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seawitch
 
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Default band saw and a planer

can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to her some of your input...

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Default band saw and a planer


"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to her some of your input...


What size stock will you be using?

I just filled my shop with goodies from Grizzly and am very happy with the
quality/price:
http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx



  #3   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
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Default band saw and a planer

I do not know exactly where you live or what you intent to do with a band
saw and planer.
In the US http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx is a good choice for average
quality motorized tools. In Canada www.busybeetools.com they have about the
same tools as Grizzly.
By planer I take that you mean thickness planer. Here you should experiment
with different type and sizes. If you intent to plane a few board of pine
and the occasional oak plank every year a portable Delta, Makita,Dewalt or
equivalent copy costing between $300.00 - $600.00 will do the job.
The thing to watch for is blades replacement and adjustment. I prefer the
drop in type they do not need adjustment. The later are powered by 120
volts and can be moved around easily. With these planers it is wise to only
remove a small amount every pass like less than 1/64. If you have a rough
4/4 thick board to reduce it to 3/4 thick will take many pass. If you think
that you work load may be a few thousand board foot of hard wood every year
a more powerful planer running on 220 volts would be the tool of choice.
In either case you will need a chips collector.
As for the band saw for average work a 1 HP, 110 Volts, 14" X 14" table,
14" throat and a cutting height of 6" will do.
If you intent to some ripping and make you own board from logs or larger
pieces of timber and make large bowl blanks from green wood you will need a
larger 220 volts band saw.
The best thing is to identify the space, electrical power outlet (110 and
220 volts ) and what you want to do before buying a band saw or a surface
planer.


wrote in message news:F2xaf.1413$9u4.87@trnddc01...

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me witch planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
with out overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to her some of your input...


What size stock will you be using?

I just filled my shop with goodies from Grizzly and am very happy with the
quality/price:
http://www.grizzly.com/index.aspx





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Roger Derby
 
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Default band saw and a planer

When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out what
it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a better
one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all of
what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge, but
I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old Sears
Dunlop isn't that far out of square.

If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor costs
as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper.

I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user
friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage, some
of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of it
and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in
moments.

I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no
plans to replace it.

Just another view.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to hear some of your input...



  #5   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer


I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used. During
the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool an
average of 50 to 200 hours.
The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust
from the surface table.
As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely
refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They advised
that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work I
do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would
be better served with a bigger machine.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
ink.net...
When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out

what
it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a

better
one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all

of
what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge,

but
I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old

Sears
Dunlop isn't that far out of square.

If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor

costs
as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper.

I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user
friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage,

some
of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of

it
and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in
moments.

I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no
plans to replace it.

Just another view.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to hear some of your input...







  #6   Report Post  
Roger Derby
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer

Amen!

For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture paste
wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It
prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron is
better -- it penetrates the pores.

The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust
and then have to clean that off before waxing.

Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the cordless
drills and the sanders.)

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...

I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used.
During
the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool
an
average of 50 to 200 hours.
The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust
from the surface table.
As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely
refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They
advised
that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of work
I
do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I would
be better served with a bigger machine.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
ink.net...
When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out

what
it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a

better
one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and all

of
what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge,

but
I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old

Sears
Dunlop isn't that far out of square.

If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor

costs
as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper.

I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite user
friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage,

some
of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid of

it
and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in
moments.

I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no
plans to replace it.

Just another view.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it would
be good to hear some of your input...







  #7   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer

I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of
Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night
produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
k.net...
Amen!

For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture

paste
wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It
prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron is
better -- it penetrates the pores.

The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust
and then have to clean that off before waxing.

Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the cordless
drills and the sanders.)

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...

I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used.
During
the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand tool
an
average of 50 to 200 hours.
The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the rust
from the surface table.
As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely
refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They
advised
that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of

work
I
do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I

would
be better served with a bigger machine.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
ink.net...
When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out

what
it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a

better
one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and

all
of
what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can judge,

but
I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old

Sears
Dunlop isn't that far out of square.

If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor

costs
as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper.

I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite

user
friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of windage,

some
of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid

of
it
and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in
moments.

I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have no
plans to replace it.

Just another view.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it

would
be good to hear some of your input...








  #8   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer

Rust Prevention

T-9, Boeshield, developed by Boeing.

Available at any good tool supplier.

Lew
  #9   Report Post  
Brian Nystrom
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer

Denis Marier wrote:
I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of
Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night
produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help.

You might want to try a product as CorrosionX, as it works really well
in harsh environments. Apply it, then throughly wipe off the surfaces
that will touch the wood.
  #10   Report Post  
Chayco
 
Posts: n/a
Default band saw and a planer

Hi Dennis,

I'm on the other coast with an unheated shop. Too much teak dust to risk
heating.
I use a Canadian product called "Fluid Film"
It's comes in a spray can and is basically lanolin.
The company is NLS products...Quebec I think.
It doesn't evaporate like other similar products.
It is also better on teak than most 'teak oils'.
...Ken


"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I'll try waxing. However, I am located at about 15 miles from the Bay of
Fundy and my garageshop is not heated. The variance between day and night
produce condensation and promote rust. Maybe hot waxing could help.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
k.net...
Amen!

For cast iron (and any bare steel) versus rust, I slather on furniture

paste
wax. Where it matters, I wipe it down to a thin coat and polish. It
prevents most rust and doesn't seem to transfer to the wood. Warm iron
is
better -- it penetrates the pores.

The only gotcha is that I usually wait until after the first coat of rust
and then have to clean that off before waxing.

Roger (The only tools that get close to 50 hours per year are the
cordless
drills and the sanders.)

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...

I would like to add that most of the time these tools are not used.
During
the course of one year most hobbyists will use their power and hand
tool
an
average of 50 to 200 hours.
The biggest problem with the cast iron machinery's is to remove the
rust
from the surface table.
As for the Delta 12½" planer I have one. Last year it was completely
refurbished under legal warranty. Delta paid the total cost. They
advised
that this planer was designed for finishing work. With the amount of

work
I
do (about 300 to 600 4/4 board foot per year) they advised me that I

would
be better served with a bigger machine.

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
ink.net...
When I have no clue as to what constitutes a "good" tool, I buy the
cheapest, or sometimes the cheapest per pound. After I've figured out
what
it won't do, and what features I really hate, then I go looking for a
better
one. Many times I find that the cheapest does 90% of what I want and

all
of
what I really need. Pride of ownership is a factor only you can
judge,
but
I often don't use my Starrett square for fear of damaging it. The old
Sears
Dunlop isn't that far out of square.

If you're in a money making business with tool depreciation and labor
costs
as significant accounting factors, then my approach isn't proper.

I'm quite happy with my Craftsman 12" bandsaw. It's quiet and quite

user
friendly. No, it will not rip straight lines without a lot of
windage,
some
of which is user skill and blade sharpening, but my wife isn't afraid

of
it
and it will whack a cardboard box or plastic milk jug down to size in
moments.

I've also gotten a lot of mileage from my Delta 12½" planer and have
no
plans to replace it.

Just another view.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"seawitch" wrote in message
ups.com...
can any one help me which planer and a bandsaw would be a good buy
without overkill , but have a good tool.So many out there and i sure
can use some good advice.I have an idea but before write a ck, it

would
be good to hear some of your input...










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