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band saw and a planer
can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to her some of your input... |
band saw and a planer
"seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to her some of your input... What size stock will you be using? I just filled my shop with goodies from Grizzly and am very happy with the quality/price: http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx |
band saw and a planer
I do not know exactly where you live or what you intent to do with a band
saw and planer. In the US http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx is a good choice for average quality motorized tools. In Canada www.busybeetools.com they have about the same tools as Grizzly. By planer I take that you mean thickness planer. Here you should experiment with different type and sizes. If you intent to plane a few board of pine and the occasional oak plank every year a portable Delta, Makita,Dewalt or equivalent copy costing between $300.00 - $600.00 will do the job. The thing to watch for is blades replacement and adjustment. I prefer the drop in type they do not need adjustment. The later are powered by 120 volts and can be moved around easily. With these planers it is wise to only remove a small amount every pass like less than 1/64. If you have a rough 4/4 thick board to reduce it to 3/4 thick will take many pass. If you think that you work load may be a few thousand board foot of hard wood every year a more powerful planer running on 220 volts would be the tool of choice. In either case you will need a chips collector. As for the band saw for average work a 1 HP, 110 Volts, 14" X 14" table, 14" throat and a cutting height of 6" will do. If you intent to some ripping and make you own board from logs or larger pieces of timber and make large bowl blanks from green wood you will need a larger 220 volts band saw. The best thing is to identify the space, electrical power outlet (110 and 220 volts ) and what you want to do before buying a band saw or a surface planer. wrote in message news:F2xaf.1413$9u4.87@trnddc01... "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to her some of your input... What size stock will you be using? I just filled my shop with goodies from Grizzly and am very happy with the quality/price: http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx |
band saw and a planer
When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears Dunlop isn't that far out of square. If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper. I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in moments. I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no plans to replace it. Just another view. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to hear some of your input... |
band saw and a planer
I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used. During the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool an average of 50 to 200 hours. The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust from the surface table. As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They advised that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work I do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would be better served with a bigger machine. "Roger Derby" wrote in message ink.net... When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears Dunlop isn't that far out of square. If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper. I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in moments. I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no plans to replace it. Just another view. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to hear some of your input... |
band saw and a planer
Amen!
For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture paste wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron is better -- it penetrates the pores. The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust and then have to clean that off before waxing. Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the cordless drills and the sanders.) http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "Denis Marier" wrote in message ... I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used. During the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool an average of 50 to 200 hours. The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust from the surface table. As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They advised that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work I do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would be better served with a bigger machine. "Roger Derby" wrote in message ink.net... When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears Dunlop isn't that far out of square. If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper. I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in moments. I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no plans to replace it. Just another view. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to hear some of your input... |
band saw and a planer
I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of
Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help. "Roger Derby" wrote in message k.net... Amen! For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture paste wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron is better -- it penetrates the pores. The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust and then have to clean that off before waxing. Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the cordless drills and the sanders.) http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "Denis Marier" wrote in message ... I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used. During the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool an average of 50 to 200 hours. The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust from the surface table. As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They advised that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work I do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would be better served with a bigger machine. "Roger Derby" wrote in message ink.net... When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears Dunlop isn't that far out of square. If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper. I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in moments. I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no plans to replace it. Just another view. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to hear some of your input... |
band saw and a planer
Rust Prevention
T-9, Boeshield, developed by Boeing. Available at any good tool supplier. Lew |
band saw and a planer
Denis Marier wrote:
I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help. You might want to try a product as CorrosionX, as it works really well in harsh environments. Apply it, then throughly wipe off the surfaces that will touch the wood. |
band saw and a planer
Hi Dennis,
I'm on the other coast with an unheated shop. Too much teak dust to risk heating. I use a Canadian product called "Fluid Film" It's comes in a spray can and is basically lanolin. The company is NLS products...Quebec I think. It doesn't evaporate like other similar products. It is also better on teak than most 'teak oils'. ...Ken "Denis Marier" wrote in message ... I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help. "Roger Derby" wrote in message k.net... Amen! For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture paste wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron is better -- it penetrates the pores. The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust and then have to clean that off before waxing. Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the cordless drills and the sanders.) http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "Denis Marier" wrote in message ... I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used. During the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool an average of 50 to 200 hours. The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust from the surface table. As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They advised that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work I do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would be better served with a bigger machine. "Roger Derby" wrote in message ink.net... When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears Dunlop isn't that far out of square. If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper. I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in moments. I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no plans to replace it. Just another view. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "seawitch" wrote in message ups.com... can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would be good to hear some of your input... |
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