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And where do you get this material?
Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
It may be mixed with tuna fat to form a handy paste.
Scout "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
He Read it and weep.
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/ar...693558,00.html "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
S'funny but Al tuna boats are very common.
Cheers Scout wrote: It may be mixed with tuna fat to form a handy paste. Scout "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
I don't doubt that Hg attacks Al - asked you where you get Hg paste.
Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: He Read it and weep. http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/ar...693558,00.html "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
underground
part of the WMD arsenal. it was part of the taliban plan to destroy the US Navy. gf "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
In article ,
=?Windows-1252?Q?Capt._Neal=AE?= wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. Crapton knows all about using his hand. -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
I'm sure any good chemical supply house would have it.
It is not illegal (yet). CN "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
I see. Perhaps they thought using fulminate of mercury plus weed killer
was the same thing? Cheers gonefishiing wrote: underground part of the WMD arsenal. it was part of the taliban plan to destroy the US Navy. gf "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
Sigma doesn't list it.
Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I'm sure any good chemical supply house would have it. It is not illegal (yet). CN "Nav" wrote in message ... And where do you get this material? Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: I said mercury paste. Mercury at room temp is a liquid and difficult to hold in the palm of one's hand while mercury paste is similar to paste wax and can be held and smeared on by hand. "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
Nav wrote:
Your motor boat did not have blisters along the water line? Yep. The blisters were in no way an "osmosis problem" since it was all on the surface and affected only the old layers of paint. DSK |
It's Popular Science magazine - an established and
reputable publication. Photos don't lie unless doctored in Photoshop. The article says mercury paste was used. That means it's available. Just because I personally don't know where to get it is not germane to the situation at hand. Where's your logic lately? CN "Nav" wrote in message ... I don't doubt that Hg attacks Al - asked you where you get Hg paste. Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: He Read it and weep. http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/ar...693558,00.html "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
Idiot! Paint blisters on the waterline are also called osmotic blisters.
Duh!!! CN "DSK" wrote in message .. . Nav wrote: Your motor boat did not have blisters along the water line? Yep. The blisters were in no way an "osmosis problem" since it was all on the surface and affected only the old layers of paint. DSK |
Capt. Neal® wrote:
Paint blisters on the waterline are also called osmotic blisters. Not if there is no osmosis, at least, not by anybody who has a clue. DSK |
Capt. Neal® wrote:
No osmosis? Then how on God's green Earth do you think those little blisters formed? Easy. Some bonehead (possibly a relative of yours) did not do the correct surface prep on the hull. Then another person of approximately the same mental capacity sanded through the barrier coat, allowing water between the fiberglass and the layers of paint. Osmotic blisters in fiberglass are a totally different thing from blistered paint, which can occur on cars or houses... DSK |
Duh,
Blistered paint at the waterline is caused by osmosis, unless you find those blisters filled with air. CN "DSK" wrote in message .. . Capt. Neal® wrote: No osmosis? Then how on God's green Earth do you think those little blisters formed? Easy. Some bonehead (possibly a relative of yours) did not do the correct surface prep on the hull. Then another person of approximately the same mental capacity sanded through the barrier coat, allowing water between the fiberglass and the layers of paint. Osmotic blisters in fiberglass are a totally different thing from blistered paint, which can occur on cars or houses... DSK |
Capt. Neal® wrote:
Duh, Blistered paint at the waterline is caused by osmosis, unless you find those blisters filled with air. Is that what happened to your head? DSK |
In article ,
DSK wrote: Capt. Neal® wrote: No osmosis? Then how on God's green Earth do you think those little blisters formed? Easy. Some bonehead (possibly a relative of yours) did not do the correct surface prep on the hull. Then another person of approximately the same mental capacity sanded through the barrier coat, allowing water between the fiberglass and the layers of paint. Osmotic blisters in fiberglass are a totally different thing from blistered paint, which can occur on cars or houses... Neal's head.... -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
In article ,
DSK wrote: Capt. Neal® wrote: Duh, Blistered paint at the waterline is caused by osmosis, unless you find those blisters filled with air. Is that what happened to your head? DSK Doug, you're stealing my lines.... -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
Jonathan Ganz wrote:
Doug, you're stealing my lines.... Sorry, I didn't do it on purpose. DSK |
It is a well-known fact that he who resorts to name-calling
or profanity first has acknowledged he has lost the argument. A nice thank you offered for educating you would have been more manly CN "DSK" wrote in message .. . Capt. Neal® wrote: Duh, Blistered paint at the waterline is caused by osmosis, unless you find those blisters filled with air. Is that what happened to your head? DSK |
In article ,
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Capt._Neal=AE?= wrote: It is a well-known fact that he who resorts to name-calling or profanity first has acknowledged he has lost the argument. Hahahahaha.... talk about the pot calling the kettle black.... -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
Well if you can't get it what's the point of suggesting it? You might
have just as well said it burns better than steel. Now if you want to corrode steel just sprinkle salt on it... Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: It's Popular Science magazine - an established and reputable publication. Photos don't lie unless doctored in Photoshop. The article says mercury paste was used. That means it's available. Just because I personally don't know where to get it is not germane to the situation at hand. Where's your logic lately? CN "Nav" wrote in message ... I don't doubt that Hg attacks Al - asked you where you get Hg paste. Cheers Capt. Neal® wrote: He Read it and weep. http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/ar...693558,00.html "Nav" wrote in message ... Capt. Neal® wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. Hahahha. A handful of mercury? A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. How about salt water and time? Cheers |
You have no gel coat?
Cheers DSK wrote: Capt. Neal® wrote: No osmosis? Then how on God's green Earth do you think those little blisters formed? Easy. Some bonehead (possibly a relative of yours) did not do the correct surface prep on the hull. Then another person of approximately the same mental capacity sanded through the barrier coat, allowing water between the fiberglass and the layers of paint. Osmotic blisters in fiberglass are a totally different thing from blistered paint, which can occur on cars or houses... DSK |
Nav wrote:
You have no gel coat? Well, I'd be the better for losing a few pounds... oh you mean the boat... No. The tugboat was peeled & barrier coated long ago. There is a brief and ambiguous line in the maintenance log that I think refers to it. Anyway, the barrier coat may not have been well applied or it may have failed due to subsequent poor handling... grinding through it in a few dozen small spots is not good. However, the fiberglass is all perfectly sound. There was no osmosis into the laminate at all... in fact, not even any stranded spots (places where the mat wasn't saturated with resin). Very careful and close inspection of the whole thing, including the thru-hulls and rudder post aperture, revealed no trouble. I'm confident that our coating was put on correctly (if yoou want something done right etc etc) and the hull is both perfectly sound & well protected for the future. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Here we peel boats only to fix osmosis problems so, was that the case?
Cheers DSK wrote: Nav wrote: You have no gel coat? Well, I'd be the better for losing a few pounds... oh you mean the boat... No. The tugboat was peeled & barrier coated long ago. There is a brief and ambiguous line in the maintenance log that I think refers to it. Anyway, the barrier coat may not have been well applied or it may have failed due to subsequent poor handling... grinding through it in a few dozen small spots is not good. However, the fiberglass is all perfectly sound. There was no osmosis into the laminate at all... in fact, not even any stranded spots (places where the mat wasn't saturated with resin). Very careful and close inspection of the whole thing, including the thru-hulls and rudder post aperture, revealed no trouble. I'm confident that our coating was put on correctly (if yoou want something done right etc etc) and the hull is both perfectly sound & well protected for the future. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:49:47 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap: It may be mixed with tuna fat to form a handy paste. I've never seen fat tunas. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Capt. Neal® wrote:
Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. Is your new incarnation some sort of Jax spawn? You sound more like him every post. Rick |
Nav wrote:
Here we peel boats only to fix osmosis problems so, was that the case? How would I know? It was years ago. It's possible, but it's also possible that the gelcoat was peeled in excessnzeal. In any event, the fiberglass of the hull is perfectly sound and shows not the slightest trace of osmosis. You can see the surface quite well in many of our boatyard pictures; and also see most of the stages of our application of a new barrier coat. Why are you so worried about it? I suggest you read http://www.yachtsurvey.com/blisters.htm it's certainly not the whole story, but it's a good start. DSK |
Capt. Neal® wrote in message news:311ngtF368ot9U1@uni-
I would go whole hog and have it made from stainless steel. After all, the premise is you won the lottery and money is no object. CN Hog wild would be Nickle copper, you would never have to put on bottom paint. Joe |
do you deny the existence of tuna fat?
Scout "Horvath" wrote in message ... On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:49:47 GMT, "Scout" wrote this crap: It may be mixed with tuna fat to form a handy paste. I've never seen fat tunas. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:56:54 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap: do you deny the existence of tuna fat? Scout I've never seen any. "Horvath" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:49:47 GMT, "Scout" wrote this crap: It may be mixed with tuna fat to form a handy paste. I've never seen fat tunas. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
In article ,
Horvath wrote: On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:56:54 GMT, "Scout" wrote this crap: do you deny the existence of tuna fat? Scout I've never seen any. Your tits get in the way! -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
In article , Capt. NealÆ
wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. Bwahahahahahahaha. It's obvious you know SQRT(f**k-all) about metallurgy. S/steel is not a good metal to have in continuous contact with seawater. My biggest objection to aluminium is that its abrasion resistance is low compared with steel and its ultimate failure point is too close to its deformation point. Steel is a lot more ductile but does require good barrier coats to keep rust at bay. If money is no object, you build out of cupro-nickel. PDW |
Peter Wiley wrote in message ...
In article , Capt. NealÆ wrote: Aluminum is relatively worthless for a boat hull. All it takes to completely destroy the hull of an aluminum hulled vessel is a handful of mercury past smeared on it. It will begin to turn to dust within hours, break apart and sink. A stainless steel boat is impervious to just about anything but strong acids. Bwahahahahahahaha. It's obvious you know SQRT(f**k-all) about metallurgy. S/steel is not a good metal to have in continuous contact with seawater. My biggest objection to aluminium is that its abrasion resistance is low compared with steel and its ultimate failure point is too close to its deformation point. Steel is a lot more ductile but does require good barrier coats to keep rust at bay. If money is no object, you build out of cupro-nickel. PDW Whats cupro-nickel? And why? I hear nickle copper is best, the copper is a perfect antifoulant. Joe |
The larger the vessel the more difficult it is to
manuever and stop. I wanted to be clear the issue in this question was with respect to backing down. The thrustors provide good side-to-side control and eliminate that factor from the question. Could it have be written more clearly? The variable pitch allows the throttle to be set and forgotten while pitch controls linear thrust--magnitude and direction. There are no worries about engine stalling while changing gears, or cables jamming or snapping, all of which have happened to me in the past, and each of which could be bad news docking and manuevering a mega yacht. Bart Senior Nav wrote otnmbrd wrote: Nav wrote: There's no need for variable pitch -which is why you don't see it in mega yacht thrusters Cheers FT. I believe the discussion regarded the Main Engine, not the thrusters I thought it was 'bout the whole propulksion package 'cos he mentioned dual thrusters. If just about main engine that's a really boring question. Cheers |
I agree. Aluminum is light and the cost of
steel is high right now. Two of my friends are rebuilding and old steel boat into an Oysterboat, and constantly complain about the cost of steel. Bart Nav wrote Stainless steel is not a cure all for corrosion problems -it's also heavy for a yacht. Aluminum seems a more common solution. Cheers |
N1EE wrote:
The larger the vessel the more difficult it is to manuever and stop. I wanted to be clear the issue in this question was with respect to backing down. The thrustors provide good side-to-side control and eliminate that factor from the question. Could it have be written more clearly? The variable pitch allows the throttle to be set and forgotten while pitch controls linear thrust--magnitude and direction. There are no worries about engine stalling while changing gears, or cables jamming or snapping, all of which have happened to me in the past, and each of which could be bad news docking and manuevering a mega yacht. Bart Senior It's not quite that simple. First off, thrusters quickly lose their efficiency, as soon as you start moving ahead/astern. You need to keep your speed (generally) below 4K through the water to maintain good thruster power. Since it's difficult to make a prop that is really efficient, with a simple flat blade, most variable pitch will tend to walk to some degree, at all settings .... good news is it's always the same direction. Also, especially with use, most variable pitch will pick up a tendency to "creep" either ahead or astern when the settings are at zero pitch, so you end up having to "tinker" with the controls. Overall, I have a Love/Hate relationship with variable pitch. In some cases I'm damn glad I had it, while in others, damn glad I didn't. Naturally, if it's the one system you are using, many of the minor drawbacks will become second nature for you to use or avoid. otn |
No props. A set of Kamewah water jets.
Rick |
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