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Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 02:45 AM

building a boat from cardboard
 
I got myself singed up for a cardboard boat race this saturday. We
are given two sheets of 5x8 card board, duct tape and plastic
sheeting. I was thinking of building a canoe style, but was worried
about the boat folding in half. I know plywood has alot more
stability than card board, and was wondering if anyone has had
expirence in this area, or could point me to a web site that might
offer help. I don't know how big the plastic sheeting is, which is a
problem. I don't know how long the boat could be. I was thinking
along the lines of a D4, or a 12' canoe, but made a bit wider for
stability.

Playing around in the hulls program (great program!) shows me that for
one person, displacement isn't as much of a concern. My main concern
is of the plywood folding around me when I sit in it.

Any hints?

The race is Saturday.




email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Phil September 2nd 05 12:43 PM


"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
...
I got myself singed up for a cardboard boat race this saturday. We


The race is Saturday


The cardboard boats I have seen were usually covered in layer after layer
of spray paint, are you allowed to use any ?




Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 01:37 PM

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 06:43:07 -0500, "Phil" wrote:


"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
.. .
I got myself singed up for a cardboard boat race this saturday. We


The race is Saturday


The cardboard boats I have seen were usually covered in layer after layer
of spray paint, are you allowed to use any ?


No. They have to be built on site, and the only things you can bring
is stuff to decorate your boat, but no spray paint.


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
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can share your wisdom as well!

Roger Derby September 2nd 05 01:58 PM

Think triangles. Strips of cardboard folded into three sided tubes are
quite strong. Use for chine logs, sheer clamps, and thwarts.

Get one of the gadgets that put the rubber retaining strips back into a
screen door. You can crease and fold across the corrugations where needed
without cutting the paper.

Duct tape!

Bathing suit.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
...
I got myself singed up for a cardboard boat race this saturday. We
are given two sheets of 5x8 card board, duct tape and plastic
sheeting. I was thinking of building a canoe style, but was worried
about the boat folding in half. I know plywood has alot more
stability than card board, and was wondering if anyone has had
expirence in this area, or could point me to a web site that might
offer help. I don't know how big the plastic sheeting is, which is a
problem. I don't know how long the boat could be. I was thinking
along the lines of a D4, or a 12' canoe, but made a bit wider for
stability.

Playing around in the hulls program (great program!) shows me that for
one person, displacement isn't as much of a concern. My main concern
is of the plywood folding around me when I sit in it.

Any hints?

The race is Saturday.




email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!




William R. Watt September 2nd 05 03:57 PM


Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.
Also frames accross boat to retain shape. But remember, the fewer pieces
there are, the faster and easier it will be to build. For example, if
bottom is V-shaped or W-shaped instead of flat you get quick and easy
support from folds without cutting. Long and narrow is faster than short
and fat. Minimize two kinds of drag: a) amount of surface friction with
water, b) amount of waves made (that's where long and narrow comes in).
Turn boat over, tape plastic to outside to waterproof.

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William R. Watt September 2nd 05 04:15 PM


William R. Watt ) writes:
Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.


I forgot about gunwales and side decks. Fold over along top of side.
The triangle idea sounds good here.

Be sure to let us know if we win.

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Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 08:56 PM

On 2 Sep 2005 14:57:41 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.
Also frames accross boat to retain shape. But remember, the fewer pieces
there are, the faster and easier it will be to build. For example, if
bottom is V-shaped or W-shaped instead of flat you get quick and easy
support from folds without cutting. Long and narrow is faster than short
and fat. Minimize two kinds of drag: a) amount of surface friction with
water, b) amount of waves made (that's where long and narrow comes in).
Turn boat over, tape plastic to outside to waterproof.


I'm not as concerned with speed of construction. I have from 9:00am
till about 4:30-5:00 in the afternoon to get done. With no paint or
glue to dry, and no epoxy to cure, 7-8 hours should be enough time.

My other concern is what direction the corrigation goes. If the
cardboard is "strong" on the 5' dimention, It would mean more splices
on the sides, and I would want to plan accordingly.

If it is strong on the 8' dimention, then I basically have two sheets
of plywood, and a pair of pieces that are one foot by 8 feet that can
be cut into strips for the triangle tubes.

I am planning a 12-14 foot canoe, with triangle tubes running down
both the tops of the sides, and three horizontal members holding the
sides where they should go. I kinda like the cinderella canoe
(don't recall where I found it) and the NC14 from banteau.com.

I also considered making a "one sheet boat" and then using the other
sheet of carboard to "double up" the hull. I'm just not sure if that
would be the fastest, or if the canoe would be better. I will be the
only one in the boat, and it has to be paddled. (paddles provided)

This brings up thoughts of seating location. Lower is more stable,
but more power can be gained from kneelling. Of course, kneeling will
also put more stress on the bottom of the boat than sitting will.
Sitting should spread it out more, right?

just some more thoughts....


thanks!

dave


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 08:59 PM

On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 12:58:13 GMT, "Roger Derby"
wrote:

Think triangles. Strips of cardboard folded into three sided tubes are
quite strong. Use for chine logs, sheer clamps, and thwarts.


I figured a triangle along each of the sides (top and bottom if I have
enough) as well as three horizontal stabilizers should help
considerablly with the over all stability of the boat.

See my other post as well. I ranted there about canoe vs single sheet
etc....




Get one of the gadgets that put the rubber retaining strips back into a
screen door. You can crease and fold across the corrugations where needed
without cutting the paper.


Great Idea. Thanks. I'll stop on the way there and get one!

Duct tape!


Provided, and can be the only type of adhisive etc...

Bathing suit.


:) but if I build it correctly, I shouldn't get wet right? :)

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
.. .
I got myself singed up for a cardboard boat race this saturday. We
are given two sheets of 5x8 card board, duct tape and plastic
sheeting. I was thinking of building a canoe style, but was worried
about the boat folding in half. I know plywood has alot more
stability than card board, and was wondering if anyone has had
expirence in this area, or could point me to a web site that might
offer help. I don't know how big the plastic sheeting is, which is a
problem. I don't know how long the boat could be. I was thinking
along the lines of a D4, or a 12' canoe, but made a bit wider for
stability.

Playing around in the hulls program (great program!) shows me that for
one person, displacement isn't as much of a concern. My main concern
is of the plywood folding around me when I sit in it.

Any hints?

The race is Saturday.




email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!





email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 09:00 PM

On 2 Sep 2005 15:15:00 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


William R. Watt ) writes:
Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.


I forgot about gunwales and side decks. Fold over along top of side.
The triangle idea sounds good here.


Maybe cut the sides a little thicker and just fold it over so it is
one piece.... hmm... lots to think about.

Be sure to let us know if we win.


Pictures will be posted (somewhere) either way.

Thanks for all the help.

dave



email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Dave Allyn September 2nd 05 11:00 PM

Ah.. the plot thickens. I asked the lady in charge how long the
plastic is. She then asked me why? how big of a boat are you
biulding? I said "Probably 12-14 feet long" She smirked. "You know
the cardboard is only 8 feet long, right?"

"Sure. Thats bigger than plywood, but I know people that have built
30' boats with 8 foot sheets of plywood. There is even a guy who
made a 19' canoe from only one 4x8 sheet!

"huh. well, you are going to want to triple the cardboard up anyway
to hold your wieght.

"I'm sorry, but the displacement is what will hold up my weight. I
just need to engineer the boat not to colapse. that's why I need to
know how big the plastic is.

"I don't know. I havn't cut it yet. Probably about 10 feet long."


There goes my 14' canoe!!!!


back to the drawing board. I chopped the back 4 feet off the canoe,
made it into a "V-hull" and widened it out a bit. Hulls gives me a
water depth of 5.6" and a swamp depth of 11.2" that gives me a
freeboard of 5.6", and that should be enough.

Cardboard can be doubled up on the floor, and set at an angle against
the V-Hull for added strength.

Thinking this out again now, 10' of plastic won't be able to come up
the sides very well on the ends. let me do some more thinking.

thanks
dave


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

William R. Watt September 3rd 05 12:05 AM


a punt or a pirogue would be quick and easy.
I've built small boats out of 4' wide plywood by making the bottom 2' wide
and the two sides 1' high.
take a look at the 11x2x1 Jock River punt on my website below. click on
"Boats"

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William R. Watt September 3rd 05 12:10 AM


Dave Allyn ) writes:
Ah.. the plot thickens. I asked the lady in charge how long the
plastic is. She then asked me why? how big of a boat are you
biulding? I said "Probably 12-14 feet long" She smirked. "You know
the cardboard is only 8 feet long, right?"


plastic can be taped too, not just cardboard.

what's really important is how much duct tape you get. with enough duct
tape you can cover the whole boat and forget about the plastic. they
should give you a complete list of material in the contest rules.

if you have to double up on the cardboard there is a one sheet boat on my
website with a 7.75 ft waterline called the Loonie.

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Dave Allyn September 3rd 05 01:44 AM

On 2 Sep 2005 23:10:23 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


Dave Allyn ) writes:
Ah.. the plot thickens. I asked the lady in charge how long the
plastic is. She then asked me why? how big of a boat are you
biulding? I said "Probably 12-14 feet long" She smirked. "You know
the cardboard is only 8 feet long, right?"


plastic can be taped too, not just cardboard.

what's really important is how much duct tape you get. with enough duct
tape you can cover the whole boat and forget about the plastic. they
should give you a complete list of material in the contest rules.

if you have to double up on the cardboard there is a one sheet boat on my
website with a 7.75 ft waterline called the Loonie.



Checked out both boats. Thanks for the pointers. The boat I ended up
using is going to be about 8' long, Max Beam is about 32" It looks
like the front half of a canoe, but with a v-hull. The floor will be
doubled, and will be flat, to assist in the stability. I will be
useing the 2' triangles on bothe sides for stability, and will create
a kind of corregation between the layers of the floor for even more
support, especially where I will be kneeling. The Transom will be
doubled, with a 1 inch spacer in the middle to make it bow out a bit.
this should make it more stable as well. I'll make some fillet type
structures out of the left over card board for where the sides meet
the bottom.

With the dimentiones I am putting into this boat, I should have almost
a complete sheet left over to make the stabalizer parts (triangles,
second floor, etc...)

I'll run some tests here ina bit to see how water proof Duct tape is.
It doesn't have to last long, but I don't want to not finnish either!
:)


Thanks again!

dave


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Roger Derby September 3rd 05 03:02 PM

With a pointy ended hull, you'll have triangles of plastic left over that
might/could be "scarfed" to the body to accommodate a longer LOA.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
...
Ah.. the plot thickens. I asked the lady in charge how long the
plastic is. She then asked me why? how big of a boat are you
biulding? I said "Probably 12-14 feet long" She smirked. "You know
the cardboard is only 8 feet long, right?"

"Sure. Thats bigger than plywood, but I know people that have built
30' boats with 8 foot sheets of plywood. There is even a guy who
made a 19' canoe from only one 4x8 sheet!

"huh. well, you are going to want to triple the cardboard up anyway
to hold your wieght.

"I'm sorry, but the displacement is what will hold up my weight. I
just need to engineer the boat not to colapse. that's why I need to
know how big the plastic is.

"I don't know. I havn't cut it yet. Probably about 10 feet long."


There goes my 14' canoe!!!!


back to the drawing board. I chopped the back 4 feet off the canoe,
made it into a "V-hull" and widened it out a bit. Hulls gives me a
water depth of 5.6" and a swamp depth of 11.2" that gives me a
freeboard of 5.6", and that should be enough.

Cardboard can be doubled up on the floor, and set at an angle against
the V-Hull for added strength.

Thinking this out again now, 10' of plastic won't be able to come up
the sides very well on the ends. let me do some more thinking.

thanks
dave


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!




MRusson September 3rd 05 03:38 PM

On Sat, 03 Sep 2005 00:44:08 GMT, Dave Allyn
wrote:

Checked out both boats. Thanks for the pointers. The boat I ended up
using is going to be about 8' long, Max Beam is about 32" It looks
like the front half of a canoe, but with a v-hull. The floor will be
doubled, and will be flat, to assist in the stability. I will be
useing the 2' triangles on bothe sides for stability, and will create
a kind of corregation between the layers of the floor for even more
support, especially where I will be kneeling. The Transom will be
doubled, with a 1 inch spacer in the middle to make it bow out a bit.
this should make it more stable as well. I'll make some fillet type
structures out of the left over card board for where the sides meet
the bottom.

With the dimentiones I am putting into this boat, I should have almost
a complete sheet left over to make the stabalizer parts (triangles,
second floor, etc...)

I'll run some tests here ina bit to see how water proof Duct tape is.
It doesn't have to last long, but I don't want to not finnish either!
:)


Thanks again!

dave



I sure hope we get some pictures of this this so we can all see how
well you did...:o) . Hand someone a camera before you set sail.....


M Russon


William R. Watt September 3rd 05 04:03 PM


Dave Allyn ) writes:

Checked out both boats. Thanks for the pointers. The boat I ended up
using is going to be about 8' long, Max Beam is about 32" It looks
like the front half of a canoe, but with a v-hull. The floor will be
doubled, and will be flat, to assist in the stability. I will be
useing the 2' triangles on bothe sides for stability, and will create
a kind of corregation between the layers of the floor for even more
support, especially where I will be kneeling. The Transom will be
doubled, with a 1 inch spacer in the middle to make it bow out a bit.
this should make it more stable as well. I'll make some fillet type
structures out of the left over card board for where the sides meet
the bottom.


Try to avoid drag at the transom. It can really slow a boat down. The
water should flow smoothly off the back of the boat, not create
turbulance. Two things to do are a) keep the transom narrow and b) make
the bottom of the transom above the surface of the water. You can do "b"
by cutting some off the bottom of the sides at the back. If folding the
sides up out of one sheet, then a "V" (dart) can be cut out along the fold
at the back. It's more important on low powered boats - paddles, oars, and
sails.

A flat bottom boat with a transom doesn't paddle very well. It won't go
straight. You can add a skeg to the bottom at the back but then paddling
on one side isn't very good. You really need oars on a skiff. However if
you turn the skiff around and paddle it backwards the pointy end is like
the tail on a kite, it keeps it going straight. That's how I paddle my 11
ft Dogskiff. A flat bottom canoe (pirogue) or punt shape paddles better.
You can sit to one side submerging one bottom edge (chine) which then
helps keep the boat going straight. An 8 ft long boat will not keep going
straight if you lift the paddle out of the water. If you're not an
experienced paddler you can practice the J-stroke in your living rom to
get used to it. I hope you won't be using a carboard paddle. :)

I'll run some tests here ina bit to see how water proof Duct tape is.


Will be fine. It's used to make temporary patches in boats.

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chip September 3rd 05 05:34 PM

I just read MRusson's brief instruction and feel I can add a comment. I
agree completely with the "Hand someone a camera" part, but I think the
"before" should have been emphasized .... ie "Hand someone a camera BEFORE
you set sail ..."

(sure sounds like fun - and you darn well better post some fotos - including
a shot or two of the "construction" phase ...)

chip in central florida


"MRusson" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 03 Sep 2005 00:44:08 GMT, Dave Allyn
wrote:
I sure hope we get some pictures of this this so we can all see how
well you did...:o) . Hand someone a camera before you set sail.....
M Russon




William R. Watt September 3rd 05 11:56 PM


been thinking about this while cleaning fruit to make preserves, a good
boring opportunity to think.

If water gets into a carboard boat it's mush. I'd tape the plastic right
over the top to keep out spray. Probably should be supported by some
"deck beam" framing which would also act as thwarts holding sides apart.

If there were time it would be interesting to design a carboard surfboard
with a small cockpit (like a board sailer) to kneel and paddle in. Open
top. Interior cross framing like PC's honeycomb framing. Entire structure,
including interior of cockpit, wrapped in plastic to keep it dry.

Maybe the race organizer will post photos on a website showing all boats.

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