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![]() OzOne wrote in message ... On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 01:32:36 GMT, "John Cairns" scribbled thusly: OzOne wrote in message . .. He didn't mention having a "well built system", simply a typical 1-2 All battery selector switch, which does nothing to regulate charge. I would have thought that if he had a "well built system" he would have nmentioned it and indeed, probably never have asked the question in the first place, as he would have had no need to. Which reminds me of the fact that I don't have a "well built system" on my own boat, possibly a project to tackle this year. John Cairns John, the regulator regulates charge. When a battery is charged it simply stops charging....what would you do after all batteries were charged and yet you still needed the engine....Unplug wires? Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" Good section on battery charging, with brief and easy-to-understand explanations as to how alternators/batteries work in both automotive/marine applications, the differences between those two very different types of alternators. In a nutshell, automotive alternators/regulators are designed to charge batteries that are never typically deeply discharged, marine alternators/regulators are designed to charge deep cycle batteries that are typically discharged to half of their capacity. You might note the term alternator/regulator, we're talking about a typical automotive or marine alternator that has an integrated regulator, not a seperate regulator like those made by Heart or Ample Charge as part of a proper charging system on a sailboat. Suggest you buy the book, hours of reading on mechanical/electrical systems on boats, with an emphasis on sailboats, at least that's my impression, though it could simply be bias. John Cairns Yes John, you do have a regulator so it is just not possible to overcharge a battery unless there is a problem with that regulator. IOW, You could motor your sailboat a dozen times around the world with the battery switch set to one bank and never overcharge that bank. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. "In typical automotive use we have a thin plate cranking battery that is rarely discharged by more than a small percentage of it's capacity. The act of cranking draws the charge from the surface of the plates, which are then recharged before the battery has time to equalize internally-the inner plates retain their charge. In general, the engine and alternator run far longer than is needed to replace this charge. Little charge is needed; it has to be applied only to the surface areas of the plates; and we have excess charging time. In this undemanding environment voltage regulator settings are kept deliberately low in order to avoid damaging the battery through overcharging during extended periods of engine running time. In contrast, in many marine applications a thick-plate deep-cycle battery is deeply discharged over a long period of time, allowing the battery to equalize internally and so draining the charge from the inaccessible inner-plate areas. The engine and alternator are then run for far less time than is needed to restore a full charge. If a typical automotive regulator voltage setting of around 14.0 volts(for a 12 volt system) is used during charging, the rising surface voltage of the battery will cause the regulator to curtail alternator output soon after the battery is 50% charged, which is well before battery safety demands that it be cut back. This unnecessarily prolongs charging times. Since a well designed deep cycle battery bank will be cycling primarily in the region of 50% to 80% of full charge, a typical regulator cripples charging performance in the region of interest to boat owners! As a result, many batteries are perennially undercharged, and die prematurely from sulphation. In addition, if battery charging is accomplished by running the boat's main engine at anchor, the engine will run long hours at low loads to little effect, except to increase wear, tear, and maintenance. In these circumstances the charge rate needs to be accelerated to the limit the batteries can accept, driving the voltage(pressure) as high as can be tolerated, so that the inner plate areas will be charged as rapidly as possible. But if a regulator's voltage setting is raised to produce the maximum safe charge rate in the 50% to 80% of full charge region, during extended periods of engine running the batteries will be overcharged. This will result in an excessive loss of electrolyte, destruction of the positive plate grids, and perhaps overheating and buckling of the battery plates. The dilemma is clear. In many pleasure boat situations, batteries are periodically discharged deeply (to at least the 50% level), but charging times are restricted. Thus, fast charges are required, which calls for higher voltage regulator settings than in automotive applications; otherwise the batteries will suffer from undercharging, sulphation, and a permanent loss of capacity. But if voltage regulator settings are raised, extended engine running will likely overcharge the batteries, causing excessive gassing and plate damage". Nigel Calder "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" The key, IMHO, is how batteries discharge and accept charges. John Cairns |
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