Went to a seminar on singlehanding or single watchstanding safety. The
panel members have all solo circunavigated. Lots of good info but here are
three I wanted to sha

1) When securing the vang to the boom don't rely on just the under boom
fitting. Also pass a canvas or cloth strop from the end of the vang over the
boom, under the sail. This works unless you have a bolt rope. The idea is to
put the strain on the top of the boom and spread it out rather than on a
fitting underneath that will eventually break due to fatigue of metal.

2) Instead of relying on the single length tether on your safety harness put
one in the cockpit (two if the foreward one won't reach aft to the wind vane
etc., one by the vang, one by the stays'l and one by the jib/forestay and
anchor area plus one by the mast. Make each one the right length for what
you are doing. For example the one at the mast should be short, maybe a foot
to 18". Then use the regular one to get from spot to spot along the
jacklines. (side note ) I learned to run a second line from the upper end of
the bow pulpit up to just about elbow height on the lower shroud and then
down to the pushpit. Set so that boom and jib sheet etc. clear. When go
forward in rough seas you have deck jackline, toe rail, two lifelines (to
30" high) and this higher line so you are caught toe, above the knee and
just below the shoulder.

3) Running Rigging - As a rule of thumb figure they will last 30,000 nm. Cut
them at least 10' longer than normal. Then every 3,000 nm cut off a foot and
move everything along the route, through the blocks etc, to a new sport.
This keeps the line from wearing in only one spot as it lays in the sheaves.
Also means you don't have to end for end quite so much. That can be done at
15,000 nm at which point you reverse the procedure. So there's three good
ideas I came away with!

Michael

Went to a seminar on singlehanding


I hope you didn't go alone.

RB

Ha HA LOL .. there were 30-40 of us all in our own little world plus one
moderator instructor

"Bobsprit" wrote in message
...
Went to a seminar on singlehanding


I hope you didn't go alone.

RB

Good points Edgar. What I passed on was what came straight from the seminar
panel. So while I can't answer your questions for them I will point out
they were solo circumnavigators. Let's see if I can dredge the memory for
clarification. Wire wasn't mentioned. All synthetic I should have
specified that. Didn't think of it because I don't use wire. The
individual who liked the extra ten feet had all lines run to the base of the
mast. I use some on mast and some in cockpit but since I coil lines and
stow them after each use I've never had a clutter problem. Probably an
issue in racing but I don't see a problem for cruising.. Figures on wear and
tear were those given by a couple of the rigging shops based on their
experience one being Brian Toss who does a lot of cruising and transpac
work. I think they are high myself given the conditions and constant strain
and asked about that and the answer was in the quality, strength and size of
the line. Definitely in the higher price category.

Hope that helped.

M.

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael
Newsgroups: alt.sailing.asa
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 4:08 AM
Subject: Sailing Seminar Tips

(snipped)


3) Running Rigging - As a rule of thumb figure they will last 30,000 nm.
Cut
them at least 10' longer than normal. Then every 3,000 nm cut off a foot
and
move everything along the route, through the blocks etc, to a new sport.
(snip)

Well, I don't think that is a good idea at all.
Have you considered the nuisance value of an extra 10' or so on every piece
of running rigging
cluttering up your cockpit and deck and impeding safe movement about
the vessel?
Also, if it is wire, it is going to overfill your winch drums and I would
not trust wire that has spent a considerable time lying tightly wound on a
drum, cut off from air circulation and probably retaining damp most of the
time.
The idea of moving the wire to a new spot is also flawed. A wire that has
lain in a tight curve on a sheave until its fatigue life approaches is not
going to be reliable if you move it to a new position and expect it to
undergo a new life cycle when you subject it to stress in a straight line. I
believe in keeping all running rigging as short as possible and then you
always know where to look for signs of fatigue, as it will always be the
part that goes over the sheave.
I also have doubts as to whether miles sailed is the right criterion for
rigging replacement.
Edgar

Edgar,

Loose line in the cockpit, to me, is the the biggest PITA I can think
of. On a halyard, though, The ends are only loose when setting sail and
taking them down. The rest of the time they are coiled and secured in
place. I see no problem with an extra three or four coils.and as you say
the wear is usually at the sheeve, about 10 to 18 inches from the end.
Cutting makes sense to me rather than turning end for end.

Sheets are another story. They are much more active lines and always
seem to be the line I'm standing on when trying to gather them up.
However, they are the easier line to inspect and turn end for end.

So, I use both methods.

Now, I'm more than welcome to any system to reduce replacement on my
Lazy Jacks!!!

Ole Thom

I attach a Double Mamba to my harness, and use it often.
I also have a short tether permanently attached to my offshore
life jacket. It works great and comes in handy attaching things
like handheld VHFs.

I picked these up after I almost lost a crew overboard. She was
hanging onto the shrouds being dragged through the water. I
found I didn't have the strength to haul her up with one arm.
So I decided I needed a short tether.

http://www.northernmountain.com/NMSM...at=CLC&SubCat=


"Michael" wrote


2) Instead of relying on the single length tether on your safety harness
put
one in the cockpit (two if the foreward one won't reach aft to the wind
vane
etc., one by the vang, one by the stays'l and one by the jib/forestay and
anchor area plus one by the mast. Make each one the right length for what
you are doing. For example the one at the mast should be short, maybe a
foot
to 18". Then use the regular one to get from spot to spot along the
jacklines. (side note ) I learned to run a second line from the upper end
of
the bow pulpit up to just about elbow height on the lower shroud and then
down to the pushpit. Set so that boom and jib sheet etc. clear. When go
forward in rough seas you have deck jackline, toe rail, two lifelines (to
30" high) and this higher line so you are caught toe, above the knee and
just below the shoulder.

"Bart Senior" wrote:
I picked these up after I almost lost a crew overboard. She was
hanging onto the shrouds being dragged through the water. I
found I didn't have the strength to haul her up with one arm.
So I decided I needed a short tether.

I'm sure that's the only way you could keep a woman!

LP

"Bart Senior" wrote

I picked these up after I almost lost a crew overboard. She was
hanging onto the shrouds being dragged through the water.

You really need to get a head on your boat.

Scotty

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
"Bart Senior" wrote

I picked these up after I almost lost a crew overboard. She was
hanging onto the shrouds being dragged through the water.

You really need to get a head on your shoulders.

I've corrected your spelling mistake.

Regards


Donal
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