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posted to rec.boats.building
Jim and Becky
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4" skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?


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posted to rec.boats.building
anon
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 21:28:57 -0500, "Jim and Becky"
wrote:

I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4" skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?


Aluminum is a soft metal and can be cut with about anything. In fact
you could use a hand saw with a fine tooth blade.

Using power tools You will encounter two problem areas.

First, heat buildup caused by friction. A skill saw intended for
cutting wood may have a higher blade speed then ideal for cutting
aluminum.

There second problem you may encounter is that if the aluminum is one
of the softer variates it will tend to clog the saw blade.

I would suggest, if possible, you use a sabre saw with variable
speed.. High speed steel blades will be quite adequate. You don't need
carbide tips although if you do use the skill saw the carbide tips
will withstand the heat better.

The ideal lubricant to use is "Tap Magic" which is a product developed
for tapping screw holes and it really does work like magic. Just be
sure to specify that it is for aluminum.

If you don't want to go to the bother of locating tap magic a
"secret" I was taught during my apprentice days was to use kerosene or
diesel fuel as a cutting fluid for aluminum. Use a "squirt can" and
give it a squirt from time to time.


Anon
)
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  #3   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
dazed and confuzzed
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

Jim and Becky wrote:
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4" skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?


I cut aluminum with a table saw all the time. I don't even use a blade
meant for aluminum.

Paraffin will work, just a little is enough. More important is feed
speed. Too much and you will heat the blade, warping it.



--

“Striving for mediocrity”
__________________________________________________ __________________________
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
The simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3


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posted to rec.boats.building
Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

On my table say I use a triple chip non-ferrous blade and can easily cut up
to half inch. I use WD40 as the lubricant nut paraffin will work.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Jim and Becky" wrote in message
...
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port
wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"
skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How
much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?




  #5   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
Bob
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum


Jim and Becky wrote:
I own a 32' fishing boat.


Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?


I'v been watching a friend of mine building the same thing for the last
year. I was amazed.... he just used common wood working tools. No
lubracant at all.
Bob.



  #6   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
hakl
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

Full agreement to Anons answer and would add following

I use sable saw, skill saw (one stationary) and a saber saw.
All has carbide tips or are hardened blades, it pays back.
For the skill saws, the tips should be sharpened for Aluminum, is a little
difference compared for wood.
If they are clocked, remove the alu very carefully but gentle, not to hurt
the tips and their connection.
Even use a thin file to loosen the alu-bit and a sharp-edged nipper.
(I have already destroyed 2 Blades)

Use protection glasses and gloves, alu-chips are hot and sharp

I use wax, it works ok, aswell as lubricating oil (it's for lubricating
lathes).
Both works much better than no lubrication.
The only disadvantage is for welding, therefore I have to clean thoroughly.

klaus

--------------------------------------------
if interested, but only german www.aluriverboat.de



I use skill saw, sable saw and carbide tips
"anon" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 21:28:57 -0500, "Jim and Becky"
wrote:

I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port

wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"

skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How

much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?


Aluminum is a soft metal and can be cut with about anything. In fact
you could use a hand saw with a fine tooth blade.

Using power tools You will encounter two problem areas.

First, heat buildup caused by friction. A skill saw intended for
cutting wood may have a higher blade speed then ideal for cutting
aluminum.

There second problem you may encounter is that if the aluminum is one
of the softer variates it will tend to clog the saw blade.

I would suggest, if possible, you use a sabre saw with variable
speed.. High speed steel blades will be quite adequate. You don't need
carbide tips although if you do use the skill saw the carbide tips
will withstand the heat better.

The ideal lubricant to use is "Tap Magic" which is a product developed
for tapping screw holes and it really does work like magic. Just be
sure to specify that it is for aluminum.

If you don't want to go to the bother of locating tap magic a
"secret" I was taught during my apprentice days was to use kerosene or
diesel fuel as a cutting fluid for aluminum. Use a "squirt can" and
give it a squirt from time to time.


Anon
)
_________________________________________
Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server
More than 140,000 groups
Unlimited download
http://www.usenetzone.com to open account



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posted to rec.boats.building
Brian D
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

As everyone has mentioned, standard wood working saws work. The primary
thing to worry about with aluminum (other than the mess) is drilling
....marine aluminum can work harden pretty quickly if you get it wrong, then
it becomes very difficult to drill. Use the lube, use a moderate speed, and
don't push it through the aluminum too slowly ...get the bit to bite. As
long as the aluminum is cutting, you're fine. If it stalls ...don't let the
bit sit and spin, but stop, lube, make sure the bit is sharp and try again
but make sure you do what you need to to get the bit to cut metal, not just
spin around on it.

Brian D


"Jim and Becky" wrote in message
...
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port
wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"
skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How
much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?




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posted to rec.boats.building
rhys
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 09:57:31 +0700, anon wrote:



If you don't want to go to the bother of locating tap magic a
"secret" I was taught during my apprentice days was to use kerosene or
diesel fuel as a cutting fluid for aluminum. Use a "squirt can" and
give it a squirt from time to time.

A similar method is to squirt a little lamp oil of the type found on
boats. Essentially, it's kerosene anyway, with colour added.

Wear gloves and clamp the piece being cut or drilled. The gloves are
not only for the blade, of course, but because the piece gets friggin'
hot. I cut several 1/4" aluminum backing plates a few years ago and
used standard woodshop power tools. No problem...but have a vacuum
cleaner ready for the pounds of shavings!

R.
  #9   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
rhys
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 08:24:49 -0800, "Brian D"
wrote:

As everyone has mentioned, standard wood working saws work. The primary
thing to worry about with aluminum (other than the mess) is drilling
...marine aluminum can work harden pretty quickly if you get it wrong, then
it becomes very difficult to drill. Use the lube, use a moderate speed, and
don't push it through the aluminum too slowly ...get the bit to bite. As
long as the aluminum is cutting, you're fine. If it stalls ...don't let the
bit sit and spin, but stop, lube, make sure the bit is sharp and try again
but make sure you do what you need to to get the bit to cut metal, not just
spin around on it.


Agreement here. A final tip is to use a nail punch to center the drill
hole properly for pieces to be bolted together. The piece WILL want to
move, hence the previous advice about clamping.

R.
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posted to rec.boats.building
derbyrm
 
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Default Lubrication for cutting aluminum

Many years ago, GE had their research lab study the question of lubricating
aluminum. Their conclusion? Iodine might help a little, but nothing really
worked well. Tap Magic, kerosene, lard, etc. will cool the blade, but they
won't provide true lubrication like you'd use between the crankshaft and the
connecting rod bearings of an engine.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Jim and Becky" wrote in message
...
I own a 32' fishing boat.
The superstructure is 3/16th aluminum. I want to saw out the port
wheelhouse
wall as I convert the boat into a family cruiser.

I intend to use a carbide tipped blade made for aluminum on a 7 1/4"
skill
saw.

I'm wondering about lubrication. I've read parrafin wax would work. How
much
do they mean? The amount you'd rub on a snow ski or an 1/4" mound of the
stuff?

Does anyone think the skill saw idea is bad?




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