|
Seamanship Question #5
Your temp gauge is fluxuating.
What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] |
Seamanship Question #5
Bart Senior wrote:
Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] You're on a mac and running the friggin' engine instead of sailing? Jeff |
Seamanship Question #5
You're passing over an eddy of the Gulf Stream?
"Bart Senior" wrote in message t... Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] |
Seamanship Question #5
Right, and the south won the civil war.
1 lash for you. Jefferson Davis wrote Bart Senior wrote: Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] You're on a mac and running the friggin' engine instead of sailing? Jeff |
Seamanship Question #5
Do you mean fluctuating? If so, then you might have a clog
in the intake or the impeller might need to be replaced. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Bart Senior" wrote in message t... Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] |
Seamanship Question #5
I'll give myself a lash for misspelling it.
Oops I meant flatulence. What is the most likely cause? *************************** Seriously, I meant "fluc·tu·at·ing" as in "to vary irregularly". Specifically, if your "engine" temperature gauge is fluctuating, what is the most likely cause? [1 pt] Jeff Morris wrote You're passing over an eddy of the Gulf Stream? |
Seamanship Question #5
Well right away there are a lot more pressing issues.... like what the hell
is your engine even on for??? Look it's a friggin' "Auxiliary".... my 'gauge is a light and horn! ........ other than that I'd shut down and check the raw water intake. Then work my way back to the intake filter, hose connections and impeller. The oil could cause that but it should be checked prior to daily start up. Belts etc would follow..... but generally your alarm should sound prior to a fluctuating gauge. CM "Bart Senior" wrote in message t... | Your temp gauge is fluxuating. | | What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? "Bart Senior" wrote in message et... I'll give myself a lash for misspelling it. Oops I meant flatulence. What is the most likely cause? *************************** Seriously, I meant "fluc·tu·at·ing" as in "to vary irregularly". Specifically, if your "engine" temperature gauge is fluctuating, what is the most likely cause? [1 pt] Jeff Morris wrote You're passing over an eddy of the Gulf Stream? |
Seamanship Question #5
Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts???
Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? CM "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
Hey... I got there first!
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message ... Well right away there are a lot more pressing issues.... like what the hell is your engine even on for??? Look it's a friggin' "Auxiliary".... my 'gauge is a light and horn! ....... other than that I'd shut down and check the raw water intake. Then work my way back to the intake filter, hose connections and impeller. The oil could cause that but it should be checked prior to daily start up. Belts etc would follow..... but generally your alarm should sound prior to a fluctuating gauge. CM "Bart Senior" wrote in message t... | Your temp gauge is fluxuating. | | What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Obviously not.... you seem to be protesting the fact I've grasped the brass
ring. CM "Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... | Hey... I got there first! |
Seamanship Question #5
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior"
wrote this crap: Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] The temperature is going up and down. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a
partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look there first if there was any significant change. However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is fully loaded. BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message ... Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? CM "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P
Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of Yanmar Pumps! CM "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look | there first if there was any significant change. | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is | fully loaded. | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | ... | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow | prior to questioning your instruments? | | CM | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | ... | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant | buffer, so | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its | probably | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. | I've | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
....and you back up to a mooring stern first... Bwahahahahahahahaha!!!
The Martha Stewart of the sailing world that places a cup of bleach in the bilge!! Bwahahahahahahahahaaaa CM "Horvath" wrote in message ... | On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior" | wrote this crap: | | Your temp gauge is fluxuating. | | What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] | | | | The temperature is going up and down. | | | | | | Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
Sigh....
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message ... Obviously not.... you seem to be protesting the fact I've grasped the brass ring. CM "Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... | Hey... I got there first! |
Seamanship Question #5
Good Grief CM, since you gave it away, CM's real
name is Charlie Brown. They started calling him Charlie Moron when he was little and it stuck. Capt. Mooron wrote Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? CM "Jeff Morris" wrote | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
I thought it was a brilliant answer. Way to go Horass!
Bart, you should give him a point. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message ... ...and you back up to a mooring stern first... Bwahahahahahahahaha!!! The Martha Stewart of the sailing world that places a cup of bleach in the bilge!! Bwahahahahahahahahaaaa CM "Horvath" wrote in message ... | On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior" | wrote this crap: | | Your temp gauge is fluxuating. | | What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] | | | | The temperature is going up and down. | | | | | | Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
1 point for you Jeff.
The correct answer is Coolant level. When the coolant is low it can steam and vary the sensor reading. I had a problem with overheating on a freinds boat on Wednesday. I was on a tight schedule to get some kids to a class they were taking and had to rely on the engine to meet schedule, but didn't quite make it.. As I reconstructed the problem, the strainer which consisted of a metal basket with its strap hoop handle was installed improperly. My guess is the stainless strap partially blocked the raw water intake. It worked fine until the engine was rev'ed up a bit where upon the flow was not satisfactory. In and out of the slip under power would not reveal the problem. Anyway, the engine overheated and thrashed the impeller, or perhaps vice versa. The coolant boiled off and needed to be replaced. The fix was to bend the strainer strap into an "M" shape, because I could not tighten it enough to close the cap--well perhaps I could have, but I was worried about breaking the studs holding it down. That would have meant a new strainer. The impeller installed fine until I had to install the circlip which sprung off and disappeared--I never found it. A friend ran one up to me. I found all the impeller pieces except one which may turn up in the heat exchanger. I'll let the owner deal with that one. Jeff, your impeller problem is weird. I didn't think the impeller could spin on it's shaft. Didn't it have a keyed bushing of some sort? Bart Jeff Morris wrote The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look there first if there was any significant change. However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is fully loaded. BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. "Capt. Mooron" wrote Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? "Jeff Morris" wrote | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
North or South of the equator?
S/V Express 30 "Ringmaster" "Trains are a winter sport" |
Seamanship Question #5
2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
and the cover comes off, no tools. second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" wrote: I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of Yanmar Pumps! CM "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look | there first if there was any significant change. | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is | fully loaded. | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | ... | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow | prior to questioning your instruments? | | CM | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | ... | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant | buffer, so | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its | probably | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. | I've | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Well, we had a problem with the intake being blocked and
the impeller not functioning well. That caused temp fluctuation as you described. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Bart Senior" wrote in message . .. 1 point for you Jeff. The correct answer is Coolant level. When the coolant is low it can steam and vary the sensor reading. I had a problem with overheating on a freinds boat on Wednesday. I was on a tight schedule to get some kids to a class they were taking and had to rely on the engine to meet schedule, but didn't quite make it.. As I reconstructed the problem, the strainer which consisted of a metal basket with its strap hoop handle was installed improperly. My guess is the stainless strap partially blocked the raw water intake. It worked fine until the engine was rev'ed up a bit where upon the flow was not satisfactory. In and out of the slip under power would not reveal the problem. Anyway, the engine overheated and thrashed the impeller, or perhaps vice versa. The coolant boiled off and needed to be replaced. The fix was to bend the strainer strap into an "M" shape, because I could not tighten it enough to close the cap--well perhaps I could have, but I was worried about breaking the studs holding it down. That would have meant a new strainer. The impeller installed fine until I had to install the circlip which sprung off and disappeared--I never found it. A friend ran one up to me. I found all the impeller pieces except one which may turn up in the heat exchanger. I'll let the owner deal with that one. Jeff, your impeller problem is weird. I didn't think the impeller could spin on it's shaft. Didn't it have a keyed bushing of some sort? Bart Jeff Morris wrote The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look there first if there was any significant change. However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is fully loaded. BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. "Capt. Mooron" wrote Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? "Jeff Morris" wrote | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
I walked into a boiler room once and saw the "engineer" wire nutting two
ends of a capillary tube together. I said, "what are you doing?" and he replied, "I'm installing an indoor/outdoor thermometer and I didn't want to drill a hole as big as that sensing bulb, so I cut and am splicing the wire back together." My next question was, "how did you get an engineer's license?" and he replied, "I'm a retired cop, people owe me favors." God's honest truth. Scout "Horvath" wrote in message ... On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior" wrote this crap: Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] The temperature is going up and down. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.
CM "Marc" wrote in message ... | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws | and the cover comes off, no tools. | | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. | | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | wrote: | | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P | | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of | Yanmar Pumps! | | CM | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | ... | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd | look | | there first if there was any significant change. | | | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't | change | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've | seen | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling | wire. | | | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive | the | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned | on | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is | a bit | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator | is | | fully loaded. | | | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after | dropping | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It | put it | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. | We | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have | two | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no | intake | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with | the | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water | pump, | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the | cover | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but | my | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare | was | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. | | | | | | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | | ... | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the | belts??? | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant | flow | | prior to questioning your instruments? | | | | CM | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | ... | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant | | buffer, so | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, | its | | probably | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping | belt. | | I've | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly | but I | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | | | | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
So if the coolant "boiled off" why didn't that set off major alarms rather than
just temp fluctuations? And if it did get that hot, wouldn't it be prudent to replace the hoses? I never would have thought it was possible for an impeller to fail like that until there was a mention of it in rec.boats.cruising a month ago ... maybe there was a bad batch. The key on the shaft was fine so the problem is inside the impeller itself. I talked to Mack Boring (East Coast Distributor) on Friday because it was new this season. They said its rare but not unheard of. "Bart Senior" wrote in message . .. 1 point for you Jeff. The correct answer is Coolant level. When the coolant is low it can steam and vary the sensor reading. I had a problem with overheating on a freinds boat on Wednesday. I was on a tight schedule to get some kids to a class they were taking and had to rely on the engine to meet schedule, but didn't quite make it.. As I reconstructed the problem, the strainer which consisted of a metal basket with its strap hoop handle was installed improperly. My guess is the stainless strap partially blocked the raw water intake. It worked fine until the engine was rev'ed up a bit where upon the flow was not satisfactory. In and out of the slip under power would not reveal the problem. Anyway, the engine overheated and thrashed the impeller, or perhaps vice versa. The coolant boiled off and needed to be replaced. The fix was to bend the strainer strap into an "M" shape, because I could not tighten it enough to close the cap--well perhaps I could have, but I was worried about breaking the studs holding it down. That would have meant a new strainer. The impeller installed fine until I had to install the circlip which sprung off and disappeared--I never found it. A friend ran one up to me. I found all the impeller pieces except one which may turn up in the heat exchanger. I'll let the owner deal with that one. Jeff, your impeller problem is weird. I didn't think the impeller could spin on it's shaft. Didn't it have a keyed bushing of some sort? Bart Jeff Morris wrote The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look there first if there was any significant change. However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire. When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is fully loaded. BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump, removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. "Capt. Mooron" wrote Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts??? Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow prior to questioning your instruments? "Jeff Morris" wrote | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant buffer, so | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its probably | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt. I've | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? |
Seamanship Question #5
I put on the Speed Seals, but their primary virtue, the ability to quickly
inspect the impeller, is lost on the GMF engine because its mounted backwards and almost impossible to see in. You can reach around and feel the impeller, but its pretty quick to pull the two large mounting bolts. The biggest pain in my setup is the input shutoff (what would be a seacock on a normal boat) is a hard to turn valve on the saildrive that's just out of reach. I keep plugs handy to seal the hose. In a crisis I could dislocate my shoulder and turn it off, or dive in from the top to reach it, but usually the plug works just fine. Since I have two engines, its starting to make sense to just have a spare pump ready to go in. "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message ... All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe. CM "Marc" wrote in message ... | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws | and the cover comes off, no tools. | | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. | | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | wrote: | | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P | | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of | Yanmar Pumps! | | CM | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | ... | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd | look | | there first if there was any significant change. | | | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't | change | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've | seen | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling | wire. | | | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive | the | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned | on | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is | a bit | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator | is | | fully loaded. | | | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after | dropping | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It | put it | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. | We | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have | two | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no | intake | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with | the | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water | pump, | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the | cover | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but | my | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare | was | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. | | | | | | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | | ... | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the | belts??? | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant | flow | | prior to questioning your instruments? | | | | CM | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | ... | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant | | buffer, so | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, | its | | probably | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping | belt. | | I've | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly | but I | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | | | | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly. On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" wrote: All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe. CM "Marc" wrote in message .. . | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws | and the cover comes off, no tools. | | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. | | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | wrote: | | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P | | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of | Yanmar Pumps! | | CM | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | ... | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd | look | | there first if there was any significant change. | | | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't | change | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've | seen | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling | wire. | | | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive | the | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned | on | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is | a bit | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator | is | | fully loaded. | | | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after | dropping | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It | put it | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. | We | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have | two | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no | intake | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with | the | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water | pump, | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the | cover | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but | my | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare | was | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes. | | | | | | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | | ... | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the | belts??? | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant | flow | | prior to questioning your instruments? | | | | CM | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | ... | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant | | buffer, so | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, | its | | probably | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping | belt. | | I've | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly | but I | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | | | | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Well ..... while I can concur with that schedule... I've found that pulling
the impeller when on seasonal dry dock...... I've tripled the useable life span of the impeller. I also remove the alternator and belts.Stored warm and dry for the winter. Do you wrap the engine with a cover while on the hard for storage? I was told to try it but my first concern would be condensation from the cover. What do you think? CM "Marc" wrote in message ... | Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get | proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and | the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly. | | On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | wrote: | | All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe. | | CM | | "Marc" wrote in message | .. . | | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws | | and the cover comes off, no tools. | | | | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the | | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump | | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. | | | | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | | wrote: | | | | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! | ;-P | | | | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a | | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged | intakes | | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment | of | | Yanmar Pumps! | | | | CM | | | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | ... | | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, | though a | | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly | I'd | | look | | | there first if there was any significant change. | | | | | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter | of | | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant | can't | | change | | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but | I've | | seen | | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling | | wire. | | | | | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more | sensitive | | the | | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife | turned | | on | | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp | is | | a bit | | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the | alternator | | is | | | fully loaded. | | | | | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after | | dropping | | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. | It | | put it | | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was | none. | | We | | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to | have | | two | | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning | no | | intake | | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" | with | | the | | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the | water | | pump, | | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the | | cover | | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, | but | | my | | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the | impeller | | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A | spare | | was | | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 | minutes. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | | | ... | | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the | | belts??? | | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant | | flow | | | prior to questioning your instruments? | | | | | | CM | | | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | | ... | | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a | significant | | | buffer, so | | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, | | its | | | probably | | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a | slipping | | belt. | | | I've | | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down | repeatedly | | but I | | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
"Marc" wrote in message ... 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws and the cover comes off, no tools. But there's six screws. |
Seamanship Question #5
"Marc" wrote in message ... Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, Never Seize. |
Seamanship Question #5
Bart Senior wrote:
Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] I see a really sexy woman, but I can hear her ticking. -- jlrogers±³© Never date a woman you can hear ticking. - Mark Patinkin Eschew Obfuscation. |
Seamanship Question #5
gasket placement prevents leakage through unused screw holes. Check
out http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 12:35:41 -0400, "Scott Vernon" wrote: "Marc" wrote in message .. . 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws and the cover comes off, no tools. But there's six screws. |
Seamanship Question #5
The Speed Seal doesn't use two of the holes. There are 4 knurled screws, and
two are in slots, so you remove two, loosen the other two, and the cover slides off. Instead of the paper gasket there's an O-ring that's held in a groove. Once you have access to the pump, it only takes about 10 seconds to pull the plate and see the impeller. Putting it back on is more tedious: maybe 30 seconds to make sure the thumb screws are tightened evenly. "Scott Vernon" wrote in message ... "Marc" wrote in message ... 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws and the cover comes off, no tools. But there's six screws. |
Seamanship Question #5
I'm in NYC. I don't know if our winters compare in severity. I just
loosen the belts and leave them in place. Tape over the exhaust and air intake, and spray the engine with wd 40. that , of course is after the flushing, draining, antifreezing and oil change. If the cover is an uninsulated tarp, I don't know if there would be any condensation, but I don't know what good it would do. Your engine is , after all, in a covered, tight box. Right? On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 12:55:42 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" wrote: Well ..... while I can concur with that schedule... I've found that pulling the impeller when on seasonal dry dock...... I've tripled the useable life span of the impeller. I also remove the alternator and belts.Stored warm and dry for the winter. Do you wrap the engine with a cover while on the hard for storage? I was told to try it but my first concern would be condensation from the cover. What do you think? CM "Marc" wrote in message .. . | Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get | proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and | the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly. | | On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | wrote: | | All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe. | | CM | | "Marc" wrote in message | .. . | | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws | | and the cover comes off, no tools. | | | | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the | | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump | | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket. | | | | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron" | | wrote: | | | | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! | ;-P | | | | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a | | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged | intakes | | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment | of | | Yanmar Pumps! | | | | CM | | | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | ... | | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, | though a | | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly | I'd | | look | | | there first if there was any significant change. | | | | | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter | of | | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant | can't | | change | | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but | I've | | seen | | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling | | wire. | | | | | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more | sensitive | | the | | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife | turned | | on | | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp | is | | a bit | | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the | alternator | | is | | | fully loaded. | | | | | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after | | dropping | | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. | It | | put it | | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was | none. | | We | | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to | have | | two | | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning | no | | intake | | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" | with | | the | | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the | water | | pump, | | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the | | cover | | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, | but | | my | | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the | impeller | | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A | spare | | was | | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 | minutes. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message | | | ... | | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the | | belts??? | | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant | | flow | | | prior to questioning your instruments? | | | | | | CM | | | | | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message | | | ... | | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature! | | | | | | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a | significant | | | buffer, so | | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, | | its | | | probably | | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault. | | | | | | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a | slipping | | belt. | | | I've | | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down | repeatedly | | but I | | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode? | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Seamanship Question #5
Bart Senior wrote: Your temp gauge is fluxating. Too much calor and not enough phlogistum. Cheers |
Seamanship Question #5
Yes, I've seen them before, but like you said, I don't see much advantage
for a Yanmar GMF. Scotty "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... The Speed Seal doesn't use two of the holes. There are 4 knurled screws, and two are in slots, so you remove two, loosen the other two, and the cover slides off. Instead of the paper gasket there's an O-ring that's held in a groove. Once you have access to the pump, it only takes about 10 seconds to pull the plate and see the impeller. Putting it back on is more tedious: maybe 30 seconds to make sure the thumb screws are tightened evenly. "Scott Vernon" wrote in message ... "Marc" wrote in message ... 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws and the cover comes off, no tools. But there's six screws. |
Seamanship Question #5
On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:42:18 +1200, Nav wrote
this crap: Bart Senior wrote: Your temp gauge is fluxating. Too much calor and not enough phlogistum. A little fizor in the conniculater will fix that. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
That's what he says to all the boys.
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Horvath" wrote in message ... On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:42:18 +1200, Nav wrote this crap: Bart Senior wrote: Your temp gauge is fluxating. Too much calor and not enough phlogistum. A little fizor in the conniculater will fix that. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
Seamanship Question #5
Faulty spellchecker
"Bart Senior" wrote in message t... Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] |
Seamanship Question #5
Hahahaha... yup! Either that or he's caught in a lousy
movie. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "James" wrote in message ... Faulty spellchecker "Bart Senior" wrote in message t... Your temp gauge is fluxuating. What is the most likely cause? [1 pt] |
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