Wayne.B wrote in
:

On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 21:10:56 +0200 (CEST), Ed Gordon
wrote:

Now, that's a pretty dumb statement!!! Maybe if you spent some time
out of "protected water" you might see some Macs in "unprotected"
water.

I spend plenty of time out of protected water. How about you?

Frankly I haven't seen any Macs in the Gulf of Mexico, on the Atlantic
Coast, in the Gulf Stream, or even the Bahamas. They'd be OK in most
of the Bahamas once they got there, but as they say, first you've got
to get there.



People go to the Bahamas on their jet-skis. Macs cross all the time.
Macs are an excellent choice. If you don't want to sail and you want to
make a fast trip you wait for a calm wind foreast and you motor across
averaging 15 to 16 mph to save fuel and it only takes you about five or
six hours to go from Miami to Bimini. A Mac 26X or M is the perfect
Bahamas boat because of shallow draft. They can go where most other
sailboats would be aground.

--
Cheerio,
Ed Gordon
http://www.freewebs.com/egordon873/index.htm

"KLC Lewis" wrote in
et:


So when the wind pipes up to force 6 or 7 and the mast starts pumping
and flexing that cabintop and you're 2000 miles from anywhere... "Oh
God, thy sea is so big and my boat is so small, and why didn't you
bless me with two broken legs on the day before I was to set off on
this voyage?"




On a Mac you can take the mast down for less windage. It makes the
stability better, too. You can motor along and keep up with the waves so
they don't break over you.

--
Cheerio,
Ed Gordon
http://www.freewebs.com/egordon873/index.htm

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:

On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 21:21:12 +0200 (CEST), Ed Gordon
wrote:

I disagree. Take an old deep keel and long keel boat like a Westerly
32. It will barely move at all at anchor. The deep long keel keeps it
straight into the wind like a weather vane.Boat's that dance at anchor
say "shallow draft".


If the long deep keel is keeping it straight into the wind like a
weather vane, then the boat is capsized.

CWM


You TRYING to sound dumb, man? The long deep keel causes drag in the
water. It won't let the boat dance around like if it had shallow draft
or the board up. You can't be that dumb, can you?

--
Cheerio,
Ed Gordon
http://www.freewebs.com/egordon873/index.htm

"Ed Gordon" wrote in message
8...

People go to the Bahamas on their jet-skis. Macs cross all the time.
Macs are an excellent choice. If you don't want to sail and you want to
make a fast trip you wait for a calm wind foreast and you motor across
averaging 15 to 16 mph to save fuel and it only takes you about five or
six hours to go from Miami to Bimini. A Mac 26X or M is the perfect
Bahamas boat because of shallow draft. They can go where most other
sailboats would be aground.

--
Cheerio,
Ed Gordon
http://www.freewebs.com/egordon873/index.htm

SPECIAL SAFETY INFORMATION 26M
SPECIAL SAFETY WARNINGS:
Boats, like any other form of transportation, have inherent risks.
Attentions to these warnings and instructions should help keep these risks
to a minimum.

THE WATER BALLAST TANK SHOULD BE FULL WHEN EITHER POWERING OR SAILING.

IF THE BALLAST TANK IS NOT COMPLETELY FULL, THE BOAT IS NOT SELF
RIGHTING. (IF YOU CHOOSE TO OPERATE THE BOAT WITH AN EMPTY TANK, SEE THE
SECTION ON OPERATING THE BOAT WITHOUT WATER BALLAST.)

WHEN THE BALLAST TANK IS FULL:
- NO MORE THAN 6 PERSONS, 960 POUNDS.

WHEN THE BALLAST TANK IS EMPTY:
- NO MORE THAN 4 PERSON, OR 640 POUNDS.
- CREW WEIGHT CENTERED FROM SIDE TO SIDE.
- ALL SAILS REMOVED, ENGINE POWER ONLY.
- NO ONE ON THE CABIN TOP OR FORDECK.
- WAVES LESS THAN 1 FOOT.
-OPERATE WHERE WATER IS WARM AND
RESCUE IS LIKELY.
- NEVER OPERATE THE BOAT WITH A PARTIALLY
FILLED TANK.

WHEN POWERING OVER 6 MILES PER HOUR:
- RUDDERS AND DAGGERBOARD FULL UP.
- SAILS REMOVED.
- NO ONE ON THE CABIN TOP OR FOREDECK.

ALWAYS, BEFORE OPERATING THE BOAT, CHECK TO CONFIRM THAT THE BALLAST
TANK IS FULL. THE WATER LEVEL IN THE BALLAST TANK SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1”
BELOW THE LEVEL OF THE FORWARD VENT HOLE. THEN MAKE SURE THAT THE FORWARD
VENT PLUG AND THE TRANSOM VALVE ARE CLOSED AND SECURE.

THE FOLLOWING COMMENTS EXPLAIN WHY THE ABOVE RULES ARE NECESSARY.


STABILITY.
Unless the water ballast tank is completely full, with 1000 pounds of
water ballast, the sailboat is not self-righting. Without the water ballast,
the boat may not return to an upright position if the boat is tipped more
than 60 degrees, and can capsize like most non-ballasted sailboats.

The MacGregor is big, but relatively light, and excessive crew weight
can overpower the basic stability of the boat. For this reason, we have
placed the restrictions on crew capacity, shown in the preceeding section.

OPERATING WITHOUT WATER BALLAST.
There may be times when you wish to operate the boat with an empty
ballast tank. For example, when pulling a water skier, when trying to
conserve fuel, when a faster ride is desired, or when you are in the process
of filling the tank. Since only a few miles per hour are lost with a full
tank, we recommend that most of your use of the boat be with a full tank. If
the tank is empty, carry no more than 4 persons, or 640 pounds.

When operating with an empty ballast tank, keep the crew weight aft,
low in the boat, and centered from side to side. Keep the crew in the
cockpit, sitting down. The rear of the hull is relatively flat, and the nose
area has a deep V to allow the boat to slide through waves with less
slamming. If there is a lot of crew weight forward, the flat part of the
hull bottom, which normally provides the stability, is raised higher out of
the water, and is less effective in providing sideways stability. With the
crew weight forward, the nose is depressed. The deep V nose shape does not
contribute much to stability. When excess weight is at the front of the
boat, the less stable nose area is carrying more of the weight of the boat
and crew, the boat becomes far more easily tipped. Keep weight off of the
forward V berth when under way, and avoid storing heavy items under the V
berth. Crew members on the foredeck or cabin top are far more likely to get
bounced out of the boat than those in the cockpit or inside the cabin.
Anyone on the cabin top will have a natural tendency to grab the mast or
mast support wires if the boat tips. That puts a heavy load high on the mast
and tends to lever the boat over. Keep the weight low. Obviously, it is best
to have the crew positioned so the boat sits or rides level rather than
leaning to one side or the other.

Do not have the sails up when the ballast tank is empty. They can
produce a very strong sideways force and capsize the boat.

If the waves are larger than one foot, they can induce a lot of
rolling motion and compromise stability. Keep the ballast tank full in such
conditions.

If you are operating where the chance of outside rescue is slim, where
conditions are rough, or where the water is cold and uninviting, fill the
ballast tank. You will go slower, but you will be a lot safer. A full
ballast tank gives greater safety.


Never sail or power with the ballast tank partially full (except for
the few minutes that it takes to drain the tank when you are under power).
With the water sloshing around in the tank, the center of gravity of the
water changes rapidly, which can make the boat relatively unstable. Fill the
ballast tank full and make sure the vent and valves are securely closed. Be
extra cautious when the tank is filling or draining. You can drain the tank
by powering the boat at 7 miles per hour. You will be able to see the water
shooting out the valve in the transom. The water tank will empty in about 3
to 4 minutes.

If the valve or vent plug is open, even slightly, the motion of the
boat can drain the ballast water from the tank or allow the boat to fill
with water. If either the vent plug or the filling valve is open, ballast
can be lost when the boat leans over. You might think that the tank is full,
and that the boat is self righting, but you may be unpleasantly surprised by
an unexpected capsize. If the transom valve is left open, or partially open,
the forward motion of the boat can drain the tank.

Drain the tank in the smoothest water you can find. Avoid fast stops
and starts, or turns, while the tank is draining. After you think the tank
is empty, check the level with the dip tube just to make sure.

NEVER POWER THE BOAT OVER 6 MILES PER HOUR WITH THE SAILS UP. The
forward speed of the boat can create enough wind to capsize the boat if the
sails are up. The result could be instant capsize. If the ballast tank is
empty, the boat will not be self righting.

NEVER POWER THE BOAT OVER 6 MILES PER HOUR WITH THE DAGGERBOARD OR
RUDDERS DOWN. If you hit something at high speed with the daggerboard or
rudders down, you will stop really fast, and may damage the board or rudders
..

At high speed, the daggerboard and rudders create lots of sideways
lift and can cause the boat to be unstable. This can roll the boat severely
or possibly cause a capsize. Pull the daggerboard all the way up into the
boat and secure it well. It is extremely important to check the control line
frequently while powering to be sure the board has not come loose and
lowered itself. This is particularly important when the boat is pounding
into waves and things tend to get jiggled loose. It is OK to leave the
daggerboard down for low speeds (under 6 mph), where it will significantly
enhance steering control.


BE EXTRA CAREFUL WHEN POWERING FAST.
Slow way down in waves or when powering with large crews. Waves come
in all shapes and sizes, and can yield some nasty surprises. Wave induced
problems, particularly with large crew loads, or crew weight high on the
boat, can cause an upset.

Watch the water ahead of you. Hitting heavy stuff in the water at high
speed can damage the boat or cause capsize. There is a lot of junk out there
that floats just at the surface, and it is often barely visible. Bumping
into something at sailing speeds is one thing, but at high speed, it can be
nasty.

The boat will be less stable with the mast up than with the mast down.
The mast is light, but it is up there, and, like any other weight aloft,
reduces stability. When conditions are marginal, (high winds, waves, lots of
crew weight, etc.), lower the mast and secure it to the pulpit and mast
carrier.


DO NOT OPERATE THE BOAT WITH A LOT OF WATER IN THE BILGE (OUTSIDE OF
THE BALLAST TANK). It can slosh around and seriously degrade stability.
Always keep your bilges dry. Check the bilge frequently.
There are a number of places where water can collect. Check them all.

The top of the daggerboard must never go more than 57” below the level
of the deck. There is a line, with a knot and washer, that will keep the
board from going too far down. Do not change the position of the knot, and
make sure that it is in the same position if the line is replaced.


DO NOT ALLOW ANY PART OF THE BOAT, TRAILER, MAST OR RIGGING TO COME IN
CONTACT WITH ANY SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL POWER. If your mast or any part of
your boat or rigging comes in contact with a power line, you could be killed
or injured. Don’t sail your boat into a power line. Don’t raise the mast
into a power line. Don’t move your boat, on its trailer, into a power line.
Masts, wires, or wet fiberglass are good conductors of electricity and can
carry current directly to you. Look up and make sure you will be clear of
sources of power before doing anything with your boat. Don’t remove the
warning decal from your mast. It may help you remember to look and avoid a
major calamity.

If you are caught in an electrical storm, don’t touch anything that is
metal, including the mast, shrouds, boom, lifelines, rudder, tiller or metal
hardware. If possible, don’t touch anything that is wet. Many experts
recommend that a heavy gauge copper wire be securely fastened to one of the
shrouds and allowed to hang in the water to carry off the electricity from a
lightning strike.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU TOW YOUR BOAT WITH A LARGE ENOUGH CAR. Check with
your car manufacturer or dealer to determine if the weight of the boat and
trailer is within your car’s towing capacity. Load your boat so the weight
on the trailer hitch is between 250 and 300 pounds. If the weight is less,
the trailer will tend to swerve dangerously from side to side. If the weight
is more, an excessive load will be placed on the rear end of your car, and
the trailer will be very difficult to hitch or unhitch. To protect your back
when removing the trailer from the car, use the hitch jack or have an adult
hang on the back of the boat to take some weight off the tongue.

NEVER OVERLOAD THE BOAT AND TRAILER. THE MAXIMUM WEIGHT IS 4200
POUNDS, AS SHOWN ON THE CERTIFICATION DECAL NEAR THE HITCH, ON THE LEFT
(PORT) SIDE OF YOUR TRAILER. Remember, the maximum gross vehicle weight
(G.V.W.R.) includes the weight of the trailer as well as the weight of the
boat and all gear in the boat. You may not deduct the weight that is carried
on the hitch of the car in arriving at the G.V.W.R. Check your state law to
determine if there are any other weight or braking requirements that must be
met.

MAKE SURE THE TRAILER WHEEL LUG NUTS ARE TIGHT BEFORE TRAILERING THE
BOAT.

BEFORE TRAILERING THE BOAT, MAKE SURE THE NOSE OF THE BOAT IS TIED
SECURELY TO THE TRAILER.

MAKE SURE THE OUTBOARD MOTOR AND MAST ARE ATTACHED FIRMLY TO THE BOAT
WHEN THE BOAT IS BEING TRAILERED.

DO NOT TRAILER THE BOAT WITH ANY WATER IN THE BALLAST TANK. THE 1000
POUNDS OF WATER WILL SEVERELY OVERLOAD THE TRAILER AND THE CAR. Open the
transom valve and vent, and drain the tank completely before trailering.
Leave the valve open when trailering.

DON’T STORE FUEL CANS INSIDE THE BOAT. Gas fumes are explosive. Keep
all gasoline containers out of the boat. Store fuel tanks in the open
compartments next to the pedestal.
BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS. TREAT THEM CAUTIOUSLY. Batteries can produce
explosive gas, corrosive acid and levels of electrical current high enough
to cause burns. Always wear eye protection or shield your eyes when working
near any battery and remove all metal rings and jewelry. Never expose a
battery to open flames or sparks. Do not smoke near a battery. It could blow
up. Do not allow battery acid to contact eyes, skin, fabrics or painted
surfaces. Flush any contacted area with water immediately and thoroughly.
Get medical help if eyes are affected. Do not charge the battery, adjust
post connections or use booster cables without making sure the battery
compartment is properly ventilated. When charging the battery, carefully
follow the instructions on the charger. Keep the battery filled to the
proper level with distilled water. Always keep vent caps tight. Do not allow
metal tools or metal parts to contact the positive (+) terminal and the
negative (-) terminal or any metal connected to these terminals.

DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE FOAM FLOTATION BLOCKS. Loss of any of the
foam could seriously impair the ability of the boat to stay afloat if
damaged.

IF THE CABIN OF THE BOAT IS ENTIRELY FILLED WITH WATER, AND THE BOAT
IS DEPENDENT ON THE FOAM FLOTATION TO KEEP IT AFLOAT, IT WILL BE VERY
UNSTABLE, AND MAY TURN UPSIDE DOWN.


WHEN RAISING AND LOWERING THE MAST, DON’T ALLOW ANYONE TO STAND WHERE
THE MAST OR SUPPORT WIRES COULD FALL IF SOMETHING, OR SOMEONE, LETS GO.

BE EXCEEDINGLY CAREFUL WHEN SAILING IN HIGH WINDS. LEARN BASIC
SEAMANSHIP. The Coast Guard Auxiliary Power Squadrons offer excellent
courses at low cost. This is a worthwhile investment.

BE READY TO RELEASE SAIL CONTROL LINES (SHEETS) QUICKLY IF A GUST OF
WIND CAUSES THE BOAT TO LEAN EXCESSIVELY. Lines should be free of kinks and
knots so they will run freely through the pulleys when it is necessary to
let the sails out quickly. Tie a knot in the extreme end of the line to keep
it in the pulley. Letting the lines go is your best protection from a
knockdown. For best performance under sail, and for safety, keep the boat
from leaning (heeling) more than about 20 to 25 degrees.

ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE OUTBOARD MOTOR WHEN THE BOAT IS NEAR PEOPLE IN THE
WATER. EVEN WITH LOW HORSEPOWER MOTORS, THE PROPELLER CAN DO SERIOUS DAMAGE.
Don’t allow ropes to hang in the water (particularly the rudder ropes). They
could tangle in the prop and stop or damage the motor.





SPECIAL SAFETY INFORMATION 26X

The following safety warnings are included as part of the Owner's
Manual that is provided to the owner at the time the boat is delivered.
Many apply to power and sailboats in general, and some apply to the unique
design of the MacGregor 26.

IF THE BALLAST TANK IS NOT COMPLETELY FULL, THE BOAT CAN CAPSIZE.

Unless the water ballast tank is completely full, with 1400 pounds of
water ballast, the sailboat is not self-righting. Without the water
ballast, the boat may not return to an upright position if the boat is
tipped more than 50 degrees, and will capsize like most non-ballasted
sailboats. Always, before sailing the boat, remove the 1" diameter vent
plug located under the rear end of the forward V berth, and make sure that
the water level is no more than 3" below the hole from which the plug was
removed. Then reinstall the plug. If you have to sail the boat without
ballast, do not cleat down any sail control line. You must hand hold them
and release them quickly if the boat tips excessively. Always make sure
that the line is untangled and free to run out to its end without jamming.



NEVER POWER THE BOAT OVER 6 MILES PER HOUR WITH THE CENTERBOARD DOWN.
At high speed, the centerboard creates lots of side*ways lift and can cause
the boat to be unstable. It can roll the boat severely or possibly cause a
capsize. Pull it all the way up into the boat and secure it well. It is
extremely important to check the cable frequently while powering to be sure
the board has not come loose and lowered itself. This is particularly
important when the boat is pounding into waves and things tend to get
jiggled loose. It is OK to leave the board down for low speeds (under 6
mph), where it will significantly enhance steering control.



DO NOT ALLOW ANY PART OF THE BOAT, TRAILER, MAST OR RIGGING TO COME IN
CONTACT WITH ANY SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL POWER. If your mast or any part of
your boat or rigging comes in contact with a power line, you could be killed
or injured. Don't sail your boat into a power line. Don't step your mast
into a power line. Don't move your boat, on its trailer, into a power line.
Masts, wire shrouds, or wet fiberglass are good conductors of electricity
and can carry current directly to you. Look up and make sure you will be
clear of sources of power before doing anything with your boat. Don't
remove the warning decal from your mast. It may help you remember to look
and avoid a major calamity.



If you are caught in an electrical storm, don't touch anything that is
metal, including the mast, shrouds, boom, lifelines, rudder, tiller or metal
hardware. If possible, don't touch anything that is wet. Many experts
recommend that a heavy gauge copper wire be securely fastened to one of the
shrouds and allowed to hang in the water to carry off the electricity from a
lightning strike.



MAKE SURE THAT YOU TOW YOUR BOAT WITH A LARGE ENOUGH CAR. Check with
your car manufacturer or dealer to determine if the weight of the boat and
trailer is within your car's towing capacity. Load your boat so the weight
on the trailer hitch is between 250 and 280 pounds. If the weight is less,
the trailer will tend to swerve dangerously from side to side. If the weight
is more, an excessive load will be placed on the rear end of your car, and
the trailer will be very difficult to hitch or unhitch. To protect your
back when removing the trailer from the car, use the hitch jack or have an
adult hang on the back of the boat to take some weight off the tongue.



NEVER OVERLOAD THE BOAT AND TRAILER. THE MAXIMUM WEIGHT IS 3500
POUNDS, AS SHOWN ON THE CERTIFICATION DECAL NEAR THE HITCH, ON THE LEFT
(PORT) SIDE OF YOUR TRAILER. Remember, the maximum gross vehicle weight
(G.V.W.R.) includes the weight of the trailer as well as the weight of the
boat and all gear in the boat. You may not deduct the weight that is
carried on the hitch of the car in arriving at the G.V.W.R. Check your
state law to determine if there are any other weight or braking requirements
that must be met.



MAKE SURE THE WHEEL LUG NUTS ARE TIGHT BEFORE TRAILERING THE BOAT.



BEFORE TRAILERING THE BOAT, MAKE SURE THE NOSE OF THE BOAT IS TIED
SECURELY TO THE TRAILER.



MAKE SURE THE OUTBOARD MOTOR AND MAST ARE ATTACHED FIRMLY TO THE BOAT
WHEN THE BOAT IS BEING TRAILERED.



DO NOT TRAILER THE BOAT WITH ANY WATER IN THE BALLAST TANK. THE 1400
POUNDS OF WATER WILL SEVERELY OVERLOAD THE TRAILER AND THE CAR. Open the
transom valve and vent, and drain the tank completely before trailering.
Leave the valve open when trailering.



DON'T STORE FUEL CANS INSIDE THE BOAT. Gas fumes are explosive. Keep
all gasoline containers out of the boat. Store fuel tanks in the open
compartments next to the steering pedestal.



BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS. TREAT THEM CAUTIOUSLY. Batteries can produce
explosive gas, corrosive acid and levels of electrical current high enough
to cause burns. Always wear eye protection or shield your eyes when working
near any battery and remove all metal rings and jewelry. Never expose a
battery to open flames or sparks. Do not smoke near a battery. It could
blow up. Do not allow battery acid to contact eyes, skin, fabrics or
painted surfaces. Flush any contacted area with water immediately and
thoroughly. Get medical help if eyes are affected. Do not charge the
battery, adjust post connections or use booster cables without making sure
the battery compartment is properly ventilated. When charging the battery,
carefully follow the instructions on the charger. Keep the battery filled
to the proper level with distilled water. Always keep vent caps tight. Do
not allow metal tools or metal parts to contact the positive (+) terminal
and the negative (-) terminal or any metal connected to these terminals.



DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE FOAM FLOTATION BLOCKS. Loss of any of the
foam could seriously impair the ability of the boat to stay afloat if
damaged.



IF THE CABIN OF THE BOAT IS ENTIRELY FILLED WITH WATER, AND THE BOAT
IS DEPENDENT ON THE FOAM FLOTATION TO KEEP IT AFLOAT, IT WILL BE VERY
UNSTABLE, AND MAY TURN UPSIDE DOWN.



WHEN RAISING AND LOWERING THE MAST, DON'T ALLOW ANYONE TO STAND WHERE
THE MAST OR SUPPORT WIRES COULD FALL IF SOMETHING, OR SOMEONE, LETS GO.



BE EXCEEDINGLY CAREFUL WHEN SAILING IN HIGH WINDS. LEARN BASIC
SEAMANSHIP. The Coast Guard Auxiliary Power Squadrons offer excellent
courses at low cost. This is a worthwhile investment.



BE READY TO RELEASE SAIL CONTROL LINES (SHEETS) QUICKLY IF A GUST OF
WIND CAUSES THE BOAT TO LEAN EXCESSIVELY. Lines should be free of kinks and
knots so they will run freely through the pulleys when it is necessary to
let the sails out quickly. Tie a knot in the extreme end of the line to
keep it in the pulley. Letting the lines go is your best protection from a
knockdown. For best performance and safety, keep the boat from leaning
(heeling) more than about 20 to 25 degrees.



ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE OUTBOARD MOTOR WHEN THE BOAT IS NEAR PEOPLE IN THE
WATER. EVEN WITH LOW HORSEPOWER MOTORS, THE PROPELLER CAN DO SERIOUS
DAMAGE. Don’t allow ropes to hang in the water (particularly the rudder
ropes). They could tangle in the prop and stop or damage the motor.



EXCEPT WHEN FILLING OR EMPTYING THE WATER TANK, NEVER OPERATE THE
BOAT WITHOUT SECURELY CLOSING THE TRANSOM VALVE AND THE VENT PLUG. If the
valve or vent plug is open, even slightly, the motion of the boat can drain
the ballast water from the tank or allow the boat to fill with water. If
either the vent plug or the filling valve is open, ballast can be lost when
the boat leans over under sail. You may think the tank is full, and that
the boat is self righting, but you may be unpleasantly surprised by an
unexpected capsize. If the transom valve is left open, the forward motion
of the boat can drain the tank, resulting in capsize.





DON'T PULL THE BOAT OVER ON ITS SIDE USING THE MAIN HALYARD. If you
have to tip the boat for maintenance or for any other reason, use the jib
halyard. Using the main halyard will break the mast.



NEVER POWER THE BOAT OVER 6 MILES PER HOUR WITH THE SAILS UP. The
forward speed of the boat can create enough wind to capsize the boat if the
sails are up. The result could be instant capsize. If the water tank is
empty, as it frequently is when powering, the boat will not be self
righting.



DO NOT SAIL OR POWER THE BOAT WITH THE STEERING SEAT IN THE RAISED
POSITION. If the motion of the boat or the wind causes the seat to fall
into the lowered position, someone could be hurt. Make sure the seat is
secured in the open position, with the snap cable to the lifeline, every
time it is opened.



DO NOT OVERLOAD THE BOAT. Six adults is the limit. With more than
this, the weight of the crew becomes very large in relation to the weight of
the boat, and the stability of the boat might be compromised. It is
important to use great care when carrying large crews to insure that the
weight is properly distributed so as not to cause undue tipping or
instability.



WHEN POWERING OVER 6 MPH, THE RUDDERS SHOULD BE IN THE FULL UP
POSITION. They can generate enormous sideways loads when the boat is moving
fast, and can contribute a lot of capsizing energy. With the rudders down
at high speed, you may damage the rudders or the steering system.



DO NOT OPERATE THE BOAT WITH A LOT OF WATER IN THE BILGE (OUTSIDE OF
THE BALLAST TANK). It can slosh around and seriously degrade stability.
Always keep your bilges dry. Check the bilge frequently.



SPECIAL WARNINGS ON STABILITY. After sailing a ballasted sailboat,
you get a bit spoiled and forget that unballasted boats, including the
MacGregor 26 with an empty water ballast tank, can capsize and will not
right themselves. This can happen under sail or under power. Here are a few
hints for keeping the boat on its feet when the ballast tank is not full.



Keep crew and passengers off of the cabin top and foredeck. The 26 is
big, but relatively light, and crew weight can be a very significant portion
of the overall weight. Misplaced crew or excessive crew weight can
overpower the basic stability of the boat. Be extremely cautious. Fill the
ballast tank when there are more than four people on the boat. Be extra
cautious when powering fast with more than 4 people on the boat.



Keep the crew weight aft, low in the boat, and centered from side to
side. Keep the crew in the cockpit, sitting down. The rear of the hull is
relatively flat, and the nose area has a deep V to allow the boat to slide
through waves with less slamming. If there is a lot of crew weight forward,
the flat part of the hull bottom, which normally provides the stability, is
raised higher out of the water, and is less effective in providing sideways
stability. With the crew weight forward, the nose is depressed. The deep V
nose shape does not contribute much to stability. When excess weight is at
the front of the boat, the less stable nose area is carrying more of the
weight of the boat and crew, the boat becomes far more easily capsized.
Keep weight off of the forward V berth when under way, and avoid storing
heavy items under the V berth. Crew members on the foredeck or cabin top
are far more likely to get bounced out of the boat than those in the cockpit
or inside the cabin. Anyone on the cabin top will have a natural tendency to
grab the mast or mast support wires if the boat tips. That puts a heavy
load high on the mast and tends to lever the boat over. Keep the weight
low. Obviously, it is best to have the crew positioned so the boat sits or
rides level rather than leaning to one side or the other.



Slow way down in waves or when powering with large crews. Waves come
in all shapes and sizes, and can yield some nasty surprises. Wave induced
problems, particularly with large crew loads, or crew weight high on the
boat, can cause an upset.

Watch the water ahead of you. Hitting heavy stuff in the water at
high speed can damage the boat or cause capsize. There is a lot of junk out
there that floats just at the surface, and it is often barely visible.
Bumping into something at sailing speeds is one thing, but at high speed, it
can be nasty.



The boat will be less stable with the mast up than with the mast down.
The mast is light, but it is up there, and, like any other weight aloft,
reduces stability. When conditions are marginal, (high winds, waves, lots
of crew weight, etc.), lower the mast and secure it to the pulpit and mast
carrier.



If you are operating where the chance of outside rescue is slim, where
conditions are rough, or where the water is cold and uninviting, fill the
ballast tank. You will go slower, but you will be a lot safer. A full
ballast tank gives greater safety.



Never sail or power with the ballast tank partially full (except for
the few minutes that it takes to drain the tank when you are under power).
With the water sloshing around in the tank, the center of gravity of the
water changes rapidly, which can make the boat relatively unstable. Fill
the tank full and make sure the vent and valves are securely closed. Be
extra cautious when the tank is filling or draining. Get the nose up and
drain the tank in the smoothest water you can find. Avoid fast stops and
starts, or turns, while the tank is draining. Be watchful that the water is
not pouring out of the vent hole into the boat. This may happen if the nose
gets too high. After you think the tank is empty, check the level with the
dip tube just to make sure.



Do not install a lifting hydrofoil on the cavitation plate of the
outboard motor. These are airfoil shaped wings, offered in various sizes
and shapes. Their purpose is to provide lift at the stern of the boat.
This raises the stern and forces the bow down, allowing the boat to get up
on a plane more quickly. If they do keep the boat level when coming up on a
plane, the ballast tank may not drain completely when the boat is underway.
You may think you have an empty tank, but you may not.



These hydrofoils create another problem when the boat turns or leans
sideways while underway. The lift that they provide goes straight up the
centerline of the outboard motor, adding a strong force to promote further
leaning or capsize.



These devices can exert a large amount of force; enough to snap off
the cavitation plate that is cast as part of the drive shaft housing. Avoid
them.

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 15:52:05 -0700, Frank wrote:

On Jun 11, 2:36 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:

Just for clarification, could you give some examples of words that are
not made
up?

Anything in the O.E.D. or in common usage. Examples? How about:


Really? If they were not made up, where did they come from?

CWM


They came from God of course! g

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"BB" wrote in message
...

never heard of a shipping container, eh genius?



I doubt the Mac26x/m would even be a good shipping
container. If they dropped
one a foot or two, it would open like a spring loaded
pinata.

BB

Natalie thinks it's SOP to 'drop' containers a ''foot or
two'' ?

SV

"Ed Gordon" wrote in message
8...

You just ain't to bright there, man! He meant putting the
Mac inside a
shipping container. Not using a Mac for a shipping
container.

Make a cradle padded with carpet to set the Mac on and
then slide it
right into the shipping container. Then pad it out with
styrofoam
peanuts or something like that. It would survive without a
scratch even
in a hurricane.


Oh boy, the blind leading the blind.

just put it on it's cheap flimsy trailer and roll into the
container. I believe you can get two in a 40' er. You have
to '69' them.

SBV

On Jun 12, 1:34 pm, "Scotty" wrote:
"BB" wrote in message

...

never heard of a shipping container, eh genius?

I doubt the Mac26x/m would even be a good shipping

container. If they dropped

one a foot or two, it would open like a spring loaded
pinata.

BB

Natalie thinks it's SOP to 'drop' containers a ''foot or
two'' ?

SV

He's playing the dumb blonde Natalie again, his S.O.Puppet on
alt.mastrabation.

ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

Joe

Ed Gordon wrote:
cavelamb himself wrote in
. net:


KLC Lewis wrote:

"Ed Gordon" wrote in message
.78...


I meant Cape of Good Hope. Sorry.

--
Cheerio,
Ed Gordon
http://www.freewebs.com/egordon873/index.htm


Ah, well that's a bit different. North America to South Africa is
only 7000 miles. Another 12,000 or so might put you in Australia, but
it's hard to say. There are no recognised cruising routes from Cape
of Good Hope to Australia -- perhaps you could write a book on it?



I'd be more willing to try that in my Catalina 18 than a Mac.
Sheesh!





But the Catalina 18 is relatively worthless in Australia. (or anywhere
else I guess) You must have missed the original post where they said a
new Mac26M was selling for $75,000 in Australia. That's seems like an
opportunity for some young adverturers to make some serious cash and put
some spice in their life.


I bought it for a completely different reason -

to sail.

Not FOR Sale.


Sheesh!

* Vic Smith wrote, On 6/12/2007 8:55 AM:
On Sun, 10 Jun 2007 19:44:33 -0400, Jeff wrote:
A PDQ 36 catamaran. More boat than you can even dream of.

The PDQ 36 is a quarter million dollar boat. Guess it's quite easy to
look down your nose at the lowly Mac 26.

I'm a bit offended that you think my opinions are shaded by the fact
that I have a larger boat. My current boat will probably be the only
larger, new boat I ever own - all of the others have been/will be
vintage and smaller.

If my wife would let me sell the house I might consider the PDQ, and
could then look down on the Mac myself.

Why would you "look down" on any boat? Almost all boats, the Mac
included, have their place. Contrary to Ed's delusions, I don't hate
the Mac. All I've done is point out that some of the outrageous
claims don't hold water.


Since she'd leave me, I could fit quite a few broads on that PDQ.
But that won't happen.
Some folks just want to get on the water in whatever they can afford.
I'm sure Ed Gordon's deep love of the Mac 26 is partly due to the
affordability factor, and that the price can even allow him the
opportunity of sailing or powering a *new* boat.

The Mac is only inexpensive if you want its particular feature set.

It isn't as roomy, as safe, or as fast as your PDQ, but it allows
him to get out there on the water.

There are many, many, MANY boats that would do the same. The issue is
which one do you want?

The bottom line for the Mac is that it has two distinguishing
features: It has a power boat inspired hull that permits it to make
use of the large engine, and it has maximized the interior space of a
street legal boat. However these features don't come without a cost.
Its virtually the slowest sailer you could buy. As a powerboat it
also has limitations - it isn't really that fast, and certainly
wouldn't be much fun in a real sea.

So if the two big features are truly big features for you, then maybe
the Mac is a good choice. I would strongly consider it if I wanted to
drive around the country and explore the inland lakes. But I think
you've already said that the large engine and the trailering are not
top priority for you, so I'm not sure why you're in love with the Mac.

Thanks for recommending the Marshall and Parker for gunkholing,
but they are impractical for me, and for most who would go with the
Mac 26. As you can see, the Marshall 22 starts at 68k:
http://www.marshallcat.com/M22Lines.htm
Looking at the option list, its safe to say the boat cost is about 3
times the cost of a Mac 26. It's a pretty boat, but out of my price
range. Looks like it isn't as roomy as the Mac, too.
And despite its looks and sailing qualities, some may find it as Cape
Cod precious.
My favorite option:
Cetol finish on teak - 4 coats 1,950.00
That's about what I pay for a car.

Well first of all, since I haven't been in the market for a trailer
sailer, and I didn't think you specified a price range, I wasn't
recommending the Marshall as "perfect" for you, only that its the boat
I would like when its time to downsize. (I also like the Nonsuch 22 &
26, but they aren't shallow draft.)

However, it has never occurred to me to get a new Marshall. These
boat are quite well made, and the $35K that you would pay for a Mac
would get you a rather high quality example. In fact of the 5
currently listed on YachtWorld, all are under 30K. These are
extremely solid hulls, simple rigs, strong diesels. The systems are
minimal - no gensets or A/C - so needed repairs would be minimal.
Frankly, I wouldn't be surprised if a used Marshall actually has fewer
problems than a new Mac.

As for space, the styles are quite different. Certainly the cockpit
on the Marshall is far more comfortable than the Mac, but it doesn't
have the two double bunks. Also, I'd expect the Marshall to be faster.

As to the Parker:
http://www.parkerboats.net/pages/boa....jsp?boatid=18
I didn't even look at the price, seeing the recommended power is
Yamaha Twin F150
Yamaha Twin F200
Right there before you get the boat you've exceeded the cost of the
Mac 26. Not to mention all the gas guzzling. I guess I could just
buy the Yammies and run them in barrels in the back yard, but I don't
want to.
To be fair, you could power the Parker more economically, or do the
same with this: http://www.rosboroughboats.com/sedan_cruiser.html
but the initial and operating costs would still be higher than most
Mac owners can or want to pay.

A number of the Parkers are single engine. Here in New England many
of the harbor masters use Parkers with twins and are able to do 50+
knots in a chop. I'd think about one engine plus a small "get home."

And again, these are boats that are built to last a long time in heavy
service. I wouldn't be afraid to buy a vintage model as long as the
engine was good.

Besides, despite its poor performance, people *do* sail the Macs.
I'm still a young man and have no inclination to go pure stink-pot,
even aside from my limited finances.

Like I said, I was just pointing out boats that have got my eye of late.

Jeff, though I appreciate your advice, I'm thinking more in line with
Capt'n Neal's website boat buying advice regarding price.
Trouble is the Capt'n is a deep keel, blue water, bristol fashion
sailor.

You really drank the Kool-aid on that one!!!

But Neal is right that your first boat should be simple and cheap.
This will be a learning experience, both learning how to care for a
boat, and learning what kind of boat you want.

And I just want a fairly comfortable gunkholer.

Is there some reason why you need a new boat?

Still, I'm afraid the Mac 26 series might be more boat than I can
afford, so when I'm ready I'll have to study the Captain's site again,
and ask the kind people here for advice.
Hey, lot's of different boat ideas here, and a perfect example of the
old saw "That's what makes the world go around."
Or is that sex?
Pretty damn neat anyway, and I sure do learn a lot about boats here.
Can't wait until I start sailing and buy my first splicing fid.
Sitting on a gently rocking boat in a subtropical harbor, now and then
a fish jumping in the air, its splashing re-entry the only contention
to the gentle breeze in rippling the water, as the sun makes its final
arc over the palm shaded horizon, I lackadaisically splice a halyard
with my fid. A cold beer by my side of course. Oh yeah!

--Vic