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looking for sheet flotation foam
Hello,
Does anyone know of an inexpensive sheet foam suitable for use as flotation? Possible sources in the western US? Thanks |
"Ed Lindsey" ) writes: Hello, Does anyone know of an inexpensive sheet foam suitable for use as flotation? Possible sources in the western US? closed cell rigid foam sheets can be purchased at building supply stores, also known as home improvement stores. they come in blue and pink (blue for boys?). but it's cheapest when it's discarded at construction sites. white styrofoam is cheaper, is not closed cell which means water can get into it, but might be okay for some situations. I don't know if it's legal to use or even if there is any law covering what kind of foam you can use on boats. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
If you are going to put this foam in something else, I wonder if that
expanding "Great Stuff" spray foam would be of help. (home depot, lowes, etc). If, for instance, you were thinking of putting your sheet in a hold or something, you could spray this expandable foam instead. I don't know if it 'likes' to be wet and turns to a sponge - but that you could easily test for. Regards, Remco |
"Remco" wrote in message
oups.com... If you are going to put this foam in something else, I wonder if that expanding "Great Stuff" spray foam would be of help. (home depot, lowes, etc). If, for instance, you were thinking of putting your sheet in a hold or something, you could spray this expandable foam instead. I don't know if it 'likes' to be wet and turns to a sponge - but that you could easily test for. Regards, Remco No, it doesn't (help/work well). Froth-Pak by Dow, or Fomo Hand-Foam, by Fomo is closed cell and far cheaper for the volume needed. GS is open cell and will absorb moisture readily, and be very expensive for any but crack sealing. I just went through this for my boat (not for floatation, but for insulation, but the principle's the same). From my notes: froth pak 888-868-1183 option 2 local guy rep sez ok careful about expansion http://www.dow.com/pusystems/product/fpport.htm will help you calculate volume needs fomo.com spray in, $42 for 2cf (where to buy?) 1 330.753.4585, home office I wound up going with Fomo as it was available in larger (2CF rather than only 1CF) small sizes, and cheaper, too. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
Hi Skip
Thanks for setting that straight and doing the leg work -- I have been wondering for a while if that stuff is a viable solution and clearly it isn't. Regards, Remco |
Ed, I'm sure that your local foam supplier (see the yellow pages) can get the foam you need. I went to the one here, "The Foam Man" in Corvallis, Oregon, and bought several sample of different types of closed-cell foam to test them. I weighed each piece ahead of time (dry) and measured the dimensions (rectangular pieces). Then I tied each one to a brick and dropped it in a bucket of water where I left it for 8 months out in the shop, filling as necessary to make up for evaporation. With all the dust in the shop and mosquitoes trying to set up shop in the buckets, there was slime and who-knows-what growing in it ...short of using seawater and tossing in some oil and gas, I figured this was a pretty good emulation of a typical bilge where you might add flotation. After the 8 months, I took the blocks out, brushed them with a potato brush under running water to remove slime, padded 'barely dry' on the outside with paper towels just to get rid of sheet water on the foam, then weighed and measured each piece. I forget now all the types of foam that I tested, but the clear winner was closed-cell polyethylene (blue). They all absorb water over time, but the blue poly only gave up 3% of it's flotation capability (3% of the displaced water) and only swelled up about 3% in volume too. I followed this test by putting the blocks of foam in Ziploc bags for a couple of weeks, one end left open, to emulate a little trailer time for 'drying'. The blue poly was still wet and there was lots of condensation in the bag after a couple of weeks (not very good ventilation in/out of the bag), but the poly had given up half the absorbed water anyway. My conclusion was that the sealed-cell blue poly was an acceptable flotation foam. In my case, I was looking for something that could be cut to fit and installed, but could still be removed later on. Can't stand that expanding polyurethane foam ...everybody that I know that has used it in their boat has reported that it eventually becomes water logged and sloppy. It is best used in compartments that normally stay dry, not wet. Hope this info helps. For my boat project (see http://www.reelboats.com ), I'll have cut-to-fit sealed-cell blue polyethylene foam in the closed compartments, and will be able to remove the foam via large rectangular deck plates installed in the bottom of cabinets (not accessible to water on the deck ...deck plates leak). I'm going to run a nylon strap or rope through the first block that goes in so I can pull the blocks back out later on. It'll push the others towards the deck plate as I pull it out. Brian D "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... Hello, Does anyone know of an inexpensive sheet foam suitable for use as flotation? Possible sources in the western US? Thanks |
First, thanks to everyone who weighed in on floation foam. sounds like the
blue sheet foam is what I need. It will be glued to under gunnels and inside transom lockers, so expanding foam is ot an option. Brian, Sounds like you did a lot of work. Thanks for sharing the process and results. Blue foam it is, and a helluva lot less expensive then the stuff I was finding. Ed "Brian D" wrote in message ... Ed, I'm sure that your local foam supplier (see the yellow pages) can get the foam you need. I went to the one here, "The Foam Man" in Corvallis, Oregon, and bought several sample of different types of closed-cell foam to test them. I weighed each piece ahead of time (dry) and measured the dimensions (rectangular pieces). Then I tied each one to a brick and dropped it in a bucket of water where I left it for 8 months out in the shop, filling as necessary to make up for evaporation. With all the dust in the shop and mosquitoes trying to set up shop in the buckets, there was slime and who-knows-what growing in it ...short of using seawater and tossing in some oil and gas, I figured this was a pretty good emulation of a typical bilge where you might add flotation. After the 8 months, I took the blocks out, brushed them with a potato brush under running water to remove slime, padded 'barely dry' on the outside with paper towels just to get rid of sheet water on the foam, then weighed and measured each piece. I forget now all the types of foam that I tested, but the clear winner was closed-cell polyethylene (blue). They all absorb water over time, but the blue poly only gave up 3% of it's flotation capability (3% of the displaced water) and only swelled up about 3% in volume too. I followed this test by putting the blocks of foam in Ziploc bags for a couple of weeks, one end left open, to emulate a little trailer time for 'drying'. The blue poly was still wet and there was lots of condensation in the bag after a couple of weeks (not very good ventilation in/out of the bag), but the poly had given up half the absorbed water anyway. My conclusion was that the sealed-cell blue poly was an acceptable flotation foam. In my case, I was looking for something that could be cut to fit and installed, but could still be removed later on. Can't stand that expanding polyurethane foam ...everybody that I know that has used it in their boat has reported that it eventually becomes water logged and sloppy. It is best used in compartments that normally stay dry, not wet. Hope this info helps. For my boat project (see http://www.reelboats.com ), I'll have cut-to-fit sealed-cell blue polyethylene foam in the closed compartments, and will be able to remove the foam via large rectangular deck plates installed in the bottom of cabinets (not accessible to water on the deck ...deck plates leak). I'm going to run a nylon strap or rope through the first block that goes in so I can pull the blocks back out later on. It'll push the others towards the deck plate as I pull it out. Brian D "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... Hello, Does anyone know of an inexpensive sheet foam suitable for use as flotation? Possible sources in the western US? Thanks |
"Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... First, thanks to everyone who weighed in on floation foam. sounds like the blue sheet foam is what I need. It will be glued to under gunnels and inside transom lockers, so expanding foam is ot an option. Brian, Sounds like you did a lot of work. Thanks for sharing the process and results. Blue foam it is, and a helluva lot less expensive then the stuff I was finding. Just one note - "Blue" is Dow foam; the "Pink" by Owens-Corning is very similar in most respects The folks in Midland Michigan (Dow country) might take issue. As I recall, Dow had a number of different blue foams, for different applications. When I visited them some years back, they were even developing a vermin/marine growth resistant formulation) Which you choose depends on what lumberyard you frequent. There may be other brands, as well. Sal's Dad |
"Sal's Dad" ) writes: Just one note - "Blue" is Dow foam; the "Pink" by Owens-Corning is very similar in most respects The folks in Midland Michigan (Dow country) might take issue. As I recall, Dow had a number of different blue foams, for different applications. When I visited them some years back, they were even developing a vermin/marine growth resistant formulation) Which you choose depends on what lumberyard you frequent. There may be other brands, as well. The home improvent stores around here sell regular and high density. I'd use the regular. It's cheaper and lighter so it has more floatation. The higher density board is stronger, heavier, and costs more. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
The blue closed-cell polyethylene is great for under decks, but I wonder how well it will glue to something. You might try Liquid Nails or similar I suppose. OTOH, there's another foam which is a high density closed-cell polystyrene ('styrofoam') that's coated with primer type coating ready for painting. Builders use it for something. Can't remember the name, but it struck me as something that could look nice under a gunnel since it's above the waterline. You can epoxy and paint right over it. Note that the blue foam does distort a little when it stays wet for weeks or months at a time. I'm going to use it under the decks, but haven't made a final decision on other flotation in the boat. I need to calculate how much I need and figure out where to hide it. Brian D "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... First, thanks to everyone who weighed in on floation foam. sounds like the blue sheet foam is what I need. It will be glued to under gunnels and inside transom lockers, so expanding foam is ot an option. Brian, Sounds like you did a lot of work. Thanks for sharing the process and results. Blue foam it is, and a helluva lot less expensive then the stuff I was finding. Ed "Brian D" wrote in message ... Ed, I'm sure that your local foam supplier (see the yellow pages) can get the foam you need. I went to the one here, "The Foam Man" in Corvallis, Oregon, and bought several sample of different types of closed-cell foam to test them. I weighed each piece ahead of time (dry) and measured the dimensions (rectangular pieces). Then I tied each one to a brick and dropped it in a bucket of water where I left it for 8 months out in the shop, filling as necessary to make up for evaporation. With all the dust in the shop and mosquitoes trying to set up shop in the buckets, there was slime and who-knows-what growing in it ...short of using seawater and tossing in some oil and gas, I figured this was a pretty good emulation of a typical bilge where you might add flotation. After the 8 months, I took the blocks out, brushed them with a potato brush under running water to remove slime, padded 'barely dry' on the outside with paper towels just to get rid of sheet water on the foam, then weighed and measured each piece. I forget now all the types of foam that I tested, but the clear winner was closed-cell polyethylene (blue). They all absorb water over time, but the blue poly only gave up 3% of it's flotation capability (3% of the displaced water) and only swelled up about 3% in volume too. I followed this test by putting the blocks of foam in Ziploc bags for a couple of weeks, one end left open, to emulate a little trailer time for 'drying'. The blue poly was still wet and there was lots of condensation in the bag after a couple of weeks (not very good ventilation in/out of the bag), but the poly had given up half the absorbed water anyway. My conclusion was that the sealed-cell blue poly was an acceptable flotation foam. In my case, I was looking for something that could be cut to fit and installed, but could still be removed later on. Can't stand that expanding polyurethane foam ...everybody that I know that has used it in their boat has reported that it eventually becomes water logged and sloppy. It is best used in compartments that normally stay dry, not wet. Hope this info helps. For my boat project (see http://www.reelboats.com ), I'll have cut-to-fit sealed-cell blue polyethylene foam in the closed compartments, and will be able to remove the foam via large rectangular deck plates installed in the bottom of cabinets (not accessible to water on the deck ...deck plates leak). I'm going to run a nylon strap or rope through the first block that goes in so I can pull the blocks back out later on. It'll push the others towards the deck plate as I pull it out. Brian D "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... Hello, Does anyone know of an inexpensive sheet foam suitable for use as flotation? Possible sources in the western US? Thanks |
I wonder where one could get some of the vermin/growth resistant variety? I'll check around ...thanks for the heads up. Brian D "Sal's Dad" wrote in message ... "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... First, thanks to everyone who weighed in on floation foam. sounds like the blue sheet foam is what I need. It will be glued to under gunnels and inside transom lockers, so expanding foam is ot an option. Brian, Sounds like you did a lot of work. Thanks for sharing the process and results. Blue foam it is, and a helluva lot less expensive then the stuff I was finding. Just one note - "Blue" is Dow foam; the "Pink" by Owens-Corning is very similar in most respects The folks in Midland Michigan (Dow country) might take issue. As I recall, Dow had a number of different blue foams, for different applications. When I visited them some years back, they were even developing a vermin/marine growth resistant formulation) Which you choose depends on what lumberyard you frequent. There may be other brands, as well. Sal's Dad |
If they did go forward with that product, it would probably be in the big
billets they sell for dock floats. Your local distributor will probably have no clue; my information came from a Dow product manager, 6 or 8 or 10 years ago; at that time they were working on development. Sal's Dad "Brian D" wrote in message ... I wonder where one could get some of the vermin/growth resistant variety? I'll check around ...thanks for the heads up. Brian D "Sal's Dad" wrote in message ... "Ed Lindsey" wrote in message ... First, thanks to everyone who weighed in on floation foam. sounds like the blue sheet foam is what I need. It will be glued to under gunnels and inside transom lockers, so expanding foam is ot an option. Brian, Sounds like you did a lot of work. Thanks for sharing the process and results. Blue foam it is, and a helluva lot less expensive then the stuff I was finding. Just one note - "Blue" is Dow foam; the "Pink" by Owens-Corning is very similar in most respects The folks in Midland Michigan (Dow country) might take issue. As I recall, Dow had a number of different blue foams, for different applications. When I visited them some years back, they were even developing a vermin/marine growth resistant formulation) Which you choose depends on what lumberyard you frequent. There may be other brands, as well. Sal's Dad |
I built a failed experimental dory using Pink foam - 1" and 2", sheathed
with epoxy/glass. More than 15 years later, it's still deteriorating in the yard - the epoxy/foam bond was never a problem. Very expensive/time-consuming for trying out a lousy design. But it was light, strong, and unsinkable! As I recall, my brother built a pink foam kayak, maybe sheathed in polyester/glass. I vaguely remember problems with the polyester bond in a structural application. I've used foam/epoxy in a number of applications, including a sponsons on my daughter's kayak. Glue it on, as many layers thick as you like, and then shape with a razor knife or electric sander. My guess is you'll be able to find a good cheap primer or paint for it. Or just leave it "bright"! And be careful with terminology - I'm not an expert, but there are a lot of products out there, and most people use incorrect names for them. Sal's Dad "Brian D" wrote in message ... The blue closed-cell polyethylene is great for under decks, but I wonder how well it will glue to something. You might try Liquid Nails or similar I suppose. OTOH, there's another foam which is a high density closed-cell polystyrene ('styrofoam') that's coated with primer type coating ready for painting. Builders use it for something. Can't remember the name, but it struck me as something that could look nice under a gunnel since it's above the waterline. You can epoxy and paint right over it. Note that the blue foam does distort a little when it stays wet for weeks or months at a time. I'm going to use it under the decks, but haven't made a final decision on other flotation in the boat. I need to calculate how much I need and figure out where to hide it. Brian D |
"Sal's Dad" wrote in message ... I built a failed experimental dory using Pink foam - 1" and 2", sheathed with epoxy/glass. More than 15 years later, it's still deteriorating in the yard - the epoxy/foam bond was never a problem. Very expensive/time-consuming for trying out a lousy design. But it was light, strong, and unsinkable! (snip) If it was light, strong and unsinkable, why was it a "failed" experiment? |
"Sal's Dad" wrote in message ... I built a failed experimental dory using Pink foam - 1" and 2", sheathed with epoxy/glass. More than 15 years later, it's still deteriorating in the yard - the epoxy/foam bond was never a problem. Very expensive/time-consuming for trying out a lousy design. But it was light, strong, and unsinkable! (snip) If it was light, strong and unsinkable, why was it a "failed" experiment? It was expensive and time-consuming. And oh yes, the hull shape was very unstable, inefficient, slow, and one or two other problems. But upside down under a tree, it makes a nice warm winter home for porcupines. |
On Sat, 08 Jan 2005 11:20:09 -0800, Brian D wrote:
[snip] I forget now all the types of foam that I tested, but the clear winner was closed-cell polyethylene (blue). Are you sure it wasn't polystyrene? I haven't shopped foams too much, but in my limited meanderings I haven't seen polyethylene foam for sale. Just wondering. --Mac |
Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D "Mac" wrote in message ... On Sat, 08 Jan 2005 11:20:09 -0800, Brian D wrote: [snip] I forget now all the types of foam that I tested, but the clear winner was closed-cell polyethylene (blue). Are you sure it wasn't polystyrene? I haven't shopped foams too much, but in my limited meanderings I haven't seen polyethylene foam for sale. Just wondering. --Mac |
"Brian D" wrote in message
... Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D I'd bet he meant polyurethane. "Blue" and "Pink" board are that - and epoxy does just fine with them. L8R Skip, using it for the reefer/freezer rebuild -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:25:09 -0500, Skip Gundlach wrote:
"Brian D" wrote in message ... Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D I'd bet he meant polyurethane. "Blue" and "Pink" board are that - and epoxy does just fine with them. L8R Skip, using it for the reefer/freezer rebuild You can buy blue styrene foam, too. At this point, I believe Brian D that the foam is polyethylene. --Mac |
Yes, my foam supplier is very knowledgeable (even if I'm not) and I've talked to him about the foam several times in addition to buying some and testing it. It is closed-cell polyETHYLENE foam. Do a web search. It is also used for filling mat-type boat fenders, plastic kayaks, and several other marine related applications. And no, epoxy won't stick to it worth a darn. Brian D "Mac" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:25:09 -0500, Skip Gundlach wrote: "Brian D" wrote in message ... Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D I'd bet he meant polyurethane. "Blue" and "Pink" board are that - and epoxy does just fine with them. L8R Skip, using it for the reefer/freezer rebuild You can buy blue styrene foam, too. At this point, I believe Brian D that the foam is polyethylene. --Mac |
Hey ...look what I found:
http://www.fluidzone.com/pages/?pageID=558&wordsID=812 Great info on a variety of closed-cell polyethylene (and polypropylene) foams. Brian D "Mac" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:25:09 -0500, Skip Gundlach wrote: "Brian D" wrote in message ... Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D I'd bet he meant polyurethane. "Blue" and "Pink" board are that - and epoxy does just fine with them. L8R Skip, using it for the reefer/freezer rebuild You can buy blue styrene foam, too. At this point, I believe Brian D that the foam is polyethylene. --Mac |
I just stepped out to the garage to look at some of the rigid blue house insulation foam. It says Dow styrofoam, extruded polystyrene. Different animal but closed cell. "Brian D" ) writes: Yes, my foam supplier is very knowledgeable (even if I'm not) and I've talked to him about the foam several times in addition to buying some and testing it. It is closed-cell polyETHYLENE foam. Do a web search. It is also used for filling mat-type boat fenders, plastic kayaks, and several other marine related applications. And no, epoxy won't stick to it worth a darn. Brian D "Mac" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:25:09 -0500, Skip Gundlach wrote: "Brian D" wrote in message ... Nope. Polyethylene for sure. The local guy sells every kind of foam known to man and if it's not in the shop, he can get it. He told me it was closed-cell polyethylene. I doubt epoxy sticks to it. But I think it'll be fine for cut-to-shape blocks below the deck (large enough pieces so they don't get lost on a bad holing of course ...grinz). Brian D I'd bet he meant polyurethane. "Blue" and "Pink" board are that - and epoxy does just fine with them. L8R Skip, using it for the reefer/freezer rebuild You can buy blue styrene foam, too. At this point, I believe Brian D that the foam is polyethylene. --Mac -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
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