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There's been a lot of discussion about materials and techniques. I suggest
that regulars on this forum will be of limited assistance with these "engineering" aspects of the problem. The hull design, on the other hand, is an interesting question. The boat must float with a heavy load, presumably at rest in a smooth pool, and have a maximum volume of 1 cubic foot. How will the weight be measured? I would guess, by adding small blocks or balls of cargo, until a gunwale goes under, and the craft sinks. Will the cargo be very dense, such as lead blocks? In that case, you will want the weight to be concentrated at the bottom center, as ballast. A very deep hull, (ideally a longish cylindrical shape, with one end closed - as you add weight, stability increases.) On the other hand, if it's too deep a hull, it will lack stability when unballasted, and perhaps fail at the outset. If the weight to be added is a relatively light (low-density), the hull shape would be very different, perhaps towering above the gunwales. Stability will be a limiting factor. Perhaps a catamaran form? What about a "floating drydock" approach, where the cargo is on a platform at the BOTTOM of two (sealed?) pontoons - as it is loaded, the platform will submerge, and cargo will contribute to the buoyancy... -- Sal's Dad wrote in message oups.com... I have to build a cement boat that will hold as much weight as possible. It must be made completely out of cement, no styrofoam, wood, or anything that would provide buoyancy. It can be 1 cubic foot maximum. How would I go about doing this?? |
I am more concerned with the design of the hull. This is a project for
my High School Engineering class, and our teacher wants us to use only cement to get our craft to float. |
we can use some sort of mesh or something to get the cement to hold a
shape, but it cannot be wood, or something else that would provide buoyancy that way. |
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There certainly are lots of cement barges plying the costal rivers of China.
Staight sides and flat botton, but probably for ease of construction and load handling. Might want to play with the math a little to get a fix on the shape that encloses the greatest volume with the least surface area. Hmmm. Sounds a lot like half a sphere. Could cast it inside a basketball... surfnturf "No Spam" wrote in message news:UTeee.7459$Rl6.7151@trndny08... I think I would model it after river barges. very flat bottom, straight sides and rounded up at both ends. Rectangle shape. It is used to haul tons of coal around here every day. It is also a very simple shape to produce. Also agree with everyone else that you need a mesh inside to keep it all together. |
On Wed, 04 May 2005 05:40:12 -0700, iceman390 wrote:
we can use some sort of mesh or something to get the cement to hold a shape, but it cannot be wood, or something else that would provide buoyancy that way. Use chicken wire, then. Make the boat a simple sqare box maybe half an inch thick. You'll have to work out how big each side is based on your cu. ft. limit. Since it is a school project, I won't say much more than that. Come to think of it, I'd probably lead you in the wrong direction anyway since I've never had any training as a marine architect. Good luck! --Mac |
OK, as I understand it you need to carry as much cargo as possible in a boat
of 1728 cubic inches total volume, can use some reinforcement as long as it doesn't float and obviously it has to be cheap. Here is another idea. As others have said a barge shape would be most efficient. It is easy to make and has a lot of innitial stability. Now for a little math. Fresh water weights 62.5 pounds per cubic foot so that is the maximum total weight. You must have some freeboard above the water line so there is a practical limit somewhat lower than that. Concrete made with portland cement and sand weighs about .087 pounds per cubic inch. A thickness of 3/8" weights .0326 pounds per square inch. The shape that will inclose the largest volume with the least amount of material is a sphere. In this case, half a sphere 14 7/8"" in diameter.with a surface area of 347.5 sq.in.weighing 11.33 pounds would be the most efficient but it would not be stable. Next choice is a topless cube 12" on a side with a surface area of 720 sq. in. and a weight of 23.5 pounds. Still not very stable though. An interesting thing about a topless cube though. If you split it in half and lay the halves side by side you get the same volume without increasing the surface area. Any other combination of H*W*L with the same volume increases the surface area. Squash the cube so it is 6" high, 24" long and 12" wide. Now the same cubic foot volume still has a surface area of 720 sq. in. and weights 23.5 pounds but is a lot more stable. In fresh water it will sink when about 39 pounds of cargo is very evenly loaded. If you are feeling real lucky you can try for 1/4" thick cement and save about 7 pounds but it will be very delicate. To build it, make a block 23 1/4" long by 11 1/4" wide by 5 5/8" high. You will need some "draft" to be able to remove the block once the cement sets so taper the sides so the bottom is about 1/4" wider than the top and take your measurements half way up. Coat it with some heavy grease. Cover it with hardware cloth or mix some concrete fiber reinforcing in the cement.. Spread on the cement 3/8" thick and work it into the hardware cloth well. If you are going to try for 1/4" thick, increase the size of the block to 23 1/2" x11 1/2" x 5 3/4" and cut some grooves in the top about 3/8" deep and 1" wide for stiffeners. One down the middle long ways and two across. When the cement has set to the point that finger pressure will just dent it, go over it with a smooth, stiff steel trowel or spatula to make the surface as dense as possible. Cover with a wet towel and let it sit for several days. Keep the towen wet. Concrete reaches about 75% of its maximum strength in about 7 days. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com wrote in message oups.com... I am more concerned with the design of the hull. This is a project for my High School Engineering class, and our teacher wants us to use only cement to get our craft to float. |
How is the teacher testing the resulting shape? Is he/she using lead shot,
pea gravel, water. Is the teacher really looking for a boat/barge or the theoretical practical solution? Lead shot in the bottom of a hemisphere would be stable enough for a test and give you the least amount of surface area. Clark "surfnturf" wrote in message news:MIfee.1223692$6l.94600@pd7tw2no... There certainly are lots of cement barges plying the costal rivers of China. Staight sides and flat botton, but probably for ease of construction and load handling. Might want to play with the math a little to get a fix on the shape that encloses the greatest volume with the least surface area. Hmmm. Sounds a lot like half a sphere. Could cast it inside a basketball... surfnturf "No Spam" wrote in message news:UTeee.7459$Rl6.7151@trndny08... I think I would model it after river barges. very flat bottom, straight sides and rounded up at both ends. Rectangle shape. It is used to haul tons of coal around here every day. It is also a very simple shape to produce. Also agree with everyone else that you need a mesh inside to keep it all together. |
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Terry Spragg ) writes: wrote: we can use some sort of mesh or something to get the cement to hold a shape, but it cannot be wood, or something else that would provide buoyancy that way. Dig a hole in the ground, line it with plastic, drive in some pins to position rebar or position chainlink fencing for reinforcement, plaster or even spray on concrete. Make it into a basement for a floating house with several compartments, wait for spring floods to launch. It's also been done upside down. Pile up some wet sand and sculpt the boat you want, cover that with burlap or something (I forget the details, plaster over smoothly with wet cement mixed with beach sand (mortar), cover with plastic sheeting (you want to keep the water in while the cement cures), and when it cures turn turn it over and drag it down to the water. I read aqbout this being done by someone who could not transport a boat to a waterside vacation spot. The cement boat was left behind after the vacation for the use of local residents. Claimed it was a success. Note that cement has to remain moist to cure. If it dries out before it cures it will crumble into pieces. Piling up the sand might be better than digging down in wet locations where a hole would fill with water. Just a thought. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
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