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New portlight foreward.
I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K |
New portlight foreward.
Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole.
"Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K |
New portlight foreward.
The 5200 may be forever, but the plexi isn't. It'll weather and scratch
over time and will need replacing. "Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K |
New portlight foreward.
John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows
on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using Translucent Acrylic black? What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called it 7135 Lexan. John Cassara wrote: Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole. "Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K |
New portlight foreward.
not sure if these guys do plexi windows, but they've been around, might be able to offer suggestions www.waterwaysystems.com Sandy Dan and Donna Happ ) writes: --------------090408060605050702040205 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using Translucent Acrylic black? What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called it 7135 Lexan. John Cassara wrote: Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole. "Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K --------------090408060605050702040205 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit !DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" html head title/title /head body John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using Translucent Acrylic black? br What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called it 7135 Lexan.br br John Cassara wrote:br blockquote type="cite" " pre wrap=""Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole. "Terry Spragg" a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" "<tspr >/a wrote in message a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" /a... /pre blockquote type="cite" pre wrap=""I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K /pre /blockquote pre wrap=""!---- /pre /blockquote br /body /html --------------090408060605050702040205-- |
New portlight foreward.
John SandyMacTavish wrote: not sure if these guys do plexi windows, but they've been around, might be able to offer suggestions www.waterwaysystems.com Sandy Dan and Donna Happ ) writes: --------------090408060605050702040205 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using Translucent Acrylic black? What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called it 7135 Lexan. John Cassara wrote: Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole. "Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K --------------090408060605050702040205 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit !DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" html head title/title /head body John, what color Plexi are you using? I am trying to replace the windows on my boat and I'm having a time getting the correct color. Are you using Translucent Acrylic black? br What color is normally used? I just bought some Gray smoked Polycarb and the color is way off. Special order and they won't take it back. They called it 7135 Lexan.br br John Cassara wrote:br blockquote type="cite" " pre wrap=""Experiment bending the Plexiglas before cutting the hole. "Terry Spragg" a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" "<tspr >/a wrote in message a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" /a... /pre blockquote type="cite" pre wrap=""I want to add a fixed window on the fore part of the cabin, so I can see through the cabin whilst seated at the helm. A tall cushion might be as good, but being able to look forward from below counts, too. Maybe a bent plexiglas cowling trapped under the partly opened fore hatch? The forward cabin bulkhead is curved in one direction, radially around the mast, so to speak, but not so much vertically. I have in mind to cut a hole, then flex a sheet of plexiglas, whatever, bolting it through. I wonder if 5200 can be trusted to never need replacing, is good enough, too good, or if there are alternatives I have not imagined? Terry K Hello Just finished replacing six 25 year old acrylic Fuller Brush 7"x15" port lights. The all leaked and were cracked. Why? the house has a curve to it. So when port started to leak PO cinched them down and they cracked. Acrylic can not take much of a curve. Replaced with 3/8" polycarb/Lexan through bolted with 316L ss 1/4" machine screws. Used a 1/8" 316 trim ring inside and out as a "washer." Absolutely bullet proof. Lexan bends without cracking. If your house has a curve do NOT use acrylics/Plexiglas. It will crack, if not when drilling it, later from stress from the curve of the house. When you go the lexan route can not use 5200 like sealants. I used a Dow Corning product; 791 I think. Bob /pre /blockquote pre wrap=""!---- /pre /blockquote br /body /html --------------090408060605050702040205-- |
New portlight foreward.
I agree with your recommendation of Lexan as superior. However, if one is
willing to heat-soften the acrylic then curved surfaces are possible -- see the many curvaceous aircraft canopies and windshields. My Cessna's windscreen is over thirty years old with no cracks. (I didn't say no leaks.) Ever see the old Vacu-form (sp?) toy? What really leads to cracks are "stress raisers," scratches or nicks. It really pays to polish the edges glossy. Also, use oversized holes and fender washers so the plexi can squirm and move. Never, ever, use countersunk fasteners. Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm "Bob" wrote in message ups.com... snip Just finished replacing six 25 year old acrylic Fuller Brush 7"x15" port lights. The all leaked and were cracked. Why? the house has a curve to it. So when port started to leak PO cinched them down and they cracked. Acrylic can not take much of a curve. Replaced with 3/8" polycarb/Lexan through bolted with 316L ss 1/4" machine screws. Used a 1/8" 316 trim ring inside and out as a "washer." Absolutely bullet proof. Lexan bends without cracking. If your house has a curve do NOT use acrylics/Plexiglas. It will crack, if not when drilling it, later from stress from the curve of the house. When you go the lexan route can not use 5200 like sealants. I used a Dow Corning product; 791 I think. Bob |
New portlight foreward.
Ups mistake............the correct product number is Dow Corning 795
structural silicon adhesive/sealant. Trust me it aint your grandfather's silicon seal. An excellent choice for polycarbonate needing a bedding/sealing/adhesive. Still needs to be fastened mechanically. There are others including Sikaflex product. But some require a prime coat before sealant application. Bob |
New portlight foreward.
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 20:40:16 GMT, "derbyrm"
wrote: /// My Cessna's windscreen is over thirty years old with no cracks. (I didn't say no leaks.) Roger An old A&P trick for sealing windshields. Place masking tapeadjacent to rubber seal strip. Run the usual silicone rubber sealer round the sealing strip. Pull the masking tape. Leaves a very tidy edge. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
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