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Daniel, the problem is that the readings are the same depending on where
along the line they are made. There is probably 1/16 variation. Nor do the measurements turn out to be an integral number of millimeters. BS "Daniel" wrote in message ... Robert or Karen Swarts wrote: I am about to replace the halyards and sheets on my 25' sailboat. I have measured the old lines with a caliper, and had my neighbor repeat the measurements to be sure they were consistent. The result is that the lines measure between 5/16 and 3/8 for the halyards, and between 3/8 and 7/16 for the sheets. Does anyone know if old, weathered lines tend to measure more or less than their nominal diameter? I.e., are these 5/16, 3/8 or 7/16? BS Just a curiosity: did you try with a metric gauge???????? Moreover, can you make a slightly more precise measu 1/16" indeterminacy is quite large. Daniel |
Having bought the wrong size many times over the years, I always take a
piece of the old line to the store just to make sure. |
Old lines under tension get smaller.
With todays composite lines, you can probably go smaller. Do you have lock-offs or cleats? "Robert or Karen Swarts" wrote in message ... I am about to replace the halyards and sheets on my 25' sailboat. I have measured the old lines with a caliper, and had my neighbor repeat the measurements to be sure they were consistent. The result is that the lines measure between 5/16 and 3/8 for the halyards, and between 3/8 and 7/16 for the sheets. Does anyone know if old, weathered lines tend to measure more or less than their nominal diameter? I.e., are these 5/16, 3/8 or 7/16? BS |
"Robert or Karen Swarts" wrote in
: I am about to replace the halyards and sheets on my 25' sailboat. I have measured the old lines with a caliper, and had my neighbor repeat the measurements to be sure they were consistent. The result is that the lines measure between 5/16 and 3/8 for the halyards, and between 3/8 and 7/16 for the sheets. Does anyone know if old, weathered lines tend to measure more or less than their nominal diameter? I.e., are these 5/16, 3/8 or 7/16? BS If the hardware is original. the minimum size of lines should be the maximum size recommended for the sheave. You NEVER put smaller diameter. Two good reasons: 1. Safety 2. handling ease. larger diameter is easier on the hands and grips better on the winches and is held better in the cams. One further reason is that in an emergency ALL lines may be needed for jobs other than the ones the do normally. Always make certain that the lines FIT the hardware and if the hardware is not original and looks a bit light or is smaller than another piece that is original and is in line with the suspect piece...replace the suspect. Just because some new material allows for a decrease in line size does not make it acceptable for any job that matches its load capacity. A 1/4" of kevlar/dacron might very well match your main halyard load rating...but it won't match the hardware, and it sure as hell won't match your hands! -- "Let bygones be bygones...send a concilliatory PRETZEL to the Whitehouse!" "Against stupidity, the very gods themselves contend in vain." - Friedrich von Schiller "Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian |
In most cases you want the mazimum amount the sheaves will take but you can
expect the lines to run a bit slicker with one size smaller. Check the blocks. I splice or jacket up to 7/16 which is the smallest size that is comfortable in my hands. Rope strength doesn't mean as much as it used to since lines of much smaller sizes than we use have plenty of strength for the job. It's unlikely to undersize the lines on most boats where strength is concerned with the quality of the lines we have today. Unless you do some seriously bad rerigging. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.830 / Virus Database: 565 - Release Date: 1/6/05 |
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