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Anchor Pulpit Construction
Hello,
I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
|
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Mine is made from strips of teak maybe 1" x 2" laminated and screwed
together, with the strips oriented vertically. If you have room, I highly suggest making it big enough to hang two anchors from. "orbital" wrote in message om... I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
"orbital" wrote in message om... off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Bare in mind that you many be paying the marina every month for those extra '2-3 feet' .. I have a 38 ft sail boat but pay for a 45ft slip because of the bow sprit and outboard rudder.. For me, that is an extra $35/mo. But I don't have any choice since my boat is designed with a bowsprit.. Steve |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
(orbital) wrote in message . com...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley. I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense. Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer, I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Scotty, Thanks!
This is exactly what I was looking for. This sounds relatively straightforward. Even your ascii diagram of the opposing end grains made sense. I assume from this point, I could cut the finished piece as if it was a solid piece of wood to create any curves or shape I want to add to the front of it. Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? Also, I would like to put a channel down the length of it to accomodate a pair of wires for a nav light. I was thinking I could route a channel on the face of 2 strips before glueing them up. Would this affect the strength greatly? Thanks again for all the info! Good luck with your leaky wall! Rob Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley. I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense. Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer, I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod.
It'll help with the glue-up, too. Backyard Renegade wrote: (orbital) wrote in message . com... I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley. I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense. Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer, I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Jim Conlin wrote in message ...
Scotty says: First off let me state, I have never built such a structure, and do not have any bigger boats, so take my advice for what you pay... I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod. It'll help with the glue-up, too. I dunno, never liked that idea. Always felt I would need to make the whole part thicker to make up for the hole running all the way through. The beauty of such a lay-up it the longitudal (sp?) strength and a hole all the way through puts a lot of hurt to that aspect of the structure. I like to use staggered dowel pins. (This all assumes correst application and preparation for/with epoxy. If other adhesive is to be used, disregard anything I say here.) I tend to over engineer everything (you should see my picnic tables) but I would get a cheap dowling jig or use a drill press and set a pattern of alternating pins. I would start with the end piece and drill three holes on the inside. Next piece would get three holes facing the first, and four on the other side. The piece facing that would get 4 and three, alternating so as to take up the structural deficiencies of the dowels. I would use pre-made and scored hardwood dowels. I don't think you need a shaft all the way through if you use epoxy. If he is worried he could always key in a cross support across the bottom. For a part this size, I would want a finished part of 7/4. He may run a router up the bottom and lay in a conduit for wiring, and shape the part any way he pleases after it is cured. A few more staggered thoughts. In the ascii I "drew" below, the pieces seem wider than tall, this is not going to be the case of course. I would suggest 4/4 thickness planks, cut into 2 inch strips... Mostly aesthetics here, I used to make furniture so take my word for it. Also, when applying the clamps, stagger them too, one on top, one on the bottom and so on, or you will have a smiley part when you are done. I don't see why you could not run a 1/4 inch deep channel with a router under the part for wires, no deeper unless you run it near the edge. If I were going to run it up the middle, I might cut three of my strips 1/4 inch thicker and leave the extra on the bottom. After cutting in the channel, round the edges in a smooth curve to match the bottom. Aft of the area where the part meets the boat, you could just flatten it out and drill a hole in any direction to route the wires out of there. I will try again with that ascii, here is how the part will look from the front: ____________________________________________ | | |______________ ___ _____________| \_____|000|_____/ Scotty Backyard Renegade wrote: (orbital) wrote in message . com... I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley. I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense. Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer, I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Did I specify, I would reccomend a 1 7/8 finished thickness, a little
thicker in the channel area if you choose that option. Scotty |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside pieces to give a finished look without plugs. For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick finished piece is about what I was shooting for. For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it. I hope this makes sense. This is what it would look like from the back with the channel going up the left side. _________________________________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___| top view showiung the path of the wiring channel inside the center of the piece: ___________________________________ / \ / __ \ / light: / \ \ | --------------\__/ | | | -------------- | | || | | || | | || | | || | | || | | || | | || | Thanks Again for all the advice! This is extremely helpfull! Scotty says: First off let me state, I have never built such a structure, and do not have any bigger boats, so take my advice for what you pay... I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod. It'll help with the glue-up, too. I dunno, never liked that idea. Always felt I would need to make the whole part thicker to make up for the hole running all the way through. The beauty of such a lay-up it the longitudal (sp?) strength and a hole all the way through puts a lot of hurt to that aspect of the structure. I like to use staggered dowel pins. (This all assumes correst application and preparation for/with epoxy. If other adhesive is to be used, disregard anything I say here.) I tend to over engineer everything (you should see my picnic tables) but I would get a cheap dowling jig or use a drill press and set a pattern of alternating pins. I would start with the end piece and drill three holes on the inside. Next piece would get three holes facing the first, and four on the other side. The piece facing that would get 4 and three, alternating so as to take up the structural deficiencies of the dowels. I would use pre-made and scored hardwood dowels. I don't think you need a shaft all the way through if you use epoxy. If he is worried he could always key in a cross support across the bottom. For a part this size, I would want a finished part of 7/4. He may run a router up the bottom and lay in a conduit for wiring, and shape the part any way he pleases after it is cured. A few more staggered thoughts. In the ascii I "drew" below, the pieces seem wider than tall, this is not going to be the case of course. I would suggest 4/4 thickness planks, cut into 2 inch strips... Mostly aesthetics here, I used to make furniture so take my word for it. Also, when applying the clamps, stagger them too, one on top, one on the bottom and so on, or you will have a smiley part when you are done. I don't see why you could not run a 1/4 inch deep channel with a router under the part for wires, no deeper unless you run it near the edge. If I were going to run it up the middle, I might cut three of my strips 1/4 inch thicker and leave the extra on the bottom. After cutting in the channel, round the edges in a smooth curve to match the bottom. Aft of the area where the part meets the boat, you could just flatten it out and drill a hole in any direction to route the wires out of there. I will try again with that ascii, here is how the part will look from the front: ____________________________________________ | | |______________ ___ _____________| \_____|000|_____/ Scotty Backyard Renegade wrote: (orbital) wrote in message . com... I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually there is a roller installed through or on them. Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to build myself: http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak. Thanks! Rob Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley. I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense. Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer, I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for a pulpit. I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the strips together. Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring in order to put the nav lights on it. Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "pulpit"? Scotty (orbital) wrote in message . com... Hello, I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
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Anchor Pulpit Construction
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Anchor Pulpit Construction
Jumping in here ...
If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far off track: - The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if anything to the structure. - If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ..I'd use epoxy as described). Brian -- My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message ... On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote: Scotty, Thanks! snip Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? snip Rob snip My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both ends are for alignment. In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak. (If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.) Mark E. Williams |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
PS: You can use a doweling jig that you buy from any wood worker's catalog.
They are not super cheap, but they do give good straight-in alignment and you'll need that if you use pegs. A router and slotting bit can easily be used to create short slots so you can use short splines for the same purpose. In this case, make the splines 'barely fit' so they'll align the wood. You'll have to experiment a little. "Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message ... On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote: Scotty, Thanks! snip Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? snip Rob snip My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both ends are for alignment. In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak. (If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.) Mark E. Williams |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
PPS: Personally, I'd skip dowels and splines. Just buy a nice flat MDF board, put it on a level table, and glue up your strips. Clamp a stiff (not MDF) board over the top of the strips to hold them flat. In strip-built boards, always expect to do some clean up and a little planing afterwards. I've done this by hand with a sharp low-angle block plane, followed by a 220-grit sanding with a good random orbital sander, and it works fine ....very easy. Brian -- My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message ... On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote: Scotty, Thanks! snip Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? snip Rob snip My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both ends are for alignment. In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak. (If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.) Mark E. Williams |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
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Anchor Pulpit Construction
"Brian D" wrote in message news:jSEEb.401321$Dw6.1249548@attbi_s02...
Jumping in here ... If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far off track: - The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if anything to the structure. This is correct and I do suggest a cheap dowling jig from Sears or such, this will allow you to use line things up much easier but like brian said, they are not there for structure. Use them sparingly as I noted in an earlier post, to save time. Scotty |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I was planning on building a slot into the pulpit to accomodate a
roller. I may also mount a stainless plate on the bottom to protect the bottom of the pulpit from the anchor being yanked up into it. What is the issue with using epoxy if I do not seal the entire pulpit? My intention was to most likely not seal it with urethane or epoxy, but to keep it coated with teak oil. Also, I have never heard of resorcinol before now. What is the difference between this and epoxy for this type of use? In terms of using or not using pegs, I guess I was concerned about the pressure and weight of the anchor trying to pull the strips apart vertically. I was thinking that screws or pegs would help keep the pulpit together when these vertical forces are aplied unevenly to particular strips making up the pulpit. Is just the glue up strong enough to keep it all together? Thanks! Rob If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far off track: - The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if anything to the structure. - If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ..I'd use epoxy as described). Brian -- My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message ... On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote: Scotty, Thanks! snip Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? snip Rob snip My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both ends are for alignment. In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak. (If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.) Mark E. Williams |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
The issue with epoxy, as with any virtually waterproof coating, is that
moisture tends to migrate through the wood until it reaches the waterproof barrier. This region tends (then) to carry more moisture and becomes a possible rot risk. If you are *not* going to seal it and keep it completely sealed, then I would not use epoxy as your glue. Do a search on the web for resorcinol, sold under the brand name of GluVit (among others), and see what you find. The question I have is whether or not it bonds with teak well. Either way, if not using epoxy, then I would also recommend mounting with hardware, not gluing. You'll want structural support from gunnel to gunnel as a minimum and then through-bolt with 316 stainless or silicon bronze or better. Make it strong enough to stand on. For making a strip-built pulpit without glue, then you'll have to build it up strip by strip using countersunk boat screws. For these 'buried' screws, use silicon bronze or better (see Jamestown Distributors online). Screws should be offset back and forth as you go so they are not in alignment with each other. This will distribute the load better. Left to my own devices, I'd probably shoot resorcinol in there between the layers as I screw them up, letting the screws be your clamp pressure. On the outside 2 strips, countersink deeper then use a plug cutter to make plugs from your teak. You can glue these in to hide the screw tops and then flush-cut with a Japanese pull saw. When the whole stack is done, expect to at least router and sand. May have to do some planing too, so start thicker and wider than your intended final dimension. Use a low-angle block plane and keep it sharp. The silica in teak takes the edge away quicker than with other woods. If you're a clever guy and would like to do a fancy job, you can route with a 45-degree bit on the top corners of each strip of teak to dress it up a bit. I know you can fill these grooves with black polysulfide to emulate a teak deck, but I've never done it and suspect that it may be hard to do it neatly. The grooves alone would look nice (make sure you clean glue out nicely if you are using it.) When the pulpit is all done and right before installing, then you can oil it in the traditional way ...soak it well where it contacts the boat. Brian -- My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "orbital" wrote in message om... I was planning on building a slot into the pulpit to accomodate a roller. I may also mount a stainless plate on the bottom to protect the bottom of the pulpit from the anchor being yanked up into it. What is the issue with using epoxy if I do not seal the entire pulpit? My intention was to most likely not seal it with urethane or epoxy, but to keep it coated with teak oil. Also, I have never heard of resorcinol before now. What is the difference between this and epoxy for this type of use? In terms of using or not using pegs, I guess I was concerned about the pressure and weight of the anchor trying to pull the strips apart vertically. I was thinking that screws or pegs would help keep the pulpit together when these vertical forces are aplied unevenly to particular strips making up the pulpit. Is just the glue up strong enough to keep it all together? Thanks! Rob If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far off track: - The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if anything to the structure. - If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ...I'd use epoxy as described). Brian -- My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message ... On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote: Scotty, Thanks! snip Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep into the strips should I drill for the pegs? snip Rob snip My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both ends are for alignment. In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak. (If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.) Mark E. Williams |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Brian D wrote:
SNIP Do a search on the web for resorcinol, sold under the brand name of GluVit (among others), SNIP Gluvit is a filled epoxy. Resorcinol is a two-part adhesive which, while quite waterproof, is a bit of a pain to work with. It demands tight fits, high clamping pressure and moderate temperature. It is dark red in color and its glue lines will be visible. |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside pieces to give a finished look without plugs. I am still waiting to see if someone else has comments as to weather pegs and epoxy are suitable for this, I still say epoxy will do the trick if the part is mounted and supported properly. Again, if someone out there knows different, please speak up so this guy does not get real wet and come find me! I know someone suggested going all the way through with rods, but this really has an effect on the strength of the final part. Me too. Another post proposed the posibility of using resorcinol instead of epoxy. I have no idea what this is. He also suggested that no pegs would be necessary, and that I could just use a good flat piece of wood to ensure they clamp up straight. I an still worried that the vertical pressures put on it could sheer the strips from each other if it was just glued up. I definitely dont want to put a rod all the way through. For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick finished piece is about what I was shooting for. I would use store bought, scored pegs so you do not have any glue pressure buildup behind the pegs under pressure. You could drill probably 7/8" into each piece and use 1 1/2" long by 3/8 thick hardwood pegs. Remember, the holes are offset, so it is not like drilling a hole all the way through the part. Isn't 7/8" is going to be real close to going all the way through 4/4? For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it. I hope this makes sense. It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires. Scotty, recovering ascii junkie... I plan on putting a slot in the middle for the anchor and rode to pass through so i cant go straight up the middle. Can I use this method and make an L shape to go up the side and than laterally to the center? Thanks! Rob |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
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Anchor Pulpit Construction
It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the
dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom of the glue holes!!! RichG |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I'm still convinced that cross-bolts are needed here. The several
descriptions in my boatbuilding books of the construction of bow planks all specify cross-bolting. There will be times when this plank is very heavily loaded, like when you run the boat into something large and immoveable and when the boat is on the anchor/mooring in a storm. The Cape Dory 28 is too good a boat to lose to half-baked 'improvements'. Jamestown and others have SS and bronze threaded rod. I'd do maybe one 5/16" cross-bolt per foot of plank length. Counterbore for the ends of the cross-bolts and bung 'em. The rods will be a big help in aligning and clamping the assembly. For appearance, use epoxy, not resorcinol. If securely bolted, a non-impervious finish is OK. If not, moisture will gradually open the glue joints. If you insist and are expecting cross-grain strength from the dowels, don't use the grooved ones. The groove significantly reduce the effective diameter of the dowel. Instead, just plane a flat into the side of the dowel before cutting the dowel up. That'll allow the excell glue and air to exit. The geometry of anchor rollers is sometimes hard to figure out. I suggect that you get the anchor and make a propotype plank with 2x construction lumber to see if the anchor clears the stem by just enough. Have you contacted the builder for his recommendation? Andy Vavelotis now owns Robinhood Marine in Robinhood, ME. Do it right, Jim RG wrote: It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom of the glue holes!!! RichG |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Jim Conlin wrote in message ...
I'm still convinced that cross-bolts are needed here. The several descriptions in my boatbuilding books of the construction of bow planks all specify cross-bolting. There will be times when this plank is very heavily loaded, like when you run the boat into something large and immoveable and when the boat is on the anchor/mooring in a storm. The Cape Dory 28 is too good a boat to lose to half-baked 'improvements'. I will defer on this one to experience. Jamestown and others have SS and bronze threaded rod. I'd do maybe one 5/16" cross-bolt per foot of plank length. Counterbore for the ends of the cross-bolts and bung 'em. The rods will be a big help in aligning and clamping the assembly. For appearance, use epoxy, not resorcinol. If securely bolted, a non-impervious finish is OK. If not, moisture will gradually open the glue joints. If you insist and are expecting cross-grain strength from the dowels, don't use the grooved ones. The groove significantly reduce the effective diameter of the dowel. Instead, just plane a flat into the side of the dowel before cutting the dowel up. That'll allow the excell glue and air to exit. Good idea, but dowels are used for alignment only here, if that is the method he decides on. The geometry of anchor rollers is sometimes hard to figure out. I suggect that you get the anchor and make a propotype plank with 2x construction lumber to see if the anchor clears the stem by just enough. Have you contacted the builder for his recommendation? Andy Vavelotis now owns Robinhood Marine in Robinhood, ME. This is probably the best advice yet... Do it right, Jim RG wrote: It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom of the glue holes!!! RichG |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I'm still convinced that cross-bolts are needed here. The several
descriptions in my boatbuilding books of the construction of bow planks all specify cross-bolting. There will be times when this plank is very heavily loaded, like when you run the boat into something large and immoveable and when the boat is on the anchor/mooring in a storm. The Cape Dory 28 is too good a boat to lose to half-baked 'improvements'. Can you recommend a good book for me to pick up that details the construction of a bow plank or pulpit? I certainly want to do it right. That is exactly why I appealed to this group for advice. Jamestown and others have SS and bronze threaded rod. I'd do maybe one 5/16" cross-bolt per foot of plank length. Counterbore for the ends of the cross-bolts and bung 'em. The rods will be a big help in aligning and clamping the assembly. For appearance, use epoxy, not resorcinol. If securely bolted, a non-impervious finish is OK. If not, moisture will gradually open the glue joints. So, this would mean that I would have to glue up all the pieces in one shot as opposed to a few strips at a time in order to put nuts on the ends of the threaded rods, tighten the nuts and clamp it all? I think I am pretty convinced that Epoxy is the way to go for this. If you insist and are expecting cross-grain strength from the dowels, don't use the grooved ones. The groove significantly reduce the effective diameter of the dowel. Instead, just plane a flat into the side of the dowel before cutting the dowel up. That'll allow the excell glue and air to exit. I have actually had been leaning towards using bronze wood screws to line up and attach the wood pieces while glueing over pegs. I was wondering if this would give the lateral strenght necessary. The geometry of anchor rollers is sometimes hard to figure out. I suggect that you get the anchor and make a propotype plank with 2x construction lumber to see if the anchor clears the stem by just enough. Have you contacted the builder for his recommendation? Andy Vavelotis now owns Robinhood Marine in Robinhood, ME. This is a good idea and I have sent out some emails to see if I can get some feedback from them. Do it right, Jim RG wrote: It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom of the glue holes!!! RichG |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
I have decided to completely forego the light on the tip of the
pulpit. It seems that it will add quite a bit of work to the project regardless of the approach and there is some question as to how it will affect the overall strength of the finished piece. Instead, I will add sidelights to the flybridge. They will improve the visibility in that position as well. It just means that now I have another wiring project to get done this winter. The other thing I am now contemplating is if I should forget about the slot in the pulpit. I was going to use the slot so that the anchor was stowed under the pulpit with the rode coming through the slot and into the windlass. Now I am thinking of using a roller on the top of the end of the pulpit so the anchor rolls of the front and stows up front. Again, this will make the construction easier and keep the acnhor further out from the stem of the boat. It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires. Scotty, recovering ascii junkie... |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
First, a bibliography of boat fix-up books.
Yacht Craftsman's handbook , Garth Graves Boatbuilding, H. Chappelle This old boat, Don Casey Boatbuilding Manual, Robert Steward Sensible Cruising Designs, LF Herreshoff (The how-to-build sections) The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Constuction You'd assemble the thing in one swell foop. Counterbore so the nuts can be covered with bungs, then drill the holes for the cross-bolts a bit oversize. First, assemble it dry , to make sure things are aligned OK. Then, take it apart, cover the room with plastic film, banish the dog, mix your epoxy with a little thickener [WEST #403, milled cotton, 'flox', all the same], anoint all parts liberally with the epoxy mix, assemble it and tighten the nuts only gently. You might also float an inquiry on the message board of the CD 28 powerboat group orbital wrote: I'm still convinced that cross-bolts are needed here. The several descriptions in my boatbuilding books of the construction of bow planks all specify cross-bolting. There will be times when this plank is very heavily loaded, like when you run the boat into something large and immoveable and when the boat is on the anchor/mooring in a storm. The Cape Dory 28 is too good a boat to lose to half-baked 'improvements'. Can you recommend a good book for me to pick up that details the construction of a bow plank or pulpit? I certainly want to do it right. That is exactly why I appealed to this group for advice. Jamestown and others have SS and bronze threaded rod. I'd do maybe one 5/16" cross-bolt per foot of plank length. Counterbore for the ends of the cross-bolts and bung 'em. The rods will be a big help in aligning and clamping the assembly. For appearance, use epoxy, not resorcinol. If securely bolted, a non-impervious finish is OK. If not, moisture will gradually open the glue joints. So, this would mean that I would have to glue up all the pieces in one shot as opposed to a few strips at a time in order to put nuts on the ends of the threaded rods, tighten the nuts and clamp it all? I think I am pretty convinced that Epoxy is the way to go for this. If you insist and are expecting cross-grain strength from the dowels, don't use the grooved ones. The groove significantly reduce the effective diameter of the dowel. Instead, just plane a flat into the side of the dowel before cutting the dowel up. That'll allow the excell glue and air to exit. I have actually had been leaning towards using bronze wood screws to line up and attach the wood pieces while glueing over pegs. I was wondering if this would give the lateral strenght necessary. The geometry of anchor rollers is sometimes hard to figure out. I suggect that you get the anchor and make a propotype plank with 2x construction lumber to see if the anchor clears the stem by just enough. Have you contacted the builder for his recommendation? Andy Vavelotis now owns Robinhood Marine in Robinhood, ME. This is a good idea and I have sent out some emails to see if I can get some feedback from them. Do it right, Jim RG wrote: It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom of the glue holes!!! RichG |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
You want a closed slot or some other hardware to capture the rode at the
roller. Otherwise, any good breeze at anchor will pull your rode off the end of the sprit and hang it on your pulpit rail or stachion. All surfaces the rode may contact need to be smooth (and abrasion resistant). Epoxy deteriorates in UV (sunlight); good tight seams may mitigate this, but OTOH, epoxy likes fat seams. Hence you may want to consider UV protection for your seams, or use some additive in the glue to reduce UV problems. I bolted together a bowsprit this way with epoxy; I use cetol on it to protect it. However, I think 1-1/2" epoxy laminate without rods would be strong enough if the glue-up was done right. Usually epoxy joints are stronger than the wood. Your main issue with simple (proper) glue-up would be delamination due to wood movement (wet/dry, hot/cold, top/bottom). Email West Systems with the approximate specs for the sprit, its roller assembly, and the attachment method on the boat. From what I hear, they're quite helpful. When drilling for "through-bolts", you want a pretty tight hole to maximize lateral support from the rods. You can use a drill to drive the rods in (couple clamping nuts on one end and/or a little dab of epoxy under them). You can use the dowling jig to drill the rod holes - all the way through each piece. You want the countersinks on the outside pieces to be extra large with flat bottoms to accomadate washers. If you drill these countersinks first before drilling the rod holes it'll be easier to center them with the rod holes. You can use a cheap (sharp!) paddle bit; a forester bit would be better if you have one. I used polysulphide to fill the holes rather than bungs because I was using 1/2" rod with 7/8"OD washers and the resulting bungs would have been over 1" - seemed a little flakey. Also, the nuts and washers were more than 1/2" thick and I didn't want to drill the countersink deep enough to accomadate both the nut and a thick bung. Also based on vast past experience g I wasn't sure I wouldn't be back in there someday. The poly "bungs" show, but not too much with the cetol coating. If the anchor sprit gradually narrows at the forward end, you can build the sprit "square", then cut the taper. Calculate how deep to drill your countersinks based on how much the sprit narrows. Grease the rods affected so you can remove them after glue-up and cut the taper into the finished sprit - then reinstall the rods. How you mount the sprit is also worth serious thought. Anchor forces can get pretty large both vertically and horizontally in a blow, with the force catelevered off the bow so it's potentially multiplied several times at the point it's connected to the boat. You can reduce this issue by making the "onboard" end of the sprit as long as feasible. However, you also want to be aware that when you hit something large and immobile with your sprit, _something_ will give - and you probably would rather it not be the hull. You might mount the sprit with bolts on deck which will leave relatively small holes if they rip out, or you can reinforce the hull/deck to the point the the sprit will fail first. Designer type people actually can calculate the fail points for materials, but that's not my area. Rufus orbital wrote: I have decided to completely forego the light on the tip of the pulpit. It seems that it will add quite a bit of work to the project regardless of the approach and there is some question as to how it will affect the overall strength of the finished piece. Instead, I will add sidelights to the flybridge. They will improve the visibility in that position as well. It just means that now I have another wiring project to get done this winter. The other thing I am now contemplating is if I should forget about the slot in the pulpit. I was going to use the slot so that the anchor was stowed under the pulpit with the rode coming through the slot and into the windlass. Now I am thinking of using a roller on the top of the end of the pulpit so the anchor rolls of the front and stows up front. Again, this will make the construction easier and keep the acnhor further out from the stem of the boat. It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires. Scotty, recovering ascii junkie... |
Anchor Pulpit Construction
Oops. Used polyUrethane.
Rufus wrote: .... I used polysulphide to fill the holes rather than bungs because I was using .... |
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