Synopsis: Boston to Vineyard Haven via Scituate and Hadley's, and return; 12 nights;
Perfect weather; little drama.

Crew: Jeff & Claudia; Amelia (8 y/o); Woody & Arlo (Feline-Americans); Molly (7 m/o
Portuguese Water Dog)

We've been going to the Vineyard for 15 years now for our annual "stress free" trip, and
this time it worked out perfectly. This was fortunate since complacency led to minimal
preparation - as I discovered when I looked for various tools and accessories that we
normally carry.

Saturday - I load up the boat with food, cloths, books, toys, etc., and top off tanks.

Sunday - With everyone on board, we head out for Scituate, about 20 miles away (12 miles
South of the southern entrance to Boston). Winds were moderate, but we weren't in a
hurry, so we were able to sail. This is a handy short trip for the first day - there is
always (knock on wood) a mooring available, and the harbor is right on the way to the
Canal. Plymouth is closer to the Canal, but the approach into Plymouth is about 3 miles,
so we only go there if the timing at the Canal requires it.

Monday - We had to wait until 2:45 PM to go through the Cape Cod Canal, which is 28 miles
south of Scituate, so we had a leisurely breakfast and headed out after 10:00. Moderate
NW wind gave us an easy broad reach which brought us to the Canal a bit early, so we
entered before the tide turned and fought a small current for the first few miles. By the
time we got through the 6 mile land cut we had several knots in our favor. Another 6
miles of a more open channel leads to Buzzard's Bay proper. If we had had the prevailing
SW wind against the 3-4 knot ebb from the Canal, this might have been a nightmare - the
normal contingency is to stop in Onset until the current turns - but today we had more of
the NW for a reach down to Hadley's Harbor just across from Wood's Hole.

Hadley's is one of the gems of Buzzard's Bay. It is enclosed by several islands of the
Elizabethan Island chain. All of the islands (except Cutyhunk) are owned by the Forbes
Family
Trust, which seems to run it as a resort for all the Forbettes. They have a tiny marina
with a fleet
of Herreshof Twelve's and other boats, a small ferry which does 3 runs a day to Wood's
Hole,
and 5 or 6 large resort styles houses on the various islands. No one is allowed ashore
(except for one small island) but they do provide about 15 moorings in the inner harbor,
of which about half are available on a first come, first serve basis. Another dozen or so
boats can anchor in the middle harbor, and dozens can fit in the outer harbor.

This pic shows the outer harbor several years ago:
http://www.sv-loki.com/Along_the_Way/Hadley.jpg

On this day we hovered like a vulture over a small boat with a family on board, asking
when they were going to leave their mooring. We stayed on the mooring that night and the
next, swimming off the boat (75 degree water temp), walking on the one permitted island,
and visiting neighbors.

Wednesday - Again we got a late start because we had to wait for slack in Wood's Hole at
10AM. This is an impressively strong current - up to 6 knots or more. To make matters
worse, when headed out to Vineyard Sound, you have to turn right while the worst of the
current goes straight; once a week a boat hesitates for a moment and ends up on the rocks.
And while there is one main path from Buzzard's Bay to Vineyard Sound, there are several
alternate channels, going to Hadley's or into the town of Wood's Hole. And of course
there are numerous ferries and other commercial traffic. And sometimes fog. But this
time we were going through at slack, and using an alternate channel to get up current in
Vineyard Sound. To my surprise, the ferry from New Bedford had the same idea, so a toot
was exchanged as he passed me on my starboard.

We powered the rest of the way to Vineyard Haven (about 4 miles). Of course, the
assistant harbor master told us there were no more moorings inside the breakwater, so we
waited until we heard the boss on the radio and tried again. In ten minutes we were
secured about 100 yards from the town dock and the inside beach.

The next 8 nights - just a regular family vacation with lots of swimming off the boat, or
into the beach. Bus rides around the island; the Agricultural Fair; the Flying Horses
Carousel (its the oldest *continuously operated* carousel in the country); avoiding
getting
a Black Dog t-shirt (OK, Amelia got one, but it was half price); and a lot of just
vacating. I did make one interesting find at the used book store in Oak Bluff: a 1942
edition of "The Boatman's Handbook" - sort of an early Chapman's. It had the complete
text of the 1897 "Pilot Rules" which state that steam driven vessels (not sail) must slow
or stop
when hearing fog signals forward of the beam. So Neal was right, just 100 years too late.
[I put this in to see if Neal was still reading.]

The weather was perfect - hot & humid, but not quite heat wave and almost no rain.
Hatches stayed open, the nights were cool, and we could swim every day. The boat held up
well - the only maintenance issues were a head that kept clogging until I replaced the
flapper valve, fortunately an easy job on a Lavac; a loose alternator belt; and a broken
wire.

We were concerned about the cats and the dog confined on such a small space, since they
haven't quite got along, but it wasn't too bad. The cats found they could hold the high
ground:
http://www.sv-loki.com/Img_1450a.jpg
And Molly gained a new respect for claws. We were hoping Molly would start swimming more,
but she seemed to prefer riding on the float. She did get very upset if anyone went
swimming without her being able to watch from the float!
http://www.sv-loki.com/Img_1427a.jpg
http://www.sv-loki.com/Img_1431a.jpg

Thursday, a week later - The tides and weather have lined up to make this the day to
split. At noon we head out, crossing Vineyard Sound just before slack (the current can
get up to 3.5 knots), and entering Woods Hole at Max Ebb. It's always a rush - we were
doing 11 knots on the GPS. The moorings were full at Hadley's, so we anchored in the
outer
harbor - is it axiomatic that when you anchor in a wide open area with plenty of space,
someone will always anchor 50 feet away?

Friday - A strong south wind is predicted, but its flat calm when we leave at 7AM. Up
Buzzard's Bay and into the Cape Cod Canal, at Max Flood, so we again are doing 11 knots on
the GPS! Into Cape Cod Bay by 10AM and still no wind, and a contrary current. Finally,
at Noon the wind filled in with a rush and quickly built to 20-25, with gusts to 30. This
was a very broad reach, not optimum for boat speed, but we held about 8.5 to 9.5 knots
through the water all afternoon. I expected a bit more, so I'm curious as to how fouled
the bottom is now, or are we dragging some gear? Even with the current against us most of
the way, we came into Boston Harbor about 3PM and were on our dock a little after 4 -
Day's work: about 72 miles in 9 hours.

All in all, one of the more satisfying trips in the last two years.

--
-jeff www.sv-loki.com
"The sea was angry that day, my friend. Like an old man trying to send back soup at the
deli."