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Terry Spragg November 30th 05 06:33 PM

New portlight foreward.
 

I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can
see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from
below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the
partly opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially
around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in
mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever,
bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need
replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I
have not imagined?

Terry K



John Cassara December 4th 05 01:54 AM

New portlight foreward.
 
Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...

I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K





Jim Conlin December 4th 05 04:22 AM

New portlight foreward.
 
The 5200 may be forever, but the plexi isn't. It'll weather and scratch
over time and will need replacing.

"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...

I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can
see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from
below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the
partly opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially
around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in
mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever,
bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need
replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I
have not imagined?

Terry K





Dan and Donna Happ December 21st 05 12:26 PM

New portlight foreward.
 
John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you
using Translucent Acrylic black?
What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and
the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They
called it 7135 Lexan.

John Cassara wrote:

Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...


I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K











John December 21st 05 07:44 PM

New portlight foreward.
 

not sure if these guys do plexi windows, but they've been around,
might be able to offer suggestions

www.waterwaysystems.com

Sandy


Dan and Donna Happ ) writes:
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John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you
using Translucent Acrylic black?
What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and
the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They
called it 7135 Lexan.

John Cassara wrote:

Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...


I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K










--------------090408060605050702040205
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"
html
head
title/title
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body
John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using
Translucent Acrylic black? br
What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and
the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called
it 7135 Lexan.br
br
John Cassara wrote:br
blockquote type="cite" "
pre wrap=""Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" "<tspr >/a wrote in message
a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" /a...
/pre
blockquote type="cite"
pre wrap=""I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K


/pre
/blockquote
pre wrap=""!----

/pre
/blockquote
br
/body
/html

--------------090408060605050702040205--




Bob December 28th 05 07:37 PM

New portlight foreward.
 

John SandyMacTavish wrote:
not sure if these guys do plexi windows, but they've been around,
might be able to offer suggestions

www.waterwaysystems.com

Sandy


Dan and Donna Happ ) writes:
--------------090408060605050702040205
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you
using Translucent Acrylic black?
What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and
the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They
called it 7135 Lexan.

John Cassara wrote:

Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...


I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K










--------------090408060605050702040205
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"
html
head
title/title
/head
body
John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using
Translucent Acrylic black? br
What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and
the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called
it 7135 Lexan.br
br
John Cassara wrote:br
blockquote type="cite" "
pre wrap=""Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.


"Terry Spragg" a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" "<tspr >/a wrote in message
a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" /a...
/pre
blockquote type="cite"
pre wrap=""I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see
through the cabin whilst seated at the helm.

A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below
counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly
opened fore hatch?

The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the
mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a
hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I
wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too
good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined?

Terry K


Hello
Just finished replacing six 25 year old acrylic Fuller Brush 7"x15"
port lights. The all leaked and were cracked. Why? the house has a
curve to it. So when port started to leak PO cinched them down and they
cracked. Acrylic can not take much of a curve.

Replaced with 3/8" polycarb/Lexan through bolted with 316L ss 1/4"
machine screws. Used a 1/8" 316 trim ring inside and out as a "washer."
Absolutely bullet proof. Lexan bends without cracking.

If your house has a curve do NOT use acrylics/Plexiglas. It will crack,
if not when drilling it, later from stress from the curve of the
house.

When you go the lexan route can not use 5200 like sealants. I used a
Dow Corning product; 791 I think.

Bob


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derbyrm December 28th 05 08:40 PM

New portlight foreward.
 
I agree with your recommendation of Lexan as superior. However, if one is
willing to heat-soften the acrylic then curved surfaces are possible -- see
the many curvaceous aircraft canopies and windshields. My Cessna's
windscreen is over thirty years old with no cracks. (I didn't say no
leaks.)

Ever see the old Vacu-form (sp?) toy?

What really leads to cracks are "stress raisers," scratches or nicks. It
really pays to polish the edges glossy. Also, use oversized holes and
fender washers so the plexi can squirm and move. Never, ever, use
countersunk fasteners.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...

snip

Just finished replacing six 25 year old acrylic Fuller Brush 7"x15"
port lights. The all leaked and were cracked. Why? the house has a
curve to it. So when port started to leak PO cinched them down and they
cracked. Acrylic can not take much of a curve.

Replaced with 3/8" polycarb/Lexan through bolted with 316L ss 1/4"
machine screws. Used a 1/8" 316 trim ring inside and out as a "washer."
Absolutely bullet proof. Lexan bends without cracking.

If your house has a curve do NOT use acrylics/Plexiglas. It will crack,
if not when drilling it, later from stress from the curve of the
house.

When you go the lexan route can not use 5200 like sealants. I used a
Dow Corning product; 791 I think.

Bob




Bob December 28th 05 11:40 PM

New portlight foreward.
 
Ups mistake............the correct product number is Dow Corning 795
structural silicon adhesive/sealant. Trust me it aint your
grandfather's silicon seal.

An excellent choice for polycarbonate needing a
bedding/sealing/adhesive. Still needs to be fastened mechanically.
There are others including Sikaflex product. But some require a prime
coat before sealant application.

Bob


Brian Whatcott December 29th 05 02:47 AM

New portlight foreward.
 
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 20:40:16 GMT, "derbyrm"
wrote:

/// My Cessna's
windscreen is over thirty years old with no cracks. (I didn't say no
leaks.)
Roger



An old A&P trick for sealing windshields.
Place masking tapeadjacent to rubber seal strip.
Run the usual silicone rubber sealer round the sealing strip.
Pull the masking tape. Leaves a very tidy edge.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK



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