router selection?
 

Hi all,

A bit of background:

I'm building a foam/stitched E-glass/carbon fiber/epoxy bridgedeck cabin for
my 40' catamaran. I *think* I want/need a router to carve rebates in the
foam at edges where taping will occur and also in areas of high loaded
fittings where extra laminate will be applied to avoid lumps.

So now that I've justified my purchase of a router, I began to think of what
else I could use it for on this and other projects. In the next year or so
I'm going to be building the interior furniture for this cabin, and re-doing
galley cabinets, among other projects.

I can see using a router to make profiles in hardwood to trim bulkeads,
round over openings in bin-type lockers, etc. Cut openings in the new cabin
for recessed bonded in windows. The heaviest plywood on this boat is going
to be 1/4" with lots of foam/glass cabinets and seating. Wood trim would
never exceed 1"x1". Building an icebox would be easier with one to shape
the lid openings.

I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

So my questions a

- what size of router is most appropriate for these jobs that I have
described?
- am I leaving out other obvious uses that may require a bigger one?
- weight is important since this tool would stay with me on the boat and
it's a catamaran where I try to keep things light - but should I consider
one of the plunge / fixed base router kits?

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts,


Evan Gatehouse
ceilydh **at** 3web **dot** net
---- rewrite my signature to send email

Hi Evan,

Porter cable makes a router that comes with both bases (standard and
plung). in your price range. I have one of the standard ones that will fit
both 1/4 and 1/2 both bits about 120 at Lowes. Make sure that the router
will take both size bits.
Freud hace a 3.25 Hp plung router that I love. It does weigh more. We use
them for making door panels.

-Lee

"Evan Gatehouse / Diane Selkirk" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A bit of background:

I'm building a foam/stitched E-glass/carbon fiber/epoxy bridgedeck cabin
for
my 40' catamaran. I *think* I want/need a router to carve rebates in the
foam at edges where taping will occur and also in areas of high loaded
fittings where extra laminate will be applied to avoid lumps.

So now that I've justified my purchase of a router, I began to think of
what
else I could use it for on this and other projects. In the next year or
so
I'm going to be building the interior furniture for this cabin, and
re-doing
galley cabinets, among other projects.

I can see using a router to make profiles in hardwood to trim bulkeads,
round over openings in bin-type lockers, etc. Cut openings in the new
cabin
for recessed bonded in windows. The heaviest plywood on this boat is
going
to be 1/4" with lots of foam/glass cabinets and seating. Wood trim would
never exceed 1"x1". Building an icebox would be easier with one to shape
the lid openings.

I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly
white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

So my questions a

- what size of router is most appropriate for these jobs that I have
described?
- am I leaving out other obvious uses that may require a bigger one?
- weight is important since this tool would stay with me on the boat and
it's a catamaran where I try to keep things light - but should I consider
one of the plunge / fixed base router kits?

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts,


Evan Gatehouse
ceilydh **at** 3web **dot** net
---- rewrite my signature to send email

Hi
Im\e a boatbuilder and I live outside Us. so I can\t discuss brands
while all the time I had 2 Scheer 1400 Watt with 10 mm. bits and
adabter to 6 mm.
Now that is just before the size that realy could harm you if you don\t
learn about how to use and why to use a routher like this and not like
that, but maby you know the bigger the tool the finer the work but
still I would suggest you to get a cheap one first as then you realy
realise how important it is that all functions work well ----- also
bits realy got cheap so it ios important that you find one where you
can buy cheap but profesional drills ,so you don\t buy a 6 mm. that
can\t be fittet with an adabter to 8 mm sharft.
Now remember that an electric tool survive well with 1000 hours of load
often way less but a profesional heavy router don\t burn it\s way thru
with to high revolutions and destroying the bits, ----- either buy real
expensive or real cheap.
P.C.

Most folks' 'standard' router is the mid-size (1-3/4 HP) Porter-Cable.
P-C offers a kit consisting of the motor, a conventional base and a
plunge base. The model number for the kit is 693PK. Should be $179,
tops. I have an older version of this kit, plus an extra base mounted
in my router table. I find the conventional base more convenient and
don't use the plunge base often. When you need a plunge base, you need
it, so get the kit.. The edge trimming guide ($25) is a good add-on.
It's sometimes bundled with he PK kit. There's an earlier version right
now on ebay for $88. Grab it!
Also very useful is a trim router, sometimes called a laminate trimmer.
It'll take 1/4" bits only, is a pretty light-duty machine and is very
convenient to handle in fine work. It does not have the power to cut a
1/2" x 1/2" rabbet in mahogany. These are very useful for edge
rounding, trimming 1/4" ply and other controlled cutting operations like
trimming excess glass from the edge of a sandwich panel.. I have a
pair, with shop-made guide shoes, which I use for cove & beading
core-cell. The most common model is the Porter-Cable #7310. For some
reason, there's a continuous stream of them (new) on Ebay. If you're
patient, you might get one for less than $70. There are a number of
accessory bases for the 7310. On rare occasions, they're very useful.

Regarding costs, the routers are just the beginning. I'm sure that i
have more money invested in bits than in my routers.

Evan Gatehouse / Diane Selkirk wrote:

Hi all,

A bit of background:

I'm building a foam/stitched E-glass/carbon fiber/epoxy bridgedeck cabin for
my 40' catamaran. I *think* I want/need a router to carve rebates in the
foam at edges where taping will occur and also in areas of high loaded
fittings where extra laminate will be applied to avoid lumps.

So now that I've justified my purchase of a router, I began to think of what
else I could use it for on this and other projects. In the next year or so
I'm going to be building the interior furniture for this cabin, and re-doing
galley cabinets, among other projects.

I can see using a router to make profiles in hardwood to trim bulkeads,
round over openings in bin-type lockers, etc. Cut openings in the new cabin
for recessed bonded in windows. The heaviest plywood on this boat is going
to be 1/4" with lots of foam/glass cabinets and seating. Wood trim would
never exceed 1"x1". Building an icebox would be easier with one to shape
the lid openings.

I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

So my questions a

- what size of router is most appropriate for these jobs that I have
described?
- am I leaving out other obvious uses that may require a bigger one?
- weight is important since this tool would stay with me on the boat and
it's a catamaran where I try to keep things light - but should I consider
one of the plunge / fixed base router kits?

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts,


Evan Gatehouse
ceilydh **at** 3web **dot** net
---- rewrite my signature to send email

OOPS! Make that 893PK

Evan Gatehouse / Diane Selkirk wrote:

snip
I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

It is amazing what tasks you can perform with a good router. The beast
just sort of grows on you.

That said, a plunge router is a total PITA for almost any routing job
that doesn't require the plunge capability.

Take a look at the Porter-Cable combo router kit which is about $200.

Contains both a fixed and a plunge base along with the motor.

I have one and it has served my needs; however, having said that, if you
are doing a lot of cabinet work, routers are like clamps, you can't have
too manyG.

If you decide to do a lot of laminate work, then the small laminate
trimmer routers almost become mandatory, otherwise not.

More important than the router IMHO, are the bits. Stick with carbide,
forget high speed steel.

I like CMT and will continue to buy them until they prove they don't
deserve the business.

HTH

Lew

Ideally you should have one router for each router bit. :-) Unfortunately
I only have five routers and eight bases. Three PC 690s with various bases,
a big ELU plunge set up in the router table and a big Dewalt plunge that I
use to swing larger bits. Also have a B&D but that doesn't count.

The one I use most is the PC 690 with the D handle. I don't know if the
PC690 comes in a kit with the D handle and plunge bases but if it does that
would be my reocmendation.

I set the extra PC bases up with special fittings. One is a long radius jig
for cutting circles. I made an angle base for one, a scarfing jig for
another and the fourth is set up for inlays.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Evan Gatehouse / Diane Selkirk" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A bit of background:

I'm building a foam/stitched E-glass/carbon fiber/epoxy bridgedeck cabin
for
my 40' catamaran. I *think* I want/need a router to carve rebates in the
foam at edges where taping will occur and also in areas of high loaded
fittings where extra laminate will be applied to avoid lumps.

So now that I've justified my purchase of a router, I began to think of
what
else I could use it for on this and other projects. In the next year or
so
I'm going to be building the interior furniture for this cabin, and
re-doing
galley cabinets, among other projects.

I can see using a router to make profiles in hardwood to trim bulkeads,
round over openings in bin-type lockers, etc. Cut openings in the new
cabin
for recessed bonded in windows. The heaviest plywood on this boat is
going
to be 1/4" with lots of foam/glass cabinets and seating. Wood trim would
never exceed 1"x1". Building an icebox would be easier with one to shape
the lid openings.

I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly
white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

So my questions a

- what size of router is most appropriate for these jobs that I have
described?
- am I leaving out other obvious uses that may require a bigger one?
- weight is important since this tool would stay with me on the boat and
it's a catamaran where I try to keep things light - but should I consider
one of the plunge / fixed base router kits?

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts,


Evan Gatehouse
ceilydh **at** 3web **dot** net
---- rewrite my signature to send email

I am no woodworker just a woodbutcher but when I bought my big router I did
not investgate the availablty of accesories like bushings. Mine is a Bosch
and that has been a problem. Find out what style bushing your intended
router will handle.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

"Evan Gatehouse / Diane Selkirk" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A bit of background:

I'm building a foam/stitched E-glass/carbon fiber/epoxy bridgedeck cabin
for
my 40' catamaran. I *think* I want/need a router to carve rebates in the
foam at edges where taping will occur and also in areas of high loaded
fittings where extra laminate will be applied to avoid lumps.

So now that I've justified my purchase of a router, I began to think of
what
else I could use it for on this and other projects. In the next year or
so
I'm going to be building the interior furniture for this cabin, and
re-doing
galley cabinets, among other projects.

I can see using a router to make profiles in hardwood to trim bulkeads,
round over openings in bin-type lockers, etc. Cut openings in the new
cabin
for recessed bonded in windows. The heaviest plywood on this boat is
going
to be 1/4" with lots of foam/glass cabinets and seating. Wood trim would
never exceed 1"x1". Building an icebox would be easier with one to shape
the lid openings.

I'm thinking a 1-3/4 HP plunge router would be my best choice; a laminate
trimmer seems pretty underpowered for what I may try to do? I'm not and
never will be a super wood worker type of person and envision a mostly
white
painted ply/composite interior with matching varnished hardwood trim to
match what is already existing on the boat. Budget is about $200+ USD

So my questions a

- what size of router is most appropriate for these jobs that I have
described?
- am I leaving out other obvious uses that may require a bigger one?
- weight is important since this tool would stay with me on the boat and
it's a catamaran where I try to keep things light - but should I consider
one of the plunge / fixed base router kits?

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts,

I bought a Hitachi M12V 3 1/4 HP plunge router a while ago and really like
the tool. I've mounted it in a table and use it as a shaper and do a fair
amount of cabinet work with it.
It is a little heavy (as larger routers all are) but very usuable as a hand
router - the slow start is a nice feature so it doesn't jerk out of place.
The price is right at about $160 USD (amazon).

Remco

Take a serious look at the Bosch with the EVS Electronic variable speed and
soft start.
The stock feeds beautifully when in the table since the power is supplied
according to the load and the soft start is joy to use by hand.
I've never used a better tool.
Kit with both bases is comparable to the PC and adaptors and bushings are
readily availible from any woodworking tool catalog.
An internet price search will put you in touch with the specs and dealers.