I want to put in some hiking straps. This means I have to screw a couple of (I
don't know what they're called) fittings onto the deck of my boat. Here's the
question: if I want to have a bolt and a nut, how do I get behind the deck
surface to hold the nut while I turn the bolt? Should I just use self-tapping
screws and put some sealant on them? Does that make a strong attachment?

I mean, what if one of the shroud u-bolts broke? Would they have to separate
the deck from the hull to install new ones?


The Veridican

I think you are talking about installing a couple of small pad eyes.
Without knowing what your access is or where you are wanting to
install the pad eyes, it is generally a good idea to avoid creating a
potential for water to work it's way into the core. If you can,
install backing plates or something that will help distribute the
load. The general rule is to drill slightly oversize holes, then fill
with epoxy (having taped the bottom of the holes). When the epoxy
sets up into a solid core, drill a slightly smaller hole through the
epoxy plugs just large enough for the bolt. In this way, water should
not wick into the core, if you have a cored area. A backing plate
which distributes the load should help avoid stressing the the glass.
Don't use self tapping screws. That is a poor way to attach deck
hardware and will likely create bigger problems down the road.

On 15 Apr 2004 02:14:17 GMT, (Veridican) wrote:

I want to put in some hiking straps. This means I have to screw a couple of (I
don't know what they're called) fittings onto the deck of my boat. Here's the
question: if I want to have a bolt and a nut, how do I get behind the deck
surface to hold the nut while I turn the bolt? Should I just use self-tapping
screws and put some sealant on them? Does that make a strong attachment?

I mean, what if one of the shroud u-bolts broke? Would they have to separate
the deck from the hull to install new ones?


The Veridican

Veridican wrote:

I want to put in some hiking straps. This means I have to screw a couple of (I
don't know what they're called) fittings onto the deck of my boat. Here's the
question: if I want to have a bolt and a nut, how do I get behind the deck
surface to hold the nut while I turn the bolt? Should I just use self-tapping
screws and put some sealant on them? Does that make a strong attachment?

How you attach the hiking straps will depend greatly on what kind of
boat it is. I'd recommend talking to Hunter (IIRC it's a Hunter 14.6).
Or call the guys at JY - I think JY actually manufactures the boats and
I've found them to be *very* helpful about this kind of thing.

Don't just install self tapping screws - they won't hold under the
stress. You need some kind of a backing plate. That may involve
installing an inspection port, which may be more surgery than you're
interesting in doing. I'd look at finding a way to attach the straps to
existing fittings, but since I'm not all that familiar with that boat I
can't begin to tell you how. Call Hunter or JY.


I mean, what if one of the shroud u-bolts broke? Would they have to separate
the deck from the hull to install new ones?

No. The worst case scenario would probably be installing an inspection
port.

--
//-Walt
//
// There's a village in Texas that's missing it's idiot.

The Veridican,

Though the answer felton provided is not wrong, if the boat is modern
rotation molding material the epoxy may not bond to it.

It would help a person that might be able to provide a more complete
answer if you gave us a hint what the boat happens to be.

Matt Colie

Veridican wrote:

I want to put in some hiking straps. This means I have to screw a couple of (I
don't know what they're called) fittings onto the deck of my boat. Here's the
question: if I want to have a bolt and a nut, how do I get behind the deck
surface to hold the nut while I turn the bolt? Should I just use self-tapping
screws and put some sealant on them? Does that make a strong attachment?

I mean, what if one of the shroud u-bolts broke? Would they have to separate
the deck from the hull to install new ones?


The Veridican

Don't use self tapping screws. That is a poor way to attach deck
hardware and will likely create bigger problems down the road.

Agreed. And today I discovered that where I want to mount the pad eye is
accessible from both sides (on top of the deck and from underneath through the
bottom of the centerboard housing. All I need is a long extension on my socket
wrench and I can install a backing plate and nuts and bolts. And of course,
I'll seal every thing with marine epoxy.

Thanks for the advice


The Veridican

Veridican wrote:

Don't use self tapping screws. That is a poor way to attach deck
hardware and will likely create bigger problems down the road.

Agreed. And today I discovered that where I want to mount the pad eye is
accessible from both sides (on top of the deck and from underneath through the
bottom of the centerboard housing. All I need is a long extension on my socket
wrench and I can install a backing plate and nuts and bolts. And of course,
I'll seal every thing with marine epoxy.

Thanks for the advice

"Marine Epoxy" i.e. West System 105/205 or similar is not optimal for
use with the ACP construction of your Hunter. The issue is that the ACP
is basically plastic and is more flexible than a standard GRP fiberglass
construction. West System and most other epoxies cure to a fairly rigid
state and when the ACP flexes and the Epoxy doesn't you get cracks where
they separate. I've seen a number of repairs on JY 15s crack apart with
the flexing of the hull. There's a special flexible Epoxy called Plexus
that is best for use with ACP (you can probably get it through Hunter -
JY used to sell it before Hunter swallowed them)

In your case you're just looking for sealant, not strength, so epoxy is
overkill. A Marine sealant will be sufficient. 3M 5200 is probably the
best Marine sealant out there, although once you put something together
with it it's darn hard to get it back apart again. I'd recommend 3M
4200 (a less strong version of 5200) or plain old Silicone sealant.

One other tip: spend the extra 30 cents a nut and get stop nuts. That
way you won't have to go in and re-tighten the nuts every couple of
months.

Good luck with your repair.


--
//-Walt
//
//

Thanks for the info. Right now, I'm just using existing fittings and I think
they're going to work just fine. If not, I have access to install a backing
plate where I need to.

I guess I didn't mean epoxy. What I have is marine sealant. The Inspection
window is a good idea if all else fails. But that won't be the case in this
modification.

I tried to test out the hiking strap today (I'm only using one that goes down
the center of the boat) but the winds weren't strong enough, so I didn't have
enough opportunity. Tomorrow the winds are supposed to be a slight bit
stronger, so maybe I'll get a good try out.

Thanks again for the info.

Ed

Hiking straps.........we were sailing my Hobie cat off the east Fla. coast,
daughter and her boyfriend were hiked out. Old strap let go. I was looking
right at her , blinked and she was gone, the boyfriend started laughing
when, pop, his went too. They're both good swimmers. Gybed and picked them
up. still funny when I think about it.

Scotty

"EdGordonRN" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the info. Right now, I'm just using existing fittings and I
think
they're going to work just fine. If not, I have access to install a
backing
plate where I need to.

I guess I didn't mean epoxy. What I have is marine sealant. The Inspection
window is a good idea if all else fails. But that won't be the case in
this
modification.

I tried to test out the hiking strap today (I'm only using one that goes
down
the center of the boat) but the winds weren't strong enough, so I didn't
have
enough opportunity. Tomorrow the winds are supposed to be a slight bit
stronger, so maybe I'll get a good try out.

Thanks again for the info.

Ed

Don't 'seal' it with epoxy. The bolts should take the load to big
washers or backing plate and it should get sealed with a flexible
sealant. The reason is that you don't want corrosion under the fitting.

MC

Veridican wrote:

Don't use self tapping screws. That is a poor way to attach deck
hardware and will likely create bigger problems down the road.


Agreed. And today I discovered that where I want to mount the pad eye is
accessible from both sides (on top of the deck and from underneath through the
bottom of the centerboard housing. All I need is a long extension on my socket
wrench and I can install a backing plate and nuts and bolts. And of course,
I'll seal every thing with marine epoxy.

Thanks for the advice


The Veridican

Saint Thomas??