I have a Crusader, Charger Series 250 h.p. engine which is
from what I understand a 1967 Chevy 327 5.4 liter, in a
houseboat that has an inboard drive. I have drained water
from the petcocks on the engine water pump and also
from what appears to be an inline pump that has two lines
for cooling the differential gearbox. The one on the inline
pump finally stropped draining water, but the one on the
engine water pump kept on and on and on...to the point
that I don't see how the whole system could hold that
much water. Could it still be coming as I drain it out? If so,
what to do about that?

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go and fill it with
anti-freeze, to take care of pockets where water could
still be trapped and maybe even to keep gaskets etc
from drying out. Is that something I should do? If so,
would a 50/50 mix be good enough?

Thanx for any help!
Loo

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 13:55:38 -0200, loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

I have a Crusader, Charger Series 250 h.p. engine which is
from what I understand a 1967 Chevy 327 5.4 liter, in a
houseboat that has an inboard drive. I have drained water
from the petcocks on the engine water pump and also
from what appears to be an inline pump that has two lines
for cooling the differential gearbox. The one on the inline
pump finally stropped draining water, but the one on the
engine water pump kept on and on and on...to the point
that I don't see how the whole system could hold that
much water. Could it still be coming as I drain it out? If so,
what to do about that?

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go and fill it with
anti-freeze, to take care of pockets where water could
still be trapped and maybe even to keep gaskets etc
from drying out. Is that something I should do? If so,
would a 50/50 mix be good enough?


The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero. If the boat is
still in the water, warm up the engine first. With the engine shut
down, disconnect the water intake hose at the strainer. If the
hose is long enough, put it in the bucket, otherwise make up a short
extension and place that in the bucket. Remove the air filter from
the carburetor. Start up the engine and watch the anti-freeze level
in the bucket. When there is about a gallon left, spray fogging oil
into the carburetor until the engine stalls. If it doesn't stall,
just shut it down. Replace the air filter and re-install the water
intake hose. Close the intake seacock and pour some antifreeze into
the strainer.

The engine is now winterized.

loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

pump finally stropped draining water, but the one on the
engine water pump kept on and on and on...to the point
that I don't see how the whole system could hold that
much water. Could it still be coming as I drain it out? If so,
what to do about that?

Is the boat still in the water? If so then yes it will keep siphoning
from the lake.

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go and fill it with
anti-freeze, to take care of pockets where water could
still be trapped and maybe even to keep gaskets etc
from drying out. Is that something I should do? If so,
would a 50/50 mix be good enough?

You should find what you need he

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-inboard.html


--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 13:55:38 -0200, loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

I have a Crusader, Charger Series 250 h.p. engine which is
from what I understand a 1967 Chevy 327 5.4 liter, in a
houseboat that has an inboard drive. I have drained water
from the petcocks on the engine water pump and also
from what appears to be an inline pump that has two lines
for cooling the differential gearbox. The one on the inline
pump finally stropped draining water, but the one on the
engine water pump kept on and on and on...to the point
that I don't see how the whole system could hold that
much water. Could it still be coming as I drain it out? If so,
what to do about that?

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go and fill it with
anti-freeze, to take care of pockets where water could
still be trapped and maybe even to keep gaskets etc
from drying out. Is that something I should do? If so,
would a 50/50 mix be good enough?


The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero. If the boat is
still in the water, warm up the engine first. With the engine shut
down, disconnect the water intake hose at the strainer. If the
hose is long enough, put it in the bucket, otherwise make up a short
extension and place that in the bucket. Remove the air filter from
the carburetor. Start up the engine and watch the anti-freeze level
in the bucket. When there is about a gallon left, spray fogging oil
into the carburetor until the engine stalls. If it doesn't stall,
just shut it down. Replace the air filter and re-install the water
intake hose. Close the intake seacock and pour some antifreeze into
the strainer.

The engine is now winterized.


I think it might be better to close the intake seacock before you disconnect
the hose from it

Wayne.B wrote:

The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero.

Pink stuff - as in plumbing ant-freeze? I think I have something on that
too. ;-)

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html

--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 16:36:17 -0500, Dave Brown wrote:

loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

pump finally stropped draining water, but the one on the
engine water pump kept on and on and on...to the point
that I don't see how the whole system could hold that
much water. Could it still be coming as I drain it out? If so,
what to do about that?

Is the boat still in the water? If so then yes it will keep siphoning
from the lake.

Then I guess I do need to fill it with anti-freeze and tighten
everything back up or it will fill back up with lake water?

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go and fill it with
anti-freeze, to take care of pockets where water could
still be trapped and maybe even to keep gaskets etc
from drying out. Is that something I should do? If so,
would a 50/50 mix be good enough?

You should find what you need he

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-inboard.html

On Tue, 9 Dec 2008 22:48:35 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

I think it might be better to close the intake seacock before you disconnect
the hose from it

Somethings still require common sense. :-)

Good point though.

The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero. If the boat is
still in the water, warm up the engine first. With the engine shut
down, disconnect the water intake hose at the strainer.

Agreed, this way you're pulling anti-freeze in the same way as the water is
handled.

Just BE SURE to do it only when the engine has completely warmed up.
Otherwise the thermostat won't be open and parts of the system would still
have water in them.

-Bill Kearney

On 9 Dec, 21:55, Dave Brown wrote:
Wayne.B wrote:
The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero.

Pink stuff - as in plumbing ant-freeze? I think I have something on that
too. ;-)

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html

--
Regards,
* * * Dave Brown
* * * Brown's Marina Ltd
* * *http://brownsmarina.com/

Use automotive anti freeze which is better for aluminium and the
different metals than domestic plumbing stuff.

On Dec 10, 10:14*am, back to the boats
wrote:
On 9 Dec, 21:55, Dave Brown wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero.

Pink stuff - as in plumbing ant-freeze? I think I have something on that
too. ;-)

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html

--
Regards,
* * * Dave Brown
* * * Brown's Marina Ltd
* * *http://brownsmarina.com/

Use automotive anti freeze which is better for aluminium and the
different metals than domestic plumbing stuff.

Which is also toxic and illegal. Use the non-toxic kind. Walmart has
it in the RV section.