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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived!


wrote in message
...
The impeller in a car waterpump is METAL, for openers. Outboard
waterpumps have to work in a very different environment, and so they
are made of flexible materials. They are in contact with the insides
of the pump housing to maintain a needed seal, and the material also
can crack due to plain old aging and loss of flexibility. An outboard
impeller can deteriorate from just age, without having any hours on
it. That's why 2 years is a good time for routinely changing them even
if they have very low hours on them. Likewise, an event where a lot of
sand or mud gets sucked into it, or it is allowed to run while dry
will cause an early death. Running dry ruins them almost instantly.

They aren't ****. They are designed for a different set of rules than
a car water pump. Boats are not automobiles, nor are they airplanes.

An impeller of the type commonly used on outboards and small marine engines
can have too much flexibility. The vanes need to be quite stiff as, after
they have been pushed inwards by the cam, it is their inherent stiffness
that allows them to spring back quickly and thereby suck in more water.
I found this out when an impeller that seemed nice and flexible would pump
just fine at slow revs but would cease to pump at higher revs because the
vanes were too flexible to recover in the time available. I changed it for a
stiffer one and problem disappeared. I have never known one to crack and
think they would have to be out of use for a long time before this happened.
Do not forget that there is always one vane bent inward when the engine is
not in use so it pays to turn the engine over occasionally to move the
impeller around a bit.
Running dry is certainly sudden death to them and so I like to smear the
impeller with soluble oil (hand cleaner) when first starting unprimed in the
spring.


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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived!

On Thu, 22 May 2008 12:06:29 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 22 May 2008 15:42:48 GMT,
(Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Wed, 21 May 2008 22:16:49 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 22 May 2008 01:11:53 GMT,
(Richard Casady)
wrote:

On Sat, 17 May 2008 07:21:53 -0400,
wrote:

You should plan on replacing the impeller every other season regardless of
anything else, including whether the motor was even used or not. It's not a hard
job, but it's an important bit of maintenance.

10 000 miles in a car, at 50 MPH is the same two hundred hours that is
a lot for most small boats. The family ride reached 170 000 miles with
a set of spark plugs that it didn't need, at 100 000 miles. Then it
developed low compression on one cylinder, and I figured the writing
was on the wall and had them put in a rebuilt motor with a warrenty.

Used up a motor with lots of miles, but the water pump never caused
trouble.

Casady

Are you on drugs? Seriously!


I seriously believe that water pumps shouldn't wear out in only a few
hundred hours. How many hours is 170 000 miles? Yacht engines get used
little on the average. 200 hours per year is one figure I read. The
family auto and everything on it have been trouble free for about
5000 hours Gas oil and tires and that was it. Why are boat pumps ****?


Casady



The impeller in a car waterpump is METAL, for openers. Outboard
waterpumps have to work in a very different environment, and so they
are made of flexible materials. They are in contact with the insides
of the pump housing to maintain a needed seal, and the material also
can crack due to plain old aging and loss of flexibility. An outboard
impeller can deteriorate from just age, without having any hours on
it. That's why 2 years is a good time for routinely changing them even
if they have very low hours on them. Likewise, an event where a lot of
sand or mud gets sucked into it, or it is allowed to run while dry
will cause an early death. Running dry ruins them almost instantly.

They aren't ****.

Good.
They are designed for a different set of rules than
a car water pump. Boats are not automobiles, nor are they airplanes.


That plastic impeller can perhaps have plasticisers leach out over
time, making the thing brittle. I thought all the parts of the car
were connected to the odometer so they can hang on to existance until
the warrantee is up.

Casady
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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived!


"Edgar" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
The impeller in a car waterpump is METAL, for openers. Outboard
waterpumps have to work in a very different environment, and so they
are made of flexible materials. They are in contact with the insides
of the pump housing to maintain a needed seal, and the material also
can crack due to plain old aging and loss of flexibility. An outboard
impeller can deteriorate from just age, without having any hours on
it. That's why 2 years is a good time for routinely changing them even
if they have very low hours on them. Likewise, an event where a lot of
sand or mud gets sucked into it, or it is allowed to run while dry
will cause an early death. Running dry ruins them almost instantly.

They aren't ****. They are designed for a different set of rules than
a car water pump. Boats are not automobiles, nor are they airplanes.

An impeller of the type commonly used on outboards and small marine
engines can have too much flexibility. The vanes need to be quite stiff
as, after they have been pushed inwards by the cam, it is their inherent
stiffness that allows them to spring back quickly and thereby suck in more
water.
I found this out when an impeller that seemed nice and flexible would pump
just fine at slow revs but would cease to pump at higher revs because the
vanes were too flexible to recover in the time available. I changed it for
a stiffer one and problem disappeared. I have never known one to crack
and think they would have to be out of use for a long time before this
happened. Do not forget that there is always one vane bent inward when the
engine is not in use so it pays to turn the engine over occasionally to
move the impeller around a bit.
Running dry is certainly sudden death to them and so I like to smear the
impeller with soluble oil (hand cleaner) when first starting unprimed in
the spring.


Depends of the brand and model of the motor. I have a 2 HP Seagull that has
a rigid impeller that works by centrifugal force. It can be run dry without
damaging it because it doesn't rub on the housing like the rubber impellers
do. There is no bending, no binding and no reason to turn the engine once in
a while to keep one vane from bending and cracking. The Seagull is clearly
superior to any new Suzuki. It will live in the marine environment for 20-30
years no problem. The Suzuki might last ten years with meticulous care.

--
Gregory Hall


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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived! (Update? From The SuzukiMechanics and Bigwigs)

I've talked to several Suzuki mechanics and to Customer Service at USA
Suzuki Marine and here are "answers" (i.e. "information") I received.

1--The amount of water squirting out of the pilot (pee) hole is
determined by the rpms of the motor; the faster the motor revs, the
bigger the stream.

2--The idle setting on the motor is 1800 rpm (which seemed quite peppy
to me) but is needed to be that fast to keep the impeller pumping
water.

3--At some speeds, there will not be a "stream" of water but only a
"mist" that one can feel by putting one's hand in front of the pilot
"pee" hole.

4--The manual still sucks.

5--There was a recsall issued by Suzuki for certain motors within a
serial number range for a defecvtive cooling system. My motor was not
in that group.

And now for what REALLY ****ED ME OFF! I've owned Suzuki motorcycles
and ATVs and have always like products made in Japan; however, in
looking at the motor plate today I saw the words MADE IN THAILAND.
GRRRRRRRRR...even the outsourcees are not outsourcing.

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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived! (Update On Info From Mechanicsand Suzuki Customer Service)

I've talked to several Suzuki mechanics and to Customer Service at
USA
Suzuki Marine and here are "answers" (i.e. "information") I received.

1--The amount of water squirting out of the pilot (pee) hole is
determined by the rpms of the motor; the faster the motor revs, the
bigger the stream.

2--The idle setting on the motor is 1800 rpm (which seemed quite
peppy
to me) but is needed to be that fast to keep the impeller pumping
water at idle/low speed.


3--At some speeds, there will not be a "stream" of water but only a
"mist" that one can feel by putting one's hand in front of the pilot
"pee" hole.


4--The manual still sucks.


5--There was a recall issued by Suzuki for certain motors within a
serial number range for a defective cooling system. My motor was not
in that group.


And now for what REALLY ****ED ME OFF! I've owned Suzuki motorcycles
and ATVs and have always liked the quality and style of products made
in Japan; however, in looking at the motor plate today I saw the words
MADE IN THAILAND stamped therein. GRRRRRRRRR...even our outsourcees
are now outsourcing. Where will it all end?

-Jay
(Who may be reliving dreams about that 5HP air-cooled Briggs &
Stratton outboard he passed up for $699 although it was probably made
in Bangladesh, Nigeria or high in the mountains of Nepal..lol)

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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived!


"Gregory Hall" wrote in message
...

Depends of the brand and model of the motor. I have a 2 HP Seagull that
has a rigid impeller that works by centrifugal force. It can be run dry
without damaging it because it doesn't rub on the housing like the rubber
impellers do. There is no bending, no binding and no reason to turn the
engine once in a while to keep one vane from bending and cracking. The
Seagull is clearly superior to any new Suzuki. It will live in the marine
environment for 20-30 years no problem. The Suzuki might last ten years
with meticulous care.

--
Gregory Hall


You are right about Seagulls. Apart from my little Yamaha I have a Seagull
Century Plus that I got new in 1954 and I will never part with it.
It is really useful to be able to run it up dry on the bench so that you are
sure all is in order before you take it to the boat and it has a large
propeller that will push my 15' 6" wooden dinghy up to hull speed.
It is heavy, noisy and oily but I know it will not stop running for anything
as long as you feed it clean fuel. If it should stop you can fix any likely
problem in the boat with just three simple tools.
"They don't make them like that any more!"


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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived! (Update On Info From Mechanics and Suzuki Customer Service)

Well... my original question is addressed in #3, At least we know
there IS and indicator at all times of impeller operation. That's
good.
But now I have a new question brought on by #2. I don't think I've
ever tried to put any motor in gear at 1800 rpm. Are the backs of
your boat seats equipped with head rests? Seems like whiplash may be a
problem ;-)
Seriously though, stay in touch. I'm interested to know how it all
works out over time.

Rick ---- still think you did better than the Briggs & Stratton

On Fri, 23 May 08, Jay wrote:
I've talked to several Suzuki mechanics and to Customer Service at
USA
Suzuki Marine and here are "answers" (i.e. "information") I received.

1--The amount of water squirting out of the pilot (pee) hole is
determined by the rpms of the motor; the faster the motor revs, the
bigger the stream.

2--The idle setting on the motor is 1800 rpm (which seemed quite
peppy
to me) but is needed to be that fast to keep the impeller pumping
water at idle/low speed.


3--At some speeds, there will not be a "stream" of water but only a
"mist" that one can feel by putting one's hand in front of the pilot
"pee" hole.


4--The manual still sucks.


5--There was a recall issued by Suzuki for certain motors within a
serial number range for a defective cooling system. My motor was not
in that group.


And now for what REALLY ****ED ME OFF! I've owned Suzuki motorcycles
and ATVs and have always liked the quality and style of products made
in Japan; however, in looking at the motor plate today I saw the words
MADE IN THAILAND stamped therein. GRRRRRRRRR...even our outsourcees
are now outsourcing. Where will it all end?

-Jay
(Who may be reliving dreams about that 5HP air-cooled Briggs &
Stratton outboard he passed up for $699 although it was probably made
in Bangladesh, Nigeria or high in the mountains of Nepal..lol)

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Default The Suzuki DF2.5 HP Has Arrived! (And the cooling system isworking!)

On May 17, 10:45*pm, Jay wrote:
On May 17, 9:04*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
Not knowing anything about OB cooling systems, a couple questions.
1. If the OB has a thermostat, can it be fully closed?
2. With the OB's you are familiar with, can the engine overheat even
when the pee hole has a stream?
I'm thinking Jay's new OB is designed to discharge all cooling water
through the thermostat, and if it's shut, no stream.
Though I know OB owners basically worship that peehole stream as the
Holy Grail of engine heat control, it may not so important with this
small engine. *



Vic, I think you may have the answer to the way the Suzuki 2.5
works and
the other confusion is just the result of a crappily-written manual.
From what I've gathered about this little OB, the water does not begin
to squirt out the "holes" until the motor reached a certain operating
temperature and the thermostat opens and releases the water to be
squirted out of the holes.
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