hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended
cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this
vessel
thank you
brian s. mantis

My last boat was a Cheoy Lee Cipper 33 and I have followed the Cheoy Lee
boats since the '60 when I use to go to their boat yard in Hong Kong and
dream of owning one.. (I was in the US Navy at the time)

I had my Cheoy Lee for 8 years and was the 2nd owner.. About the only
general comment that I would make would be regarding their low grade of
stainless steel for chain plates and a few of the other SS fittings.

Can you tell about the age of the Cheoy Lee your considering and I might be
able to comment further.. Also does it have teak decks or teak overlay on
the cabin truck, etc.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

My last boat was a Cheoy Lee Cipper 33 and I have followed the Cheoy Lee
boats since the '60 when I use to go to their boat yard in Hong Kong and
dream of owning one.. (I was in the US Navy at the time)

I had my Cheoy Lee for 8 years and was the 2nd owner.. About the only
general comment that I would make would be regarding their low grade of
stainless steel for chain plates and a few of the other SS fittings.

Can you tell about the age of the Cheoy Lee your considering and I might be
able to comment further.. Also does it have teak decks or teak overlay on
the cabin truck, etc.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Be careful of the teak decks.

Bill

"Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message
...
hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended
cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this
vessel
thank you
brian s. mantis

Be careful of the teak decks.

Bill

"Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message
...
hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended
cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this
vessel
thank you
brian s. mantis

Why is that?

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Be careful of the teak decks.

Bill

"Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message
...
hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended
cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this
vessel
thank you
brian s. mantis

Why is that?

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Be careful of the teak decks.

Bill

"Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message
...
hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended
cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this
vessel
thank you
brian s. mantis

"Tom Foppiano" wrote in message
...
Why is that?

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Be careful of the teak decks.


I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee teak decks.

The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2" and bedded and
screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were machine screws
tapped into the glass and into the ply core.

Everything was fine for the first 12 years but once the deck had warn down
about 1/8" the screw hole plugs started popping out, exposing the screw
head. Now the screw hole is not deep enough to put a new plug in it, the
srew can't be removed without breaking off. So you I ended up with about 50
open screw heads where water would accumulate. Also at the sametime the seam
filler started pulling away for the the edge of the seam. Every year I had
to reef about 10 ft of seam, prime and refill with polysulfide seam filler.

As might be expected with these failures, eventually some water might get
under the teak.. I don't know what type of adhesive/sealant was used to bed
the teak to the glass, but eventually it will desolve due to age or when
perpetually wet.. Over time this bedding compound becomes syrupy and ozzes
out where ever it can.

Over a three year period, I was finally able to catch up with the problem of
filling screw holes with epoxy (couldnt keep plugs it them) and refilling
the bad seems. I then sold the boat and warned the new owner to keep up with
the seam repairs.. He didn't and when he finally sold the boat 4 years
later, the old problem was evident..

IMHO I believe that if a boat is going to have a teak overlay deck, it shoud
be at least 5/8" thick so the screws can be counter sunk deeper and the
seams are deep enough to hold the seam filler as the deck gets thinner from
traffic or maintenance scrubbing and sanding.

I also had problems with the teak overlay on the cabin truck.. It was only
3/8" thick when finished.. Over time the moisture would start wicking in
around the edges and soon the bond would deteriorated.. All though there
never was a complete failure, I had several noticable cracks when it dried
out during summer..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Tom Foppiano" wrote in message
...
Why is that?

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Be careful of the teak decks.


I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee teak decks.

The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2" and bedded and
screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were machine screws
tapped into the glass and into the ply core.

Everything was fine for the first 12 years but once the deck had warn down
about 1/8" the screw hole plugs started popping out, exposing the screw
head. Now the screw hole is not deep enough to put a new plug in it, the
srew can't be removed without breaking off. So you I ended up with about 50
open screw heads where water would accumulate. Also at the sametime the seam
filler started pulling away for the the edge of the seam. Every year I had
to reef about 10 ft of seam, prime and refill with polysulfide seam filler.

As might be expected with these failures, eventually some water might get
under the teak.. I don't know what type of adhesive/sealant was used to bed
the teak to the glass, but eventually it will desolve due to age or when
perpetually wet.. Over time this bedding compound becomes syrupy and ozzes
out where ever it can.

Over a three year period, I was finally able to catch up with the problem of
filling screw holes with epoxy (couldnt keep plugs it them) and refilling
the bad seems. I then sold the boat and warned the new owner to keep up with
the seam repairs.. He didn't and when he finally sold the boat 4 years
later, the old problem was evident..

IMHO I believe that if a boat is going to have a teak overlay deck, it shoud
be at least 5/8" thick so the screws can be counter sunk deeper and the
seams are deep enough to hold the seam filler as the deck gets thinner from
traffic or maintenance scrubbing and sanding.

I also had problems with the teak overlay on the cabin truck.. It was only
3/8" thick when finished.. Over time the moisture would start wicking in
around the edges and soon the bond would deteriorated.. All though there
never was a complete failure, I had several noticable cracks when it dried
out during summer..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Steve" wrote in message
...

I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee
teak decks.

The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2"
and bedded and
screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were
machine screws
tapped into the glass and into the ply core.

Steve, we have a friend here that had the teak overlay problem
and fixed it by removing it, sealing the deck and then used
Treadmaster to replace it. I have the same on my Fisher and love
it, but it is hard on bare feet.

Leanne