"jotis" wrote in message ...
Hello Jim-

Thank you for your very interesting analysis of why it is so difficult to
get much information about cold-molding; it looks like it has become
obsolete. Nevertheless, the process appears to be so fascinating that I hate
to discard the idea altogether.

Frankly, one of the benefits that I perceived with cold-molding was that it
would not require a skin of fiberglass (the very thought of which makes my
skin quiver), but I am coming to realize that and education - and some
experience with - fiberglass is becoming a necessity.

Here is an area I can address in this thread... Oh goody! Anyway, this
should not be a point of anxiety (sp?). With the Epoxy technology and
calibrated pumps, this is only a question of patience and preperation.
The main thing is to prepare the surface properly first. Then cut out
your fiberglass, leaving a couple of inches extra all the way around.
Next roll up one side of the glass and spread a slightly thickened
layer of epoxy in it's place (this can be done easily with a
disposable paint roller). Next roll the glass back over the wet area,
and start to wet out the glass with the same paint roller and a
unthickened layer of epoxy. Next, roll up the other side of the glass,
and do the same thing. Remember, it is a lot easier to draw goo up
through glass than it is to drive it down in. Typically, I apply
probably 75% of the goo I will use in an area, before the fabric is
laid down, then draw it up through the glass. This may seem elementry
to some but I always mention it as it took me close to a year to
figure this out, of course when I did, I felt like a real dolt
Really, using pumps, paint rollers and proper preperation, glassing a
small hull can actually be one of the easiest parts of building a
boat. Did not say most fun, just easiest.
Scotty from SmallBoats.com


There is a good deal of information about strip planking around, and will
reconsider that mode of construction.

Thanks again,

Joseph




"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
The veneer cold-molding process is well documented in the Gougeon book.
(Western red) cedar veneer was the preferred material. Eventually, it was
figured out that the addition of a light fiberglass skinn was needed to
protect
the soft cedar. The strip canoe folks figured out that if there was a
structural glass skin on both sides, multiple layers of wood core weren't
necessary and the skins gave adequate 'thwartship strength. So, for boats
under
thirty feet, cold-molding with veneers has been largely replaced by strip
composite construction. Less labor, cheaper materials, equal product.
That's why it's now hard to find cedar veneers.