cotton or oucum and
how wide are the seams ?
Are they correctly cauked or is it an amaturs attempt to widen the hull
without knowing the right way to caulk . I think it is perfect with
Epoxy and new wood but I am not sure it realy is the right treadment
,if any "treadment shuld be advised consider how many years it worked
without epoxy, beside epoxy work best if the wood are bone dry -- is it
,can become real dry ?
Now if the seams realy are the result of over caulking , then maby a
routered in and epoxy glued piece of wood are much better and it could
happen that you would be much better off, buying a small hand held
router with copyer flange, --- when you get used to it you proberly can
use that for just any repair, and be able to repair the way these
boats shuld be repaired, the boatsbuilders way.

Olympic Cub hull rehab strategy
 

Don't go near the poor old thing with epoxy or 5200. That'll make later repairs much more difficult.
Post your question to the WoodenBoat forum. There, you'll fine people who understand how not to make the problem worse.


"BrianH" wrote in message oups.com...
I'm new to this group and working on rehab of a 1964 Olympic Cub 24
foot sloop, red cedar on steam bent oak. I've sistered a couple frames
(laminated) and replaced a couple floor timbers. The hull seams are
wedged with what appears to be fir with the exception of very large
caulked seams on each side of the keel. This appears to be the original
construction. My plan is to fill those two seams with epoxy paste and
sheath over them, then soak the hull interior with one of the thinned
epoxy products to keep moisture from ever entering the cedar planking.
While I have read of this method working I am not fully confident that
moisture will not work into enough cedar to cause expansion and crack
the hull sheathing. The alternative I am considering is to fill the
two large seams with 3M 5200 and bring the sheathing up to their edges,
still coating the interior with epoxy. I would appreciate advise on
methods or products from any voices of experience with sheathing
planked hulls,

I am also looking for anyone who knows anything about the Olympic Cub
and whether any of the type are still sailing.

Brian Hardin