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Chris
 
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Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please

Could someone please direct me to a source for stitch / taped (or joined in
some fashion) plywood in a 17 foot length? I am currently rebuilding a badly
neglected 17’ wooden drift boat. The entire bottom and one side need to be
replaced. I live in Salem Oregon and I have not had any luck finding a
vendor.

I could possibly do the stitching and taping my self (although I have never
attempted to do so). Any recommended sites for stitch and tape information?
I would of course prefer to buy pre-assembled full sheets.

Thanks
Chris


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Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please

Eden Saw up in Port Townsend can probably scarf up a couple of pieces of
4x8 meranti and charge you about double for it but if you have a belt
sander you can make a very decent 7:1 scarf in less than 2 hours.

Lay the sheets face to face with the edges to be scarfed staggered.
Lower edge at the end of the work surface and the top 2-5/8" back.
Draw a line on the top sheet the same distance back from the edge. Load
a 36 grit belt and work and forth putting equal pressure on both edges.
YOu will have from 9 to 13 glue lines that serve as a guide. You
want them as straight and evenly spaced as possible. If they curve
outwards that area is high. Inwards it is low.

You need a flat surface to work on, belt sander with 36 and 80 grit
belts, a couple of 6-8" C-clamps, a piece of 1x4 a little over 4' long,
a scrap of poly sheet the same length and a 2x4 about 5' long. The goal
is to just feather the lower edge at exactly the same time you reach the
line drawn on the top sheet. When you get close switch to 80 grit for
final adjustment.

When finished flip the top sheet end for end and check the fit. You can
use epoxy, resorcinol or (gasp) Gorilla Glue PU. I say PU in this
situation because drift boats seldom remain in the water more than 8-10
hours at a time but it does require a lot of work to clamp the center of
the scarf with sufficient pressure.

Epoxy is simpler. Slip some poly under the joint area and coat both
surfaces of the joint with straight resin/hardner. Let it soak in for
about an hour or so. While that is soaking take the belt sander and
sand a smooth curve in edge of the 2x4 so that the middle is about 1/2"
higher than the ends. Coat one side with a thin mix if epoxy and
silica, align the joint again and use some small brads back from the
joint to keep it in place. Lay more poly sheet on the joint followed by
the 1x4. Put the 2x4 curved edge down and clamp the ends to the work
surface.

Chris wrote:
Could someone please direct me to a source for stitch / taped (or joined in
some fashion) plywood in a 17 foot length? I am currently rebuilding a badly
neglected 17’ wooden drift boat. The entire bottom and one side need to be
replaced. I live in Salem Oregon and I have not had any luck finding a
vendor.

I could possibly do the stitching and taping my self (although I have never
attempted to do so). Any recommended sites for stitch and tape information?
I would of course prefer to buy pre-assembled full sheets.

Thanks
Chris



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

  #3   Report Post  
Bob La Londe
 
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Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please

Wow! I'ld sya start with educating yourself ont he process a bit. Glen-L
and Bateau both have some useful pages that can give you the basics of
stitch and tape construction.

--
Public Fishing Forums
Fishing Link Index
www.YumaBassMan.com

webmaster
at
YumaBsssMan
dot
com
"Chris" wrote in message
news:C_wnc.59467$kh4.3683118@attbi_s52...
Could someone please direct me to a source for stitch / taped (or joined

in
some fashion) plywood in a 17 foot length? I am currently rebuilding a

badly
neglected 17’ wooden drift boat. The entire bottom and one side need to be
replaced. I live in Salem Oregon and I have not had any luck finding a
vendor.

I could possibly do the stitching and taping my self (although I have

never
attempted to do so). Any recommended sites for stitch and tape

information?
I would of course prefer to buy pre-assembled full sheets.

Thanks
Chris




  #4   Report Post  
Chris
 
Posts: n/a
Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please

Glenn, thank you for your guidance. I admit I am an “ultra-novice” in terms
of boat repair. I am a pretty good carpenter when it comes to finish work.

Your advice led me to finding websites that had graphic representations of
what you described. After seeing many alternatives, I elect to follow your
lead and go forward with the scarfing method you described.
Eden Saw in Port Townsend is not an option (although I hear they are great)
they are a few more miles than I’d rather travel at today’s gas prices.

But again, Glenn, thank you for your insight. I believe this is what
newsgroups are for.

Chris

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:i0ync.9432$Lm3.5776@lakeread04...
Eden Saw up in Port Townsend can probably scarf up a couple of pieces of
4x8 meranti and charge you about double for it but if you have a belt
sander you can make a very decent 7:1 scarf in less than 2 hours.

Lay the sheets face to face with the edges to be scarfed staggered.
Lower edge at the end of the work surface and the top 2-5/8" back.
Draw a line on the top sheet the same distance back from the edge. Load
a 36 grit belt and work and forth putting equal pressure on both edges.
YOu will have from 9 to 13 glue lines that serve as a guide. You
want them as straight and evenly spaced as possible. If they curve
outwards that area is high. Inwards it is low.

You need a flat surface to work on, belt sander with 36 and 80 grit
belts, a couple of 6-8" C-clamps, a piece of 1x4 a little over 4' long,
a scrap of poly sheet the same length and a 2x4 about 5' long. The goal
is to just feather the lower edge at exactly the same time you reach the
line drawn on the top sheet. When you get close switch to 80 grit for
final adjustment.

When finished flip the top sheet end for end and check the fit. You can
use epoxy, resorcinol or (gasp) Gorilla Glue PU. I say PU in this
situation because drift boats seldom remain in the water more than 8-10
hours at a time but it does require a lot of work to clamp the center of
the scarf with sufficient pressure.

Epoxy is simpler. Slip some poly under the joint area and coat both
surfaces of the joint with straight resin/hardner. Let it soak in for
about an hour or so. While that is soaking take the belt sander and
sand a smooth curve in edge of the 2x4 so that the middle is about 1/2"
higher than the ends. Coat one side with a thin mix if epoxy and
silica, align the joint again and use some small brads back from the
joint to keep it in place. Lay more poly sheet on the joint followed by
the 1x4. Put the 2x4 curved edge down and clamp the ends to the work
surface.

Chris wrote:
Could someone please direct me to a source for stitch / taped (or joined

in
some fashion) plywood in a 17 foot length? I am currently rebuilding a

badly
neglected 17’ wooden drift boat. The entire bottom and one side need to

be
replaced. I live in Salem Oregon and I have not had any luck finding a
vendor.

I could possibly do the stitching and taping my self (although I have

never
attempted to do so). Any recommended sites for stitch and tape

information?
I would of course prefer to buy pre-assembled full sheets.

Thanks
Chris



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com


  #5   Report Post  
Glenn Ashmore
 
Posts: n/a
Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please



Chris wrote:

Glenn, thank you for your guidance. I admit I am an “ultra-novice” in terms
of boat repair. I am a pretty good carpenter when it comes to finish work.

Your advice led me to finding websites that had graphic representations of
what you described. After seeing many alternatives, I elect to follow your
lead and go forward with the scarfing method you described.
Eden Saw in Port Townsend is not an option (although I hear they are great)
they are a few more miles than I’d rather travel at today’s gas prices.

But again, Glenn, thank you for your insight. I believe this is what
newsgroups are for.


Yes, while Port Townsend is not the end of the world, you can see it
from there. :-) I would strongly recommend a BS6566 or higher grade
Meranti for your first scarf. There must be a local source as there are
a number of McKenzie kit makers around you. 3/8" 6566 has 5 plys and
1088 has 7. More plys means it will bend to a fairer curve and makes
your guide lines closer and easier to judge straightness.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com



  #6   Report Post  
Backyard Renegade
 
Posts: n/a
Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift bo at repair help please

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:i0ync.9432$Lm3.5776@lakeread04...
Eden Saw up in Port Townsend can probably scarf up a couple of pieces of
4x8 meranti and charge you about double for it but if you have a belt
sander you can make a very decent 7:1 scarf in less than 2 hours.

Lay the sheets face to face with the edges to be scarfed staggered.
Lower edge at the end of the work surface and the top 2-5/8" back.
Draw a line on the top sheet the same distance back from the edge. Load
a 36 grit belt and work and forth putting equal pressure on both edges.
YOu will have from 9 to 13 glue lines that serve as a guide. You
want them as straight and evenly spaced as possible. If they curve
outwards that area is high. Inwards it is low.

You need a flat surface to work on, belt sander with 36 and 80 grit
belts, a couple of 6-8" C-clamps, a piece of 1x4 a little over 4' long,
a scrap of poly sheet the same length and a 2x4 about 5' long. The goal
is to just feather the lower edge at exactly the same time you reach the
line drawn on the top sheet. When you get close switch to 80 grit for
final adjustment.

When finished flip the top sheet end for end and check the fit. You can
use epoxy, resorcinol or (gasp) Gorilla Glue PU. I say PU in this
situation because drift boats seldom remain in the water more than 8-10
hours at a time but it does require a lot of work to clamp the center of
the scarf with sufficient pressure.

Epoxy is simpler. Slip some poly under the joint area and coat both
surfaces of the joint with straight resin/hardner. Let it soak in for
about an hour or so. While that is soaking take the belt sander and
sand a smooth curve in edge of the 2x4 so that the middle is about 1/2"
higher than the ends. Coat one side with a thin mix if epoxy and
silica, align the joint again and use some small brads back from the
joint to keep it in place. Lay more poly sheet on the joint followed by
the 1x4. Put the 2x4 curved edge down and clamp the ends to the work
surface.


And by all means, try this at home. It is really soooo much simpler
than it sounds, no matter how it is explained. The note Glenn made
about using the glue lines as a guide is key here, they will tell you
exactly where every pass of the belt is, this makes things pretty
simple. When joining lumber I scribble with pencil over the area to be
scarfed several times as I get closer to the finished angle, and with
epoxy, you can't miss.
I should note that I have actually built a jig for my electric planer,
but still finish up with a belt and then a hand plane. The point ot
this is, don't fret about scarfs, they are as easy as big ugly blocks.
There are three keys to making a successful scarf, they are patience,
patience, and patience... if you follow those three rules, you will
have a beautiful joint.
Try it with some scrap today when you go outside, it will ease your
mind for the day when you decide to use the technique in a build.

Scotty, the Backyard Renegade, aye, that's me over there in the
shadows...

Chris wrote:
Could someone please direct me to a source for stitch / taped (or joined in
some fashion) plywood in a 17 foot length? I am currently rebuilding a badly
neglected 17’ wooden drift boat. The entire bottom and one side need to be
replaced. I live in Salem Oregon and I have not had any luck finding a
vendor.

I could possibly do the stitching and taping my self (although I have never
attempted to do so). Any recommended sites for stitch and tape information?
I would of course prefer to buy pre-assembled full sheets.

Thanks
Chris


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Chris
 
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Default 17’ 3/8" Plywood for drift boat repair help please

Thank you all! I am looking forward to putting it into action! As soon as
the rain stops anyway.
Thanks again,
Chris


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