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  #1   Report Post  
n0sPaM
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?


I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


  #2   Report Post  
basskisser
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
  #3   Report Post  
n0sPaM
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message

ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing

comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many

Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.



  #4   Report Post  
Greg Moore
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter
cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well
vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable.

Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it
draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will probably
also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor too.

Greg Moore

"n0sPaM" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message

ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing

comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many

Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to

the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will

the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.





  #5   Report Post  
Kent Hunter-Duvar
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

I'd recommend you look for a suitable load circuit breaker, instead of a fuse.
Canadian Tire used to sell a 20A breaker that should do the job. I used them on
the batteries in a sailboat for the supply line(s) to the electrical panel. I
never had them "pop", but slept better knowing they were there. The big
advantage is no spare fuses (or lack of) to worry about. If it pops, turn off
the motor and the as long as the excess load/short is no longer there, the
breaker will reset itself.

Kent

On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:56:24 GMT, "n0sPaM" wrote:

Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
. com...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message

able.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing

comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many

Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.





  #6   Report Post  
n0sPaM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?


Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told me
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want
to spend time to do it....

N.S.


"Greg Moore" wrote in message
.. .
Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter
cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well
vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable.

Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it
draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will

probably
also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor

too.

Greg Moore

"n0sPaM" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message

ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing

comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How

many
Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to

the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will

the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.







  #7   Report Post  
Doug Kanter
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

"n0sPaM" wrote in message
news

Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told

me
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find

any
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want
to spend time to do it....

N.S.


Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to
a life vest....

Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.


  #8   Report Post  
noah
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 14:37:57 GMT, "n0sPaM"
wrote:


I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


Hmmm....I thought I posted a reply to this, but it's not there. Sorry
if this doubles-up.

If you are connecting your trolling motor directly to a battery with
the clamps that come with the trolling motor (as in a rowboat or other
boat where the trolling motor clamps to the transom), you do not
"need" a fuse. If you are using "built in" concealed boat wiring, you
*need* a fuse.

Having said that, a properly sized fuse is never a bad idea, and in
the event of a problem, could save your trolling motor or prevent a
fire. I have used "clamp on" motors for years without fusing. Now
that my toys cost more, and I am a little older and more careful, I
fuse them.

Happy boating.
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats
  #9   Report Post  
Lloyd Sumpter
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote:

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.


My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.


A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.

The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.

If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.

Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.

  #10   Report Post  
Ron Thornton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

The first line of defence for electrical wirings should be the
installation. Don't have wires that are permanent lying around lose and
unprotected that can get nicked, cut or worn in the normal operation of
the boat. I try to run power cables in plastic electrical conduit
=B9=82=B2=82=B3 where I can and wire tie out of harms way where I can't. =


In the case of a trolling motor that is installed in the open, the
cables should be lashed out of the way. They should not be laying on
the deck, for instance, where you could drop a portable steel gas tank
on them.

As someone pointed out, "most"=A0 devices will open up (but don't bet on
it) under the strain of the hundreds of amps a battery will deliver when
short circuited. If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.
They are rated around 100 to 300 amps and will blow if the cable is
shorted and will not blow from the normal load.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Ron

Notes

1. Power cable in conduit has to be over rated, depending on the number
of conductors, because of reduced heat loss. Consult an electrician.

2. Cables are rated for max load at a max surrounding temperature
(usually 60=B0 or 90=B0 C). A cable rated for 100 amps will carry many
times that before it fails.

3. Marine cable is available with a SS braid for armoring. Its easier
to install than conduit. Don't remember what the standards say for
shipboard but I prefer National Electric Code rated conduit.

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