Welding AL to AL boat
 

I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

Use aluminum pop rivets

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:uPcRd.68211$2p.61883@lakeread08...
Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:56:28 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

Apart from which, when you inevitably find that several things are in
the wrong place......

Uzytkownik napisal w wiadomosci
oups.com...
I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

A well known British Lotus automotive firm builds Elize sports car aluminum
space frame from extruded profiles, glued together with epoxy glue
(araldite).
For tear-off resistance, use pop rivets at profile ends (after epoxy cures).
Regards
Tadeusz

Does your remark include repairs on a welded, multichine hull, of 6, 8
and 12 mm AlMg 4,5 Mn ? If so what wouldin your opinion be the best
way to repair say a hole of 10" diameter ?
I'm told TIG welding is perfectly suited for these kinds of repairs
and would not leave weakened areas behind. Am I being lied to ?

As a matter of fact I'm thinking of take a TIG welding course and take
a rel small welding machine with me.
Am I overlooking other methods ?

Regards,
Len.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote:

Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

While riveting and bonding are fine methods for fastening aluminium so is
welding. I've made hundreds of Al welds over the years that neither cracked
or failed because they were "weak". The weld design and procedure does need
to be correct... which any good welding shop should be able to do.
Quinton

"Len" wrote in message
news:1108735455.a48add4fc6f93cf9bb7b6a4e39f85961@t eranews...
Does your remark include repairs on a welded, multichine hull, of 6, 8
and 12 mm AlMg 4,5 Mn ? If so what wouldin your opinion be the best
way to repair say a hole of 10" diameter ?
I'm told TIG welding is perfectly suited for these kinds of repairs
and would not leave weakened areas behind. Am I being lied to ?

As a matter of fact I'm thinking of take a TIG welding course and take
a rel small welding machine with me.
Am I overlooking other methods ?

Regards,
Len.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote:

Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

TIG will work well for major repairs but not just any old TIG and not just
any old welder. You need an AC TIG and they start at about $1,500 and
welding aluminum is not a beginner's job. Controlling the heat is extremely
important.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Len" wrote in message
news:1108735455.a48add4fc6f93cf9bb7b6a4e39f85961@t eranews...
Does your remark include repairs on a welded, multichine hull, of 6, 8
and 12 mm AlMg 4,5 Mn ? If so what wouldin your opinion be the best
way to repair say a hole of 10" diameter ?
I'm told TIG welding is perfectly suited for these kinds of repairs
and would not leave weakened areas behind. Am I being lied to ?

As a matter of fact I'm thinking of take a TIG welding course and take
a rel small welding machine with me.
Am I overlooking other methods ?

Regards,
Len.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote:

Don't weld. Use stainless pop rivits or bolts. Welding will weaken the
area around the weld and result in cracks.

I really don't believe that the electronics are that susceptible, within
reason (don't weld the radar bracket with the receiver sitting on it.) Most
devices are well protected because the environment is naturally nasty; e.g.
bumping the engine starter puts out huge surges and the contact arcing
radiates RF.

Range Tracker, a Victory ship that supported the Bikini hydrogen bomb tests
and other Pacific Missile Range projects was filled with electronics,
designed before hardening was appreciated, and the shipyard crews routinely
cut and welded large hunks of the steel hull without precautions. Yes, some
of the modern TIG welders radiate on a particular frequency, but the classic
"stick" arc welder emulates the spark gap transmitters from the early 1900s
and radiates on all frequencies.

I would keep the electronics "buttoned up;" i.e. cables in place and covers
on. If you do remove them, I'd suggest that the trunk of a car, parked in
the summer sun, would not be a more benign environment.

Roger

http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

Len wrote:
Does your remark include repairs on a welded, multichine hull, of 6, 8
and 12 mm AlMg 4,5 Mn ? If so what wouldin your opinion be the best
way to repair say a hole of 10" diameter ?
I'm told TIG welding is perfectly suited for these kinds of repairs
and would not leave weakened areas behind. Am I being lied to ?

Well just about any marine aluminum alloy will be decreased in
strength when welded - but it's the only way to build a larger
aluminum boat. So designers take into account that the material will
be weakened. There is nothing wrong with welding up a hole like that
in that thickness of hull.

I guess a possible exception would be in a highly stressed transom
where you might increase the size of the patch to avoid an outdrive
(i.e. keep the weld from the highly stressed area).

MIG and TIG is used for welding aluminum boats with TIG preferred.
Make sure all welding is done indoors or erect a tent to keep the
inert gases from being blown away by a breeze.

Evan

Go to this site. So long as everything you have to weld can be laid
horozontally there is a product that will form an extremely strong
weld with 750 degrees of heat (available from propane, butane, map
gas, etc.).

http://durafix.com/




On 17 Feb 2005 15:07:47 -0800, wrote:

I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

On 17 Feb 2005 15:07:47 -0800, wrote:

I have a 16' aluminum boat that I've been using for a while and I want
to customize some things on it, such as rod holders, downrigger mounts,
etc..

My question is do I need to take off all the electronics, including
30hp outboard, from the boat so that the welding doesn't affect/fry any
of the electronics?

My assumption is yes, get everything electronic off the boat.

Also, what alloy of AL should I be using?

Joe Bleau wrote:
Go to this site. So long as everything you have to weld can be laid
horozontally there is a product that will form an extremely strong
weld with 750 degrees of heat (available from propane, butane, map
gas, etc.).

http://durafix.com/


*NOT* IMHO suitable for long term exterior marine use.
Its basically just Zinc rod and the joint will corrode pretty fast.
Remember you bolt zincs onto your outdrive so that they corrode and it
doesn't. OTOH if its to fix some engine part that is in a sheltered
location, or as a quick short-term fix until the parts come in or you
can get the hole in the hull to a pro, their product should work as well
as any of the Zinc based brazing rods.

The OP had better be ready to paint the joint with something like
bitumastic paint to keep the water off or be planning on selling the
boat next year or scuttling it the year after :-)

Me, I'd go with Stainless fittings bolted on with a neoprene gasket
bedded on Duralac anti-corrosion jointing compound.

http://www.sanshin.co.uk/duralac.html

Good stuff to have handy if you are mechanically fastening anything to
aluminium on a boat.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.