"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 04:43:31 GMT, "Maxprop"
wrote:


"Capt. Rob" wrote in message
oups.com...
I wonder if Doug has ever seen a *good Irwin.*





I've never seen any older boat with a wood core in the deck remain dry;
not
even the end-grain balsa cores. A friend's Tartan 34 is so wet over the
forepeak that it squishes when walked upon. Irwins are no worse than
others
in this regard, but the glasswork and layup quality just isn't in the same
league as more expensive boats.

Max

As a sample of one, my experience has been that if a manufacturer puts
fasteners into the core without going all the way through, you are
much more likely to get core rot. I repaired quite a bit of it and
found it all related to that practice. I had a hatch cowl, head
ventilator, several escutcheon plates, and some others which were all
caulk and screw into the core. All eventually resulted in core rot.
When I repaired it I converted all of those to through bolt. I never
had to repair any more core rot. Sure did slice a lot of balsa on my
band saw to make the repairs. Kind of like slicing loaves of bread on
the end grain.

I wont even put a canvas snap into the core since that experience. If
I want a cover, I'll make a decorative teak backer, through bolt it
and then put the snaps into it.

Damned if I can recall what manufacturer did this, but I recall seeing a
boat on which all thru-bolts were first drilled oversize, then filled with
solid resin--epoxy, I presume--and then redrilled to the proper, smaller
diameter. No way any moisture could get into the core with that system. I
have Airex foam cores in my hull and deck, but I still do the same thing if
installing something. It makes for a lot of work, but it's a safe system.
I also overdrill holes into the core through just one laminate (snaps, for
example) and fill them with epoxy, too. Probably overkill in my case, since
Airex won't absorb moisture at all.

Max