5200 Removal
 

I am removing teak from my boat where ever possible. To date, the teak
traveler blocking and hand rails are history, to be replaced with King
Starboard blocking and Stainless Steel handrails. These former items
were fastened to the deck with 5200 and bolts. There remains now , a
footprint of 5200 which needs to be removed. Any recommendations or
hints as to technique?

There is a product called DeBond 2000 that is claimed to remove 5200 or at
least soften it enough that you have a fighting chance. I have not needed
it on old cured 5200 but it worked well on some that had cured for a week.
It also cleans up glue from old duct tape and masking tape extremely well.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Marc" wrote in message
...
I am removing teak from my boat where ever possible. To date, the teak
traveler blocking and hand rails are history, to be replaced with King
Starboard blocking and Stainless Steel handrails. These former items
were fastened to the deck with 5200 and bolts. There remains now , a
footprint of 5200 which needs to be removed. Any recommendations or
hints as to technique?

Thanks Glenn, I've tried the "debond 2000' and I'm not impressed. If
it were a smooth surface, I could probably use some kind of rubbing
tool. However, the foot prints are on the molded in anti skid
(diamond pattern). What about mild heat (hot air) and a stiff brush?


On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:07:46 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote:

There is a product called DeBond 2000 that is claimed to remove 5200 or at
least soften it enough that you have a fighting chance. I have not needed
it on old cured 5200 but it worked well on some that had cured for a week.
It also cleans up glue from old duct tape and masking tape extremely well.

Marc wrote:
I am removing teak from my boat where ever possible. To date, the teak
traveler blocking and hand rails are history, to be replaced with King
Starboard blocking and Stainless Steel handrails. These former items
were fastened to the deck with 5200 and bolts. There remains now , a
footprint of 5200 which needs to be removed. Any recommendations or
hints as to technique?

What about Boatlife's 1288 Release Adhesive & Sealant Remover?
There is also something called Anti-Bond that is supposed to work.

Found both of these thru Google, "removing 5200".

Let us know what you find.

Nothing is going to be particularly easy. DeBond, 1288 and Anti-Bond are
very similar. They only work on the surfaces they are in contact with. You
have to apply the solvent around the edges and sort of pick at it patiently
to work it under the adhesive.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Marc" wrote in message
...
Thanks Glenn, I've tried the "debond 2000' and I'm not impressed. If
it were a smooth surface, I could probably use some kind of rubbing
tool. However, the foot prints are on the molded in anti skid
(diamond pattern). What about mild heat (hot air) and a stiff brush?


On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:07:46 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote:

There is a product called DeBond 2000 that is claimed to remove 5200 or
at
least soften it enough that you have a fighting chance. I have not
needed
it on old cured 5200 but it worked well on some that had cured for a
week.
It also cleans up glue from old duct tape and masking tape extremely
well.

Amazingly tenacious stuff 5200. I love it.
Steve

"Marc" wrote in message
...
I am removing teak from my boat where ever possible. To date, the teak
traveler blocking and hand rails are history, to be replaced with King
Starboard blocking and Stainless Steel handrails. These former items
were fastened to the deck with 5200 and bolts. There remains now , a
footprint of 5200 which needs to be removed. Any recommendations or
hints as to technique?

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:19:18 -0500, Marc wrote:

Thanks Glenn, I've tried the "debond 2000' and I'm not impressed. If
it were a smooth surface, I could probably use some kind of rubbing
tool. However, the foot prints are on the molded in anti skid
(diamond pattern). What about mild heat (hot air) and a stiff brush?

Hi,

Try a strong acid or alkali left on it for a while, might do the
trick.

Why are you removing the teak BTW, is it still in good condition?

cheers,
Pete.

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:19:18 -0500, Marc wrote:

If
it were a smooth surface, I could probably use some kind of rubbing
tool. However, the foot prints are on the molded in anti skid
(diamond pattern). What about mild heat (hot air) and a stiff brush?


I was going to suggest a sharp chisel. But the non-smooth surface rules
that out.

I would definitely try the hot air and brush approach as I seem to
remember that 5200 doesn't like getting hot at all.

Let us know what happens.

--Mac

Subject

5200 is not resistant to diesel fuel.

Soaking a spot a couple of days with diesel fuel may help soften the 5200,
but don't hold your breath.

HTH

Lew

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 22:54:18 +0000, Pete C
wrote:


Why are you removing the teak BTW, is it still in good condition?

cheers,
Pete.
I'm redoing the headliner so "I might as well" core all the fasteners
in the cabin top so "I might as well" re bed the traveler and hand
rails, so "I might as well" replace the teak blocking with King
Starboard and the hand rails with SS, so "I might as well" replace
some rope clutches, reroute others and optomize some controls for
single handing. Another one of those exponential boat projects.

The teak is in good shape. I hate refinishing.