Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Jan 16, 3:56*pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56*pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

--
Sir Gregory

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 1:50 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?


http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/ST...%2C+-100F.html

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

"Meyer" wrote in message
b.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:50 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It
seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?


http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/ST...%2C+-100F.html



Ah, so it would be a brand name product that claims to protect down to minus
100 degrees F.

But, they are lying as:

http://www.xydatasource.com/xy-showd...234654&dsid=67

propylene glycol is only able to protect down to minus 60 degrees F

--
Sir Gregory

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

In article , åke says...

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

The thing is, most RV antifreeze is only good to -50, so I'd kind of
like to know too!

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...
In article , åke says...

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It
seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This
particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

The thing is, most RV antifreeze is only good to -50, so I'd kind of
like to know too!



The best I've seen is good to -60 degrees F at a 60% solution of
propylene glycol and water. How they get the claimed -100 degrees
F I don't know.


http://www.xydatasource.com/xy-showd...234654&dsid=67
--
Sir Gregory

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 2:44 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...
In article , åke says...

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It
seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This
particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

The thing is, most RV antifreeze is only good to -50, so I'd kind of
like to know too!



The best I've seen is good to -60 degrees F at a 60% solution of
propylene glycol and water. How they get the claimed -100 degrees
F I don't know.


http://www.xydatasource.com/xy-showd...234654&dsid=67


It's a marketing tool... They sell you a guarantee they assume you will
never be able to call them on. If you do manage to get your car into
-100, they will probably just pay it and go on saying they are
"guaranteed to -100) LOL!

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 5:53 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 1/17/2013 2:44 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...
In article , åke says...

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from
cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It
seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This
particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad
hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the
petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I
have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

The thing is, most RV antifreeze is only good to -50, so I'd kind of
like to know too!



The best I've seen is good to -60 degrees F at a 60% solution of
propylene glycol and water. How they get the claimed -100 degrees
F I don't know.


http://www.xydatasource.com/xy-showd...234654&dsid=67



It's a marketing tool... They sell you a guarantee they assume you will
never be able to call them on. If you do manage to get your car into
-100, they will probably just pay it and go on saying they are
"guaranteed to -100) LOL!

Bite your tongue, or you will end up making a fool of yourself like
Capt. Neal , Loogy, and Harry Krause.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 6:00 PM, Meyer wrote:


Bite your tongue, or you will end up making a fool of yourself like
Capt. Neal , Loogy, and Harry Krause.

Keep your trolling to rec.boats please...

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

Star-Brite makes a number of anti-freeze products. While you are correct
about the freezing point of propylene glycol/water mixes, Star Brite has
other
additives. The MSDS for the -100 deg formula is here.

http://www.starbrite.com/msdssheets/...ds-8-17-06.pdf

Note that the product contains 93% propylene glycol with no water so your
chart may not be applicable

They market a -200 deg product as well. I bet they work as advertised
though I've no experience with their products.

Dave M.