Is "tap" a proper word for water-pipe switch?

I'm looking for some kind of tap /switch to open /close the tubing to the
ballast tanks.

Since one of the main goals is to keep empty weight down beg metall things
is not acceptable.

The pipes (plastic hoose) must be 15mm (dia), maybee 20-30mm.

Hints please!


Morgan O.

"valve"

--


Keith
__
Follow the latitudes so the temperature always exceeds your age.
"Morgan Ohlson" wrote in message
news
Is "tap" a proper word for water-pipe switch?

I'm looking for some kind of tap /switch to open /close the tubing to the
ballast tanks.

Since one of the main goals is to keep empty weight down beg metall things
is not acceptable.

The pipes (plastic hoose) must be 15mm (dia), maybee 20-30mm.

Hints please!


Morgan O.

Morgan Ohlson wrote:

Is "tap" a proper word for water-pipe switch?

I'm looking for some kind of tap /switch to open /close the tubing to the
ballast tanks.

Since one of the main goals is to keep empty weight down beg metall things
is not acceptable.

The pipes (plastic hoose) must be 15mm (dia), maybee 20-30mm.

Hints please!


Morgan O.

I use a plasic ball valve on 1/5 inch id (38.1mm) hose for my toilet
plumbing. Smaller sizes are available. Cost about 15 bucks, uses
threaded hose barb adapters. Seems OK so far after one season of
use. Available at home hardware stores.

As I use air pressure to purge and dump the holding tank contents.
An advantage of this is that the prime mover (the 12v electric tire
pump) does not get wet, or come in contact with tank contents. I
wonder if you plan on using air pressure to move the ballast?

The pressures involved for this application would not be more than a
few pounds per inch. An air pressure reserve tank is generally
lightweight, provides reserve floatation, can use a small air pump
to maintain a pressure reserve, and could move a lot of water quite
quickly. The idea might be suitable for your application. If you
need to you could use a bicycle tire pump to pressurize the system.
Are you constrained by racing rules? What might they say about
pumping ballast? Could you use a foot crank powered centrifugal pump
to move the ballast?

This raises a question in my mind concerning water ballast use. If
the windward tank is full and you are about to go about, do you just
open a valve to allow the ballast to flow to the lower leeward tank
and then tack, or do you tack first and then commence pumping? How
does your use affect handling before during and after going about?

Terry K

Interesting, Steve. How much do they leak?

Stephen Baker wrote:

Valve is a better word.

http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm

Used on water-ballasted Open Class boats for years.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm

Jim says:

Interesting, Steve. How much do they leak?

Nary a drop. Good kit all around, and cheap, and light, and did I mention I
like them? I've been speccing them for about 15 years, and never heard of a
problem.

;-)

Steve

I have a couple of those that I use for other things than on the boat. Like
pulling down a large bag with the Shop Vac before turning on the vacuum
pumps. They are excellent sealing and easy to operate but I still want to
know the answer to Terry's questions about their use in water ballast
systems. When do you open them? Do they need mechanical pumps? And what
happens when you get caught on a tack with the water on the wrong side?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Stephen Baker" wrote in message
...
Valve is a better word.

http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm

Used on water-ballasted Open Class boats for years.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm

Don't the go-fast guys use these systems to roll tack?
1. Open the (big) valve(s) and let the windward tank of water drain into the
leeward tank.
2. Thus trimmed severely to leeward, the boat rounds up and tacks
3. As the boat tacks, you close the valve
4. the full tank side is now the windward side, which is the whole idea.

Sounds like fun, but it might be hard on opened beers, sunbathers and galley
crockery.

Steve?



Glenn Ashmore wrote:

I have a couple of those that I use for other things than on the boat. Like
pulling down a large bag with the Shop Vac before turning on the vacuum
pumps. They are excellent sealing and easy to operate but I still want to
know the answer to Terry's questions about their use in water ballast
systems. When do you open them? Do they need mechanical pumps? And what
happens when you get caught on a tack with the water on the wrong side?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Stephen Baker" wrote in message
...
Valve is a better word.

http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm

Used on water-ballasted Open Class boats for years.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Don't the go-fast guys use these systems to roll tack?
1. Open the (big) valve(s) and let the windward tank of water drain into
the
leeward tank.
2. Thus trimmed severely to leeward, the boat rounds up and tacks
3. As the boat tacks, you close the valve
4. the full tank side is now the windward side, which is the whole idea.

Sounds like fun, but it might be hard on opened beers, sunbathers and
galley
crockery.

Steve?

Pretty much how it works, except that some of the Open 60 type boats also
use a very big engine driven pump to pump the water faster for faster tacks
for inshore races. And sometimes the tank doesn't drain fully depending on
it's shape and you have to help it along.


--
Evan Gatehouse

you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me
ceilydh AT 3web dot net
(fools the spammers)



Glenn Ashmore wrote:

I have a couple of those that I use for other things than on the boat.
Like
pulling down a large bag with the Shop Vac before turning on the vacuum
pumps. They are excellent sealing and easy to operate but I still want
to
know the answer to Terry's questions about their use in water ballast
systems. When do you open them? Do they need mechanical pumps? And what
happens when you get caught on a tack with the water on the wrong side?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Stephen Baker" wrote in message
...
Valve is a better word.

http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm

Used on water-ballasted Open Class boats for years.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm

On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 11:33:52 -0400, Terry Spragg wrote:

Morgan Ohlson wrote:

Is "tap" a proper word for water-pipe switch?

I'm looking for some kind of tap /switch to open /close the tubing to the
ballast tanks.

Since one of the main goals is to keep empty weight down beg metall things
is not acceptable.

The pipes (plastic hoose) must be 15mm (dia), maybee 20-30mm.

Hints please!


Morgan O.

I use a plasic ball valve on 1/5 inch id (38.1mm) hose for my toilet
plumbing. Smaller sizes are available. Cost about 15 bucks, uses
threaded hose barb adapters. Seems OK so far after one season of
use. Available at home hardware stores.

From which area do they stem? House plumbing, caravans ???


Morgan O.

On 04 Nov 2004 22:10:52 GMT, Stephen Baker wrote:

Valve is a better word.

http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm

Used on water-ballasted Open Class boats for years.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm

Are they sold on the consumer market, or are they only sold to enginering
consultants, system developers and alike?

Are they heavy?

Morgan O.