I've been building a kayak off and on since March. I have just finished
updating my web page journal of the boat and just wanted to show it off.
This is my first boat building experience. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for looking.

www.uuwoodworking.com/boat

Alex

"Alex Gross" writes:

I've been building a kayak off and on since March. I have just finished
updating my web page journal of the boat and just wanted to show it off.
This is my first boat building experience. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for looking.

www.uuwoodworking.com/boat

Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?

(ii) how are you going to get the formers out of the ends?

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Usenet: like distance learning without the learning.

"Simon Brooke" wrote in message
Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?

I'm not sure about twice, but I could have definately used wider strips.
The cedar that I purchased was only about 5/8 inch thick. That is one
lesson I learned for the next boat.


(ii) how are you going to get the formers out of the ends?

The whole thing is a "clamshell". The deck will be removed from the hull
after the outer skin is fiberglassed, then the forms will all be removed
before glassing the inside and joining the 2 halves.


(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Usenet: like distance learning without the learning.

In article , "Alex Gross"
wrote:

"Simon Brooke" wrote in message
Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?

I'm not sure about twice, but I could have definately used wider strips.
The cedar that I purchased was only about 5/8 inch thick. That is one
lesson I learned for the next boat.



This brings up an issue I have about using construction grade materials. Yes,
you can build a boat from materials conveniently purchased at your local
lumberyard or home building center, but at least consider the alternative - real
boat building lumber.

First, you can get clear boards 18-20 ft long and, if you order 'rough' lumber,
a full one inch in thickness. I've never seen any western red cedar in my local
lumberyard thicker than 3/4 in, and siding is often 5/8 - by the time you bead
and cove the edges of your strips (or cut your bevels) there is nothing left but
a sliver. There isn't much need to specify smooth planned boards, 'cause the
smooth surface is going to end up hidden in the glue between your strips. I
plane the rough boards just enough to be sure they are all the same thickness,
and, after machining my bead and cove edges, the 'rough' surface is gone.

By using full length strips you will avoid the abrupt change in color that too
often results when two shorter strips are joined end-to-end. It's hard for my
eye to caress the curves of a hull without tripping over the glue joints. Tip:
If you MUST use shorter boards, use 3 strips to make 2: As you are ripping your
strips, number the strips in the same order as they were in the board. Cut board
#2 in half and glue the south end of #2 to the south end of #1; glue the north
end of #2 to the north end of #3. Your scarf joints will much less obvious
because the 3 strips (now 2) are all about the same color and texture. Yes,
scarf joints, not butts - they are way better, aesthetically and structurally.

Also, you can specify flat sawn lumber from some boat lumber dealers, so you end
up with edge grain strips. The edge grain strips will be harder (resist denting
better), stiffer (resist oil canning better), and will be easier to fair when
sanding. IMHO, edge grain strips are prettier, too.

Of course there is also a downside to boatyard lumber - unless you happen to
live in a boat lumber producing area like America's Pacific Northwest or SW
Canada, shipping costs are significant. Still, considering the total cost of
your project and the man hours you are going to invest, I believe it's worth the
extra cost and hassle.

Here are some lumber sources that specialize in boat building woods:
http://www.edensaw.com/
http://www.flounderbay.com/index.html

full length bead and cove strips:
http://www.newfound.com/strpinfo.htm
flounder bay (see above)
http://members.aol.com/cedarcanoo/index.htm

-GW

That kayak looks awesome for a first time! I don't blame you for showing it
off. And by the way, I think your website is just fine!

Dale Simpson