Windlass wiring
 

I am adding a new Lewmar V2 windlass to my 300 Weekender. I don't like
the idea of the toggle switch being live all of the time, so I am
trying to come up with a way to only activate the windlass when I am
planning to use it. I am trying to decide if I should add a high
current switch on the hot power cable before the relay, or use a low
power switch to disable the relay control power. Any views?

Also on which side of the battery switch should I wire in the
windlass. My plan is directly to the battery (through fuse of course,
but bypassing the battery swtich) and use the mentioned switch to keep
it off most of the time.

Thx

jonasb wrote:
I am adding a new Lewmar V2 windlass to my 300 Weekender. I don't like
the idea of the toggle switch being live all of the time, so I am
trying to come up with a way to only activate the windlass when I am
planning to use it. I am trying to decide if I should add a high
current switch on the hot power cable before the relay, or use a low
power switch to disable the relay control power. Any views?

Also on which side of the battery switch should I wire in the
windlass. My plan is directly to the battery (through fuse of course,
but bypassing the battery swtich) and use the mentioned switch to keep
it off most of the time.


IMHO a circuit breaker is better than a fuse, this also gives you a way
to shut off power to the switch & solenoid.

I installed a 1000W windlass on our boat earlier this year. Not what I
call a fun job, but it will be a big improvement. The windlass came with
a package including the switch, an up/down solenoid relay, and heavy
circuit breaker. BTW the wiring was a big part of the expense, 2/0 cable
is pricey and I used a lot of it to get the power where it needed to go
Some people place another battery up front to save on this but we don't
have a good place for it and it complicates charging & maintenance.

Fair Skies
Doug King

On 23 May 2005 13:05:22 -0400,
lid (jonasb) wrote:

I am adding a new Lewmar V2 windlass to my 300 Weekender. I don't like
the idea of the toggle switch being live all of the time, so I am
trying to come up with a way to only activate the windlass when I am
planning to use it. I am trying to decide if I should add a high
current switch on the hot power cable before the relay, or use a low
power switch to disable the relay control power. Any views?

Also on which side of the battery switch should I wire in the
windlass. My plan is directly to the battery (through fuse of course,
but bypassing the battery swtich) and use the mentioned switch to keep
it off most of the time.

Thx

disable relay control power
(no argument there)
Wire equipment on the equipment side of the battery switch
(no argument there !!)

You're welcome

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Changed my mind. Decided to go with the high current switch mounted
near the toggle switch at the helm. If I decide to add deck switches
or remotes in the future, this should make it easier. The line-up on
the hot side is now: battery, windlass circuit breaker, master
windlass power switch, relay, and windlass. Except for the power
switch this all came with the windlass.

As noted by DSK the wire was a major cost and pain. I was able to get
by with 1 AWG, but that is 1/2" in diameter. After the relay which I
mounted near the helm, I still had half a boat length to go where
three wires of this thickness had to be routed through the cabin
without screwing up the aesthetics.

One essential tool is a lug crimper for 1 AWG. Could not have done
this without it. These are pretty pricey, but Ebay comes through
again.

JonasB