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Bobsprit August 5th 03 02:18 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Steve, don't you want to discuss why I took so long to set up my hot water
heater???
It's really interesting!


RB

Jeff Morris August 5th 03 02:38 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Is your inverter big enough to handle the hot water heater?


"Bobsprit" wrote in message
...
Steve, don't you want to discuss why I took so long to set up my hot water
heater???
It's really interesting!


RB




Bobsprit August 5th 03 02:48 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Is your inverter big enough to handle the hot water heater?

Hot water heater is AC 120V. Water is also heated via the engine. Ran the
engine for about 10 minutes and got "warm" water. I'll probably never have a
use for it. The sun shower uses less power. We spent two hours cleaning the
freshwater tank. Just for handwashing and cleanup.
Couldn't really test the ho****er heater itself for long as lightening hit the
power transformer at the marina and knocked out power!

RB

Bobsprit August 5th 03 02:55 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
freshwater tank. Just for handwashing and cleanup.

Translation: Bubbles didn't understand the question.

Dummy, there is NO inverter for the heater. Sorry you need such careful wording
to see the obvious.

RB

Bobsprit August 5th 03 02:56 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Sounds like another lame-ass excuse. Your marina doesn't have circuit breakers
on
the mains?

Yeah. Circuit breakers for a direct lightening strike!

Doug, you're a genius. Bwahahahaha!

RB

DSK August 5th 03 03:03 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Is your inverter big enough to handle the hot water heater?


Bobsprit wrote:
Hot water heater is AC 120V. Water is also heated via the engine. Ran the
engine for about 10 minutes and got "warm" water. I'll probably never have a
use for it. The sun shower uses less power. We spent two hours cleaning the
freshwater tank. Just for handwashing and cleanup.


Translation: Bubbles didn't understand the question.


Couldn't really test the ho****er heater itself for long as lightening hit the
power transformer at the marina and knocked out power!


Sounds like another lame-ass excuse. Your marina doesn't have circuit breakers on
the mains?

Bubbles, you're nuts.

DSK



Scout August 5th 03 03:04 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Bob,
It would be real easy to use the Sun Shower as an integrated solar
collector. A couple of cheap plastic fittings, a tiny pump which could be
turned on for 30 seconds once an hour or so to move the hot water from the
solar bag to your HW tank, refilling the solar bag with cooler water from
the bottom of your HW tank. My Sun Shower hits scalding temps no time. I'd
store some of those free btu's if I had a HW tank.
Just a thought.
--
Scout
be back later - gotta take a Bertie

"Bobsprit" wrote
The sun shower uses less power.




Jeff Morris August 5th 03 03:09 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
"Bobsprit" wrote in message
...

Hot water heater is AC 120V. Water is also heated via the engine. Ran the
engine for about 10 minutes and got "warm" water. I'll probably never have a
use for it. The sun shower uses less power.


I, for one enjoy hot showers. I'll admit that we used the sun shower a lot on the
Nonsuch - it was more comfortable than the propane heater, but the AC/engine heater on the
cat works just great.

Two points: Don't leave the AC power on unless you really mean to. If it runs out of
water it can cook the heating element. I've never done it, but an absent-minded friend
started uying elements in bulk.

If you really don't intend to use the engine heating option, you might consider
disconnecting (bypassing) it. There is a risk that an air bubble can reduce water flow
and limit the cooling capacity of your engine. At the very least, if the heater lines are
above the engine, make sure there's a way to vent the air and top off the coolant.





Bobsprit August 5th 03 03:11 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
My Sun Shower hits scalding temps no time. I'd
store some of those free btu's if I had a HW tank.
Just a thought.

The head on the C&C 32 has a small opening hatch above it. Sun shower hangs
from a cleat and the hose is just the right length. Works so well I never
bothered to hook up the heater until now.

RB

Bobsprit August 5th 03 03:13 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
If you really don't intend to use the engine heating option, you might consider
disconnecting (bypassing) it. There is a risk that an air bubble can reduce
water flow
and limit the cooling capacity of your engine. At the very least, if the
heater lines are
above the engine, make sure there's a way to vent the air and top off the
coolant.

Another excellent tip. Thanks. I'll check into this as I may just drop using
the heater.

RB

Doug King August 5th 03 03:22 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Bobsprit wrote:


Dummy, there is NO inverter for the heater.


You mean you don't have an inverter, or that your "entertainment system" is all the
load it can handle? Aren't you embarrassed to have such a pathetic power system on
your boat? Or maybe not, after all it was only half price.

How exactly does this make me a dummy?

And you are still banging your "stepping stone" boat into the dock, and saying "I
meant to do that" like PeeWee Herman, instead of learning how to drive properly.
Maybe, since it was only half price, you aren't losing any value by smacking up
your topsides.....

Bubbles, you're nuts. And you're a moron too.

DSK



CANDChelp August 5th 03 03:23 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
How exactly does this make me a dummy?

After I explained that the engine was the method of water heating away from the
slip, a person with tripple digit IQ would have realized that I don't carry a
big inverter.
Not you, of course!

Bwahaahaha! Powerboater!

RB

CANDChelp August 5th 03 03:24 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
And you are still banging your "stepping stone" boat into the dock, and saying


Not only is the wax nearly perfect on my boat, but the fenders are pretty darn
scuff free as well!

RB

DSK August 5th 03 03:32 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 


Jeff Morris wrote:


I, for one enjoy hot showers.


There's one thing (out of many) that is a big difference between you, and I, and I'd suspect
most of the rest of us, and the Bubbles/Crapton axis.... they don't like baths or showers...



Two points: Don't leave the AC power on unless you really mean to. If it runs out of
water it can cook the heating element. I've never done it, but an absent-minded friend
started uying elements in bulk.


If you have an accumulator on your water system, that shouldn't be a problem. It doens't need
to be that big either.



If you really don't intend to use the engine heating option, you might consider
disconnecting (bypassing) it. There is a risk that an air bubble can reduce water flow
and limit the cooling capacity of your engine. At the very least, if the heater lines are
above the engine, make sure there's a way to vent the air and top off the coolant.


Yep. Although a proper installation would already address this issue. It's amazing how many
boats have improperly installed systems.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King



Scott Vernon August 5th 03 03:32 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Ahhhh, my Solar Shower, worked rather well on the Mac. Forgot I had one.
Will throw it into the boat next time down.

Scotty

"Scout" wrote in message
...
Bob,
It would be real easy to use the Sun Shower as an integrated solar
collector. A couple of cheap plastic fittings, a tiny pump which could be
turned on for 30 seconds once an hour or so to move the hot water from the
solar bag to your HW tank, refilling the solar bag with cooler water from
the bottom of your HW tank. My Sun Shower hits scalding temps no time.

I'd
store some of those free btu's if I had a HW tank.
Just a thought.
--
Scout
be back later - gotta take a Bertie

"Bobsprit" wrote
The sun shower uses less power.






Jeff Morris August 5th 03 03:47 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
"DSK" wrote:
Jeff Morris wrote:
I, for one enjoy hot showers.


There's one thing (out of many) that is a big difference between you, and I, and I'd

suspect
most of the rest of us, and the Bubbles/Crapton axis.... they don't like baths or

showers...

So which side of this issue do you weigh in on?

BTW, a long time liveaboard friend of mine has been known to say "showers are very
over-rated."

Two points: Don't leave the AC power on unless you really mean to. If it runs out of
water it can cook the heating element. I've never done it, but an absent-minded

friend
started uying elements in bulk.


If you have an accumulator on your water system, that shouldn't be a problem. It doens't

need
to be that big either.


I don't think my friend's boat had an accumulator. However, if you leave the water
pressure on while the boat is unattended, the water can drain out, accumulator or no. The
marine plumbing fixtures are incredibly cheap and unreliable.

An important lesson for newbies is to ALWAYS shutdown unused systems and leave the boat as
though you won't return for a few weeks - even if you plan on coming back the next day.
If you have an absolute routine, then you don't sit at home wondering what state you left
the boat it. (Or which state, for some people)




If you really don't intend to use the engine heating option, you might consider
disconnecting (bypassing) it. There is a risk that an air bubble can reduce water

flow
and limit the cooling capacity of your engine. At the very least, if the heater lines

are
above the engine, make sure there's a way to vent the air and top off the coolant.


Yep. Although a proper installation would already address this issue. It's amazing how

many
boats have improperly installed systems.


Yes indeed - this is one of those "forgotten" issues.



DSK August 5th 03 06:20 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Jeff Morris wrote:

So which side of this issue do you weigh in on?


Guess... the tugboat which we chose oh so deliberately has a real-live sho-'nuff bath tub...
also serves as a very nice shower!

BTW our tugboat also has a 170 gallon water tank. My wife, used to much smaller capacity,
keeps fretting about using up water. Hah!




BTW, a long time liveaboard friend of mine has been known to say "showers are very
over-rated."


And I bet his social suffers a little, at least on hot days.



I don't think my friend's boat had an accumulator. However, if you leave the water
pressure on while the boat is unattended, the water can drain out, accumulator or no. The
marine plumbing fixtures are incredibly cheap and unreliable.


You mean if the water pressure is left off, or on? Leaking back through the check valves at
the pump? Probably right, but at least the accumulator will help. Makes the system quieter &
more efficient as well.



An important lesson for newbies is to ALWAYS shutdown unused systems and leave the boat as
though you won't return for a few weeks - even if you plan on coming back the next day.
If you have an absolute routine, then you don't sit at home wondering what state you left
the boat it. (Or which state, for some people)


Definitely agree. I was surprised at how many people habitually leave all their sea cocks
open... shucks, there's a few who don't even know where all their sea cocks *are*. An
equivalently shoddy motorboat habit is to leave the suction/return valves to both (or all, if
more than two) fuel tanks open.

Another big hazard many people are unaware of: hooking up your water system to pressure water
at the dock can sink your boat. It's happened to two boats in our area just this year. Sure
it's convenient, but a plumbing fitting blowout, or even a small persistent leak that runs th
bilge pump & drains the battery, can lead to a very expensive & inconvenient salvage job.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King





DSK August 5th 03 06:29 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
How exactly does this make me a dummy?


CANDChelp wrote:
After I explained that the engine was the method of water heating away from the
slip, a person with tripple digit IQ would have realized that I don't carry a
big inverter.
Not you, of course!


Do you remember what you wrote Bubbles? You didn't explain anything of the kind.
But why would you remember, or accurately repeat, what you posted?

You're the moron who went sailing with two other people and then loudly insisted
you had no crew; likewise that there were several other boats out sailing but that
the weather was too scary for everybody else.

One might assume you're embarrassed that you don't have an inverter. Of course, on
a half-price boat, you can't expect everything.

Bubbles, you're nuts.



Bwahaahaha! Powerboater!


Yep. And not only that, a powerboater who knows (and shows) far more than you do
about sailing. And everything else, so far.

Bye bye for a while Bubbles®, I'm done reading your posts for another week or two.

DSK



Gilligan August 5th 03 07:04 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 

"CANDChelp" wrote in message

Embarassed? It's a 32 foot sailboat? Why do I need a big inverter? Please
explain why this is needed?


MTBF



Thom Stewart August 5th 03 07:04 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Hey Nutsy,

If you are trying to get hot water from the engine, you'll have put the
engine in gear. If you are moored you can do it with about 1800 RPM's.
Chk engine at normal temp when running under power. That is what the
heat/exchange needs.

The engine is a lot faster than the AC Electric if you want a shower. If
I want a shower when I get in I Drop the sails out side the Harbor
marker and motor in. It cuts the heating time dowm at the slip. Also
allows replacement of fresh water in tank.

Ole Thom


Gilligan August 5th 03 07:07 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Note the word: "stress"

http://www.powerstream.com/SwPSFAQ.htm

Mean time before failure. This is a statistical calculation, not a
measurement. All the parts in a device have mean time between failure
ratings. These are mathematically combined to get an MTBF number, often
dependent on the stress put on them. Even the via holes in a circuit board
have MTBF ratings. As you might think, as a rule of thumb, the more parts
the less the MTBF. However, sometimes you can replace one part with a few
more reliable parts, or spread the stress of one part over several parts and
increase the MTBF. The human body has a trillion cells and each cell has an
MTBF of 6 years. No wonder I don't feel so good. By the way, PowerStream
engineers are well equipped to calculate MTBF using MIL-HDBK-217E.







Jeff Morris August 5th 03 07:22 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Wow - I sure got a lot of mileage from that inverter comment!
--
-jeff www.sv-loki.com
If you can't say something nice, say something surrealistic. -Zippy




"Gilligan" wrote in message
ink.net...

"CANDChelp" wrote in message

Embarassed? It's a 32 foot sailboat? Why do I need a big inverter? Please
explain why this is needed?


MTBF





Pony Express August 5th 03 10:58 PM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Why are you trying to heat hot water?
--
----
Steve
S/V Pony Express

"Bobsprit" wrote in message
...
Steve, don't you want to discuss why I took so long to set up my hot water
heater???
It's really interesting!


RB



Bobsprit August 6th 03 12:18 AM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Do you remember what you wrote Bubbles? You didn't explain anything of the
kind.
But why would you remember, or accurately repeat, what you posted?

Here it is doug, word for word, in answer to the query about the size of
inverter..

Is your inverter big enough to handle the hot water heater?

Hot water heater is AC 120V. Water is also heated via the engine. Ran the
engine for about 10 minutes and got "warm" water.

Having only indicated 120V and engine as heat source, only a poor idiot like
you would still be wondering about an imagined inverter!
Bwahahahaaha! Face it, you barely read the post and now you have Bertie all
over your face!!!

bahahaha!

RB

Bobsprit August 6th 03 12:19 AM

Steve and Plumbing
 
Wow - I sure got a lot of mileage from that inverter comment!

Me too!!! Thanks! I busted doug up worse than a VW Beetle at a Bus rally!

RB

Bobsprit August 6th 03 12:20 AM

Steve and Plumbing
 
The engine is a lot faster than the AC Electric if you want a shower. If
I want a shower when I get in I Drop the sails out side the Harbor
marker and motor in. It cuts the heating time dowm at the slip. Also
allows replacement of fresh water in tank.

Thanks for the info.

RB

Steve Thomas August 6th 03 01:29 AM

Steve and Plumbing
 
It is getting difficult to find low power microwaves suitable for smaller
inverters.
The cheapest ones are the ones with lower power requirements, and the
cheapest ones available keep creeping up in power.
The manufacturers think that people only accept lower power units because of
a purchase cost advantage.

Steve T.

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Nutsy,

I have a 500 Watt Micro Wave Oven, which I wouldn't exchange for your
whole sound system. Hamburgers, hot dogs, cooked Crab, Fresh fish fillet
sandwiches. hot coffee or chocolate, soups,etc all in less than 5min.
Baked potatoes in 9. Nachos & Cheese in 30 secs.

Inverter takes less room than that Force Ten BBQ you carry

That's my lesson. Not really necessary but better than all that NOISE
EQUIP in a quite cove.

AND: "I'LL DRINK TO THAT!" (A hot Tardy in two minutes and on the go)

Ole Thom





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